wtnhighlander

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    TN
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  1. Do the two-cut option. IMO, 4 sided tapers would look better as turned.
  2. Lester, those really aren't bad, especially for a first try. In fact, those are just loose enough to practice some 'adjust, repair, & recover' tecniques on. A little work could make them seamless!
  3. Chet, maybe you could alleviate a small part of the OCD anxiety by using Torx (star) head screws to hide the fact they aren't 'clocked'!
  4. Hi Nick, good to have you join! Very nice job with post and sign. That sapele is beautiful wood!
  5. Wipe on poly is a good choice. I like to use a t-shirt rag, thoroughly dampened with mineral spirits, as an applicator. This helps the finish flow on evenly, and helps prevent streaks from the finish drying in the rag as you go.
  6. If the joint that concerns you is the rail to leg joint, and the rails are the correct length for a butt joint, you can use something called a 'loose tenon'. Use a router, drill, chisels, or combination of those, to excavate a cavity in the end grain of the rails, into which you would glue a block of wood to form the tenon. Then make a mortise in the leg, and you are good to go. If you have those bolt and barrel nut fasteners sold at places like Rockler, this will make a very strong joint.
  7. Yep, signatures do not show in Tapatalk.
  8. That makes my brain hurt. I can't wait to see how you pull it off, I think its going to be really sharp!
  9. Those should work out if you step through the abrasives in smaller increments.
  10. Or at least it goes from a full-on UFC style fight to a fencing match. [emoji3]
  11. I'll take a guess, and say that water is absorbed by the cells of the wood, because that is how the wood fibers work in the living tree. Alcohol and oil aren't naturally absorbed, and only fill the inter-cellular space, therefore don't swell the fibers and cause 'raised grain'. That is all conjecture on my part, I really have no idea.
  12. I don't recall if it was mentioned, but a wash coat of shellac provides a great base for paint, and prevents further raised grain. Its also a bit easier to sand smooth. The smoother the surface, the better your paint will look.
  13. You coukd always get funky with it and fill with that flourescent epoxy mentioned in another recent thread! Now that I think of it, a molten pewter filler might have a striking effect, without being garish. Brass filings and CA glue, ala @duckisser, would be a nice choice, too.
  14. Ronn, the proportions look pretty good to me..I think I understand the curved leg feature now. The initial view of the underside was throwing me off with the rectangular leg cross section rotating 90* at each corner. I assume that allows for the thickness of the S-curved piece?
  15. Well, hurry up and make something we can see, I can't wait! 😁