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About jmaichel

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 04/10/1978

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  • Location
    Kailua, HI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, design and maybe one day home building.

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  1. I was just more or less sharing my experience when setting up my shop(s) and how I focused more on the tools than what I wanted to build. Eric was right when he said that it had nothing to do with Festool itself but more with how I wanted to build furniture after it was all said and done. I failed to mention one Festool tool that actually saw a lot of use and that was my ETS 150/3. Last lesson, compromise is not always a good thing when setting up shop. This is a hobby, like your RC hobby if you think you are going to be happier with one tool over another than don't settle. The one exception is if your budget is really really limited and you won't be able squeeze any more money out anytime soon, compromises might have to be made. But than again to quote Eric, "you might want to find another hobby."
  2. Correct! To be honest I would have been happy going with a few better quality core power tools right off the bat. My switch to hand tools was mostly driven by my move to HI and not wanting to drag them with me. Although, I am really enjoying using hand tools. When I make my final move and get settled I will be adding a TS, Jointer, and bandsaw. Somethings I just do not enjoy doing by hand.
  3. That is not exactly what I said. I know that Festool is not only for sheet goods and believe me I did use them on a number of projects and took advantage of different setups using QWAS dogs and removing the rail on my MFT. I am not blaming Festool! I am blaming myself for not taking the time to think about my future projects and how I wanted approach these projects. You have to admit that there was/is a lot of Festool hype and for some it does not meet expectations. I am only saying some of the Core tools would have been a better first choice.
  4. Sure, I will do my best to try and explain what happened with me. First off, I think that the I was lured in by the "sexiness" of Festool, and those who have owned Festool or have been around long enough know what I am talking about. I really did not really take the time to think about the type of projects I wanted to build and the tools that I needed to own. I wanted to build my shop around Festool stuff and build projects based on my tooling. This is what I started with a TS75, MFT 3, CT26, OF1400, CXS, Domino, and a bunch of accessories including extra guide rails. I know there was a few more items in there but I can't remember what they were. Now here was the problem, I really had very little interest in building projects out of sheets goods, nor did I have any real interest in using a ton of loose tenon joinery (Dominos) in my projects. Around a year later I got rid of the MFT/3 and I started buying a few more hand tools. When I found out I was moving to HI, I sold every power tool that I owned. Over the last year and a half I have been buying hand tools and now have a very respectable hand tool kit. I did add a 735, Dewalt cordless miter saw and circ saw, and a portable table saw. These power tools are really only for non furniture projects or when I need to rip multiple small pieces of the same width but really they see very little use. When I finally move again and settle down, these tools will be relegated to shed and used for outdoor and indoor projects. I was so focused on the tools and not on what projects I wanted to build and what I wanted my shop flow to be. I wanted to instead show off my shinny new green loot, which led to instant gratification but long term resentment. The cost of entry for Festool is steep and depending on what projects you want to build, the ROI can be relatively low. The only tool that I did not totally regret owning was the OF1400, although the TS75 saw some use, the price of the the TS75, OF1400, CT26, and accessories was a big chunk of my budget and not worth what I got out of them. If you are setting up a shop on a budget, most Festool tools should not be part of your tool list unless you are planning to build a lot projects out of sheet goods or have a very limited space. If I had to do it all over again, I would have went with the 1.75 HP (only 110V), a PM 6" jointer, Dewalt 735, Dust Collection, and some accessories. If I had room left in the budget, I would have probably added a router table. I already owned a bandsaw (Grizzly 0555). Its surprising how much you can get done with this core set of tools. There may be several people on this forum that might disagree with me and that's fine, this is just my point of view based on my experiences. Hope this makes sense.
  5. I am going to make a couple assumptions here. It does not sound like you are going to be short on space or money in the future. If 6K was all you had to spend for everything and no other money could be spent on tools in the future, recommendations would be very different. This does not seem to be the case for you. The SawStop seems like a done deal, if I was in your shoes I would make the same choice. I would stay away from CL, although there are some deals to be had, it mostly ends up being a frustrating experience. The SawStop does eat up a good amount of your initial budget, which does not leave a lot left over buying several more machines (not including DC in initial budget). I would skip the lunchbox planers and just spend the money on a nice 15" Planer. I have heard good things about the Grizzly Planers and if I was going to try and get the most bang from my buck, this is where I would do it. I also don't think you need a bandsaw right off the bat but if you do, the 1412 seems like the way to go and then you can add a bigger resew bandsaw a few years down the road. You could go with a router table instead but I have never owned one, so I can't offer you any good suggestions there. I would try to leave $500-$700 for accessories and clamps (not sure what your current clamp situation is like). I think you will find yourself pretty busy for the first year just working on your shop setup and doing shop projects. At this point you will have a pretty good idea of what you want to add next. About 4 years ago, I was in a somewhat similar situation. I had around 6K to spend on tools, I wanted a SS but did not want to eat up to much of my budget. I went a different route and ended up not being very happy. Fast Forward 3 years, I moved to HI and sold all of my power tools because they were not worth moving. If I had the SawStop, I probably would have kept it. I use mostly hand tools these days, whenever I can find time to get into my small shop. I also got deep into Festool when I was setting up my shop, which I also later regretted. Good luck and keep us posted.
  6. No I have not but I will. Thanks!
  7. I think you would do just fine with the 1000/8000 Combo stone, That is what I use and like. One day I will add Sharpton's but for now that combo stone is does the job. If you like the Veritas Chisels than I would just add one or two more of those. Traditional vs Japanese is a matter of personal opinion. If you have one already I would mess around with that a little more. If you decide you don't like it than you can think about ordering a traditional saw. I would say for now to stay within your $400 budget. The Ohishi combo stone, the DuoSharp, LN Block Plane, and maybe one two more chisels would serve you pretty well for the next few months.
  8. I see your point but I think for just trying to get your feet wet with hand tools a high quality half inch chisel is pretty versatile, at least for the first few months.
  9. As much as I like using hand tools, it would be a lot of grunt work. The setup took some time but its not as bad as it looks. I did you my Jack plane to hit take off some of the really high spots in order for it to fit through the planer.
  10. I think Tom and Derek said it best. I have to agree with Tom that sharpening is probably the most important and most overlooked purchase when getting into hand tools. At first there is very little reason to buy more than one chisel. You would be surprised at much work you can do with a 1/2" chisel. I have a set of 4 Narex chisels and 3 LN chisels. The Narex are fine but are relegated now to misc shop tasks. Most woodworkers I know have at least two sets of chisels anyway. If you went with Narex, I would just go with the set of 4. I prefer the LN's over the LV but they are both very good. I have a LN LA jack plane and though I use it, I wish I had gone a different route when first getting into hand tools. It sounds like you are wanting to learn how to wood work with hand tools and not just supplement your power tool kit. It is also not a bad idea to add a saw to your initial kit. There is more to hand tools besides planing and chiseling. This is what I would start with: Ohishi Combo Sharpening Stone I have this stone and think it is pretty darn good for the price, but a little soft. Side Clamp Honing Guide This is what I started with and I don't think you can spend $8 any better. DuoSharp Stone You have to be able to flatten your sharpening stones. LN No. 60 1/2" Block Plane You can actually do a lot with this little plane LN 1/2" Chisel This will get you started and should keep you right around $400 If you wanted to spend a little more, I would add these two: Veritas Router Plane Veritas Dovetail Saw You could also swap out the LN 1/2" chisel for a set of 4 Narex chisels if you are going to place an order from LV.
  11. Not a big update but I did manage to plane one of the five sections on Sunday. This is going to be a long and slow process. Setup took much longer than I thought. I had to use a lot of shims and found myself shimming in between passes. This board is heavy and I had to make sure it was well supported on both the indeed and outfeed. I did get a little bit of snipe but overall I am happy with how it turned out. The picture is the board prior to planing. I hope to get at least one more section planed today if I can find time after work. I did build this bad boy over the weekend.
  12. How long are the boards you are trying to mill? I still think you should use a piece of 3/4" plywood for a sled. Depending on how long you need, I am pretty sure you could find a piece of 3/4" ply that is pretty flat.
  13. You want it to be as close to dead flat as possible. You can also laminate two pieces of 3/4" plywood using glue and screws. I would recommend using a flat surface like a workbench or outfeed table if you have either of those. After glue and screwing together, you will want to add as much weight has you can to laminated pieces help get them as flat as possible. Another option is make a torsion box for a sled. I just think this might be overkill but if you have trouble finding flat plywood this might be your best bet.
  14. Like Kev said, don't over complicate it. I have used sleds in the past and kept it really simple. I think the magazines over complicate to help justify their existence. I will make sure I take a couple pictures along the way. I am going to HD this weekend to buy a sheet of BB plywood for the sled. When I am done with it I will use the remaining pieces and the sled to build a cheap bookcase to store a couple Lego builds that my wife won't let me put on the bookcase in the living room.
  15. I think you might be right Kev! I knew I would get some slippage and actually have most of my boards 1 1/2 -2" wider than the finished width of 4". I think my neighbor has a biscuit joiner that I can use, if not one of the base woodshops has a domino that I can use. If only they had a jointer. Thats not a bad idea and I will probably go this route during my next stage of glue ups. The problem with this idea at this stage is that I only jointed once edge of each of the 14 boards. I saw know point in dimension each board when I knew I was going to have to run it through the planer. There is a significant variance in width in each of the 5 sections. During this next round of planing I am going to bring each section to a thickness of around 4 1/2".