Mike.

Supporter
  • Content count

    5,527
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2,749 Excellent

3 Followers

About Mike.

  • Rank
    Master Poster
  • Birthday 07/06/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Glenview, IL
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building furniture for my house. High quality but not too fussy. Stuff I can knock out in a weekend or two.

Recent Profile Visitors

7,397 profile views
  1. Are they the same ones that they sell on the front page of the very super cool tools website? if so, I assume the answer is yes. http://vsctools.com/
  2. Were the cracks there before assembly? Or did it crack after you attached it?
  3. 2 or 3 coats of minway wipe on poly will not coat the wood in thick plastic and won't look that different an oil/wax finish. I have used both and think the wipe on poly actually makes the wood look nicer. Oil/wax finishes don't do as nice of a job highlighting figure or chatoyency.
  4. There is no reason to fill the pores. Just sand to a high grit (320) and it will be smooth enough to use as an office table. Wipe on about 3 coats of Minwax wipe on Poly or General Finishes Arm R Seal and you will have a nice, natural, durable finish. Danish Oil is not a good choice. it gives you almost 0 protection. The first time you spill coffee on it you will be mad.
  5. It is about 2 years and 4 months old, so it has some warranty time left and I understand Festool is flexible on machines that are slightly out of warranty. It was recently cleaned and serviced by Festool. Good condition. Some light scratches on plastic housing. I build stuff. That is what happens. My Festool is not for show. I will include the original systainer and a brand new, unused plug it cord. I am selling because I upgraded to the brushless 150/3. Retail price is $360. It is yours for $275 + shipping. I will include 2 festool discs each of 80/100/120/150/180/222. I could probably get more on ebay, but I'd rather sell to a woodtalk member. Don't make me post it on the guild FB page I will post some pictures tonight.
  6. The people don't both me in big cities. It is like they are there but not there - the funny thing is the larger the city, the more anonymous you become. When I lived in NYC I didn't know any of my neighbors by name. When I lived in downtown Chicago I knew maybe one person on the floor of my condo building. In the suburbs everyone knows way too much about me and my personal life. There is one person in every subdivision whose full time hobby is spying on the neighbors and spreading gossip. Drives me insane.
  7. Makes me want to move back into the city. Seriously. I'd give up my shop to get out of the suburbs and back into the city. She is living in a typical Chicago two or three flat. One building, with one apartment taking up each floor. The bay window and exposed brick are very common in pre-WW2 chicago buildings. I lived in similar places. It is nice that she has a garage. It is not that common to have a garage in the city, especially with multi dwelling units like that. If she rents, often times the landlord will use the entire garage for themselves. If the building has been converted to condos (where each owner owns their floor), often times the entire garage will be owned by one person, whoever the high bidder was when the building was converted from a rental to a condo. Many of the garages were also converted to rental apartments. Generally speaking, it is not legal to do so anymore, but plenty are grandfathered in.
  8. My best guess is wax residue. I'd wipe Naptha and let dry. It will help remove any of the wax. Don't worry, all the solvents will evaporate. commercial waxes usually contain naptha or a similar solvent. Then I'd clean with TSP (tri sodium phospate) and let it dry. Then I'd clean with plenty of clear water and let it dry. Then I'd apply mineral oil (no wax) and call it a day. If you want to keep chemicals away from the board (which I kind of understand, although the things I listed are probably safer than a happy meal from McDonalds), scrub it thoroughly with hot water and a dish soap like dawn. then rinse it thoroughly with clean water and apply mineral oil.
  9. There is most certainly a difference, but the muppets at Home Depot don't even seem to know that. Usually trim paints are labelled "enamel". Most of us think oil based when we see enamel, but newer formulations are water clean up. Ben Moore's trim paint is called "advance". It makes a huge difference. I haven't used that formulation yet, but have used their older water based enamel. It levels like oil paint and dries harder so it can be sanded.
  10. Thanks for all the compliments guys. It literally took me 1.5 hrs start to finish so I feel a little guilty accepting any praise. The mitered mahogany was a PITA, but other than that it is a pretty easy project. I hate making miters so any time I make a frame I find another way. In this case the mahogany is so small you can cut it all a tiny bit long and spring it into place. Gappy miters are the worst. Richard - the butternut absolutely fuzzes up, but it is so soft it sands really quickly. Ross - the actually carving is about 25% of that print. He carves it into a linoleum block, covers with ink and presses onto paper. He then scans the paper print and digitally reproduces it into a repeating pattern. So yes, it is a lot of work, but not as much as you would think. He favors those abstract designs, but every once in a while he will use the same process to make a tree or flower and it looks really cool. Butternut ages to a nice color. It starts out a light tan, but in a year or so it will be a medium caramel color that I have not seen in any other species.
  11. Wouldnt a pillowcase and twine be cheaper?
  12. A gift for my brother in law. He carves these lithos and has them screened into fabric. The butternut frame is joined with dominoes. The genuine molding is mitered. Finish is oil and wax (actually neutral shoe polish with a bit of brown).
  13. Then I think there is something wrong with your jointer I never go straight from the saw to glue. I lay out my boards after ripping to width, flip them around the get a good grain match, and then rejoint. When I rejoint, I make sure to alternate which face goes against the fence so I can compensate if my fence is slightly out of square.
  14. Allan, who owns VSCT, is a very super cool guy. I love my fence. It gives you so many ways to use auxiliary fences. Festool clamps fit into the extrusion which is nice. Mine does double duty as my tablesaw and router fence (my router is in the wing). My next shop project is to build a router side attachment with a micro adjust. I absolutely hate building jigs and shop projects. The VSCT makes it easy to knock together something quickly so you don't need to spend a day on a jig or auxiliary fence. I did have to build the bies style rails using angle iron and square tubing. I hate metal work so that was a drag. I really don't like contaminating my shop with cutting oil and metal shavings, but in this case I had no choice. It took me about a day to build the rails.
  15. I never try to get a glue ready joint of the tablesaw. You will get much better results milling on your boards to width, laying out your panel, and then jointing them on your jointer right be before you glue.