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  2. I think I tried what you're talking about (shown on the left) this did make the drawer slide better however doesn't look that great, maybe if I cut it back a little so it's not flush.. When it was to tight at the very end I was trying to figure out a technique to show where it was jamming. Tried putting chalk on one side in hopes it would run the highs spot but that didn't work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Anyone know anything about these bandsaws? I've been looking for a table top bandsaw that also has a deep throat and found this Inca Bandsaw 342.186 with 33 blades for 650$. I had been looking into the laguna 14-12 but a deeper thrust would be great for my line of work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I ended up sanding down a few spots and restaining. I got it looking a bit better. Here it is before the 1st poly coat. Now for the real hard part, having my wife pick out the handles
  5. I'm just a few hours NW of you, feel free to sharpen everything in my shop!
  6. Um...Yes. Unfortunately I can imagine anything that my silly mind can think up.
  7. Today
  8. I use a small 16" wide base cabinet that I made with a formica top and just wipe up the water when done. for flattening my waterstones stones I put a piece of 80 grit on a 5" x 12" piece of granite that I got for free out of a counter top maker's dumpster.
  9. Sometimes there is just a lot of natural stress in some boards and they will curl and maybe try to bind up your saw blade. I don't have a could solution other than to try a different board. I would keep a couple of wedges or a flat screwdriver handy to jamb into the the saw kerf behind the blade to keep the kerf from closing up while you complete the cut. Be careful reaching across the blade.
  10. I agree with coop, Your bench will be vary labor intensive if you don't have a way to plane the boards to thickness. I made a similar bench about 3 years ago. It was a fun project. I used spaced slats around the bottom where your pic shows boards close together. I used mortise and tenon for all the joints. Mine was made of reclaimed redwood - very pretty but very soft - not easy to work with. Have fun.
  11. I am not sure why you would use 2 layers of veneer. I don't think that you will need to veneer the back of the MDF. If you are worried abouta difference in moisture cause warping, I would consider applying a coat or 2 of you finish to the back or underside of the MDF. I have use a hot iron to veneer a curved table apron (about 3" wide). My veneer was 1/8" thick. I applied 3 coats of Titebond original glue to each surface letting it dry between coats. Be aware that the water in the glue will make the veneer curl. The thinner the veneer the more it curls. That was manageable for my 3" wide aprons but could be a problem required extra hands for a large flat veneer. BTW the veneered aprons are holding up very well. Also, the veneer will not stick to the MDF until the heat is applied and starts to cool, so you you have more adjustment than contact cement which has none. By all means, practice first. md
  12. That's a great idea ! I usually don't use vertical feather boards but I have a featherboard that rides in the miter slots usually I'll use it without it for now and if I have to figure out the rear clamp situation later I will Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. If you need a feather board to hold down off the fence put a clamp on the back end of the fence. Check the distance to the miter slots front and rear before you rip to avoid the clamp pushing the fence out of alignment.
  14. Wow, that is generous! As we get closer to the trip I'll touch base and see if we can work it out. Thanks a lot!
  15. OP, no disrespect, but without a planer and jointer, wood species may be your least concern. Your work bench turned out very well, but you used deminisionaled lumber. How will you get the backslats thinner than the frame, etc.? Not to discourage you, just wondering?
  16. Check the moisture content. If you don't have a moisture meter weigh one of the curled strips on an accurate digital scale, record it and weigh every few days. If the weight keeps lessening wait until the weigh stabilizes for a few weeks. If the weight is stable then the wood either grew with tension in it or was poorly dried.
  17. All good info. You can also fumigate the white oak with ammonia to get that color, I believe that is the traditional method. If white oak is super expensive in your area, I think African Mahogany or sapele would both be reasonable alternatives that you might be able to find for better prices. Either one has color variation but can be found with darker browns near that color (or will age to near that color given some time in the sun). The lower section looks to me to be shiplapped, and each board is most likely sitting in a groove in the rails above and below them. Google "ship lap cabinet back" or similar things and watch a youtube video or 2 for more info if you want.
  18. If that's your first cabinet project then the bench won't be hard. It's a simple enough design but will challenge you some. Quarter sawn oak is a classic choice and very strong. You'll learn a lot on that project. If you make and post a project journal you'll get great feedback and advice from people who know their stuff. Oh, and always buy 20% more lumber than you need in case you make a mistake. Keep decent size offcuts for smaller projects.
  19. I have not. I've seen that before and it's a hoot, but true! Thanks. Can you imagine a good lookIng lady telling you that you don't have enough board ft.?
  20. Sometimes you get lumber which will cup like a son-of-a-gun when it is cut. Try cutting into another board, if you have one.
  21. I did notice a tiny bit of lift when I initially clamp down but it goes right back I couldn't use downward clamping force off the fence for sure without something back there I wanted a vega originally They just were oversold and overpriced when I was purchasing a fence originally Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Have you ever been to Eric.'s lumber yard Coop? I imagine it's a lot like this. http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/a-lumbering-feeling/
  23. I have rosewood planks. I'm starting a project that required 1/2" square strips. Immediately after I cut it, they curl so bad that it starts to bind the saw blade. This never happened to me with softer woods but my project requires hardwood. Does anyone know what the problem is?
  24. It's a shame that it's that way and I have the same delima. I have a fire and safety company with customers that range from very large to very small and we treat each like they are the most important customer we have. It seems that @Eric.retreat/side job is definately the exception in wood suppliers.
  25. Only if you can find a plug like that for a 30 amp outlet. Different amp ratings of 240 outlets have different blade shapes and positions. I belive there are more than one plug shape for 30 amp dryers, age and code requirements can vary.
  26. Well. . . I just learned something. . . My dust collector runs about 84 db with the cabinet door closed or open. It was originally used for my shop-vac which quieted it down to around 60 db... however with a canister filter and induction blower all the sound comes from the filter... back to the drawing board. Thanks. I decided some tools I never wanted to buy again. Plus, I might as well eliminate one small hazard out of the hundreds in the shop. [emoji23]
  27. I know that it can really feel this way. But most times it is just a matter of them finding out that you are serious about purchasing lumber. Asking questions, restacking lumber properly when you are done and things like this go a long ways to letting them know you are a serious customer. A lot of times they seem of putting because they are busy with contractors and unless they see you are not just a looky loo trying to find something for nothing, they have other things to do. I thought my place was like this but now I am on a first name basis and they've even put me on their contractor data base for pricing. It didn't happen over night its a process.
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