For your very first handsaw it's not a bad idea to go to local big box store and pick up a hardpoint saw for around $20. They are very sharp and actually work a lot better than you would expect. Use the saw for rough breakdown of stock for your projects. If you like using the handsaw than think about getting a rip and crosscut saw. It's always handy to have a Hardpoint, they are great for breaking down 2x4's or anything that you don't want your nice saws to touch.
Thanks for the replies. I have always been curious if anyone has a preference. I know a lot of folks on this forum have a good mix of hand tools and power tools and was curious to see if there was one method that was preferred over another. Myself, I enjoy using hand tools but have always sanded either by hand or with an ROS before applying finish.
I thought so. Do you like it? do you also have a traditional BD No 4? I am thinking about adding a smoother. The one real big issue that I have is that I don't have a bench nor do I intend to build a bench anytime soon, so I might just have to go with an ROS. All my joinery can be done at the joinery bench but planing tasks are little more difficult.
I am sure you are right on the higher angle, I just don't think you have to have one. Although I have never tried using a higher angle so I could be missing out on something. I think I now have to order another blade to see if I have been missing out! Thanks Eric.
Back to the OP, I have used only a LA Jack, Block Plane, and Router Plane to build a few things by hand. These tools worked out just fine. I recently added a LV Skew Rabbet Plane, and LV Plow Plane. I think joinery planes are a heck of a lot more useful than bench planes.
If you already have a block plane I am not sure that the Rabbeting block plane is really necessary.
LA Jack, is a great plane and has many uses. I disagree with Eric a little though. I only have one blade and have never had any issues with handling end grain and long grain. The caveat is that I really don't work with exotics with crazy grain patterns and higher Janka hardness. If you do you then I could see the benefits of another blade.
I would go with a 3/8" and 5/16" instead of a 1/4" and 1/2"
I would also advise that you go with the LV Skew Rabbet plane (way more useful for making rabbets)
Sorry, I was under the impression that the handles in your original post were the only hand tools that you had. I would still recommend the LN Low Angle Jack and LN Rabbet Block Plane and would also get another saw instead of another plane. LV has some nice saw options for a good price. I would get the LV Tenon (Rip) and LV Carcass Saw (crosscut), then add a $15 BORG hardpoint saw and you have enough hand tools to start building plenty of projects. If you want to be able to make rabbets you can set up a fence and use the LN Rabbet Block plane to make them.
S-Mack is right if there are North American options that is was I go for as well.
I would actually go a little bit different route. Personally I think shoulder planes are somewhat useless. A #4 is okay but really if have a good sander I would wait on a smoother.
If you set on LV I would go with the following:
LV low angle block plane
LV Low Angle Jack plane
LV dovetail saw
a couple of the PM V11 Bench chisels. (does not have to be an entire set, just get two)
If it were me and someone here is $700 buy some nice hand tools for me:
LN- Low Angle Jack Plane ( I have it and love it. So do several others. I have also used LV version and did not like the tote on it nearly as much as I like the tote on the LN)
LN- Rabbet Block Plane ( the versatility of this plane goes far beyond the uses of a normal LA block plane)
Two really nice chisels (I would go with 1/4" and 1/2" either LN or LV. I have LN's and I like the way they feel in my hand more than the LV PM V11's did. I also have a small set of the Narex Bench Chisels. They are okay but I would much rather have two or even one really nice chisels instead of the Narex set.)
LV dovetail saw (for the price it can't be beat. Again I have one and love it!)
Sharpening Medium (I would personally go with a combination stone to start out and then add a nice polishing stone later. I would also go with a simple wheel honing guide. I had the MKII and it was not very impressive.)