Jim Harvey

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About Jim Harvey

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    Hand and Power tools

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  1. K Cooper - The spacer was a key item in speeding up the cut process Chet K - I made 3 prototypes figuring out how, 14 in the next batch from poplar and pine out of the Menards cutoff bin, 8 slightly smaller in cherry, another batch in progress now in cherry. I gave the 3 protos and one of the cherrys to my family for Christmas last weekend. I'm putting Watco on three of the cherry just to see what they look like and no Im not sending any to California.
  2. Our local woodworkers club makes toys every year to give away to disadvantaged families, thousands of toys over the years. But mostly I see boy toys, things with wheels. Boxes though, appeal to both boys and girls. There was an episode of "The Woodwright's Shop" this last season on making small sliding lid boxes. That started me thinking, if I followed Roy's jig ideas with a table saw, how fast could I produce boxes? I didn't use much of Roy's process but with the jigs I made, I can crank out a dozen a day and they look pretty good. https://wb8nbs.wordpress.com/2016/12/22/sliding-lid-pencil-boxes/
  3. It is an early Stanly 113. I have one just like it. It is missing blade and cap obviously, the knob on the front and handle at rear which Blood and Gore says is frequently broken. Mine is also missing rear handle but looks like yours has the broken casting filed smooth. You can still use it if you wear a glove on right hand. Yours has no rust so is worth keeping if you can find the blade parts.
  4. Scioto was a second brand of Ohio Tool Works. They used wood with slight defects and sold them cheaper. Supposedly Scioto had the same quality iron as Ohio Tools.
  5. Research "Keen Kutter" and "Simmons Hardware".
  6. I'm using a 30 degree primary bevel and hone at 35 degrees. Prying chips out of a mortise will break a 25 degree point..
  7. That would be a great Apron Pocket plane.
  8. I have a 5 1/4, use it quite a bit. It's a little easier to handle than a full size 5. Uses the same blade as a 3.
  9. I have a six and a 606. I mainly use them on a shooting board, sometimes in flattening a board. It's nice to match the length of the plane to the size of the board you are working but as pointed out, a six (and an eight) would be the lowest priority to acquire. The two larger planes I use the most are a 5 1/4 and a 4 1/2. A five is probably the most versatile. Buy an after market blade and chipbreaker for it, grind that blade with a slight smoothing camber, grind the original blade to a more agressive curve to remove wood quickly.
  10. I came up with an easy way to sharpen a router plane cutter. Pictures at https://wb8nbs.wordpress.com/2016/08/08/how-to-sharpen-a-router-plane-blade/
  11. Find a pre-WW2 Stanley #4 or #5, rehab it, put in a hock blade and chipbreaker. It will do you for a long time. Don't forget to add in the expense of sharpening supplies to your budget.
  12. It would probably be just as easy to clamp a fence to the plane for the last few passes. Your jig has to clamp the stock somehow and a long jig will move with moisture changes. I did something like this on a small scale to flatten and thickness spline material. See Secret Weapon #2 and #3 in https://wb8nbs.wordpress.com/2014/09/02/the-eleven-grooved-box-tools-update/
  13. The best way is to flatten with a wide diamond stone. A three inch wide coarse or extra coarse diamond stone costs $50-$60 and is used to establish or correct blade bevels before honing on the water stones so is very useful anyway if you are buying used tools. Or you can buy a Norton flattening stone for <$30, they are made of very coarse hard carbide and will stay reference flat for a long time. The cheapskate method is using a sheet of the coarsest wet sandpaper you can find on a sheet of flat ground glass. If you can't find a piece of flat glass, use melemine coated shelving, it's usually very flat and is what Frank Klaus uses in his sharpening video. It helps if you develop a method of sharpening that minimizes uneven wear on the water stone. I use a guide and rub 50 strokes from stone center to just off the far edge, then rotate the stone 180 degrees and repeat. I'm trying to avoid the overused spot in the exact center of the stone. Get a small Nagura stone and rub around the edges when you start. That cuts down the high spots and develops an initial grit slurry which speeds things up.
  14. I've derusted a lot of them using electrolysis. If you already own a car batter charger it's the cheapest. Google "electrolysis rust removal" theres lots of papers on it. Make the tank with a 5 gallon bucket, a couple strips of iron (cut up a tin can) and a handful of washing soda you can get at the grocery store. If theres rust pitting, don't worry about it. The only place that matters at all is on the back of the blade and on the front of the mouth. I clean the wood bits with paint thinner and Murphys oil soap. Sometimes have to sand the old varnish. 3 patent dates means pre-WW1 and it will have rosewood handles they will look good with just some BLO or Watco natural.
  15. For cheap, you can do a lot with one inch wide strips torn from a broken belt sander belt.