Ronn W

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Ronn W last won the day on January 2

Ronn W had the most liked content!

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About Ronn W

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    Journeyman Poster
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  • Location
    Eden Prairie, Minnesota
  • Woodworking Interests
    Any - Every project includes a new technique. Started with mission and arts and crafts projects but am expanding. Also enjoy inlay work and scroll work.

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  1. Thanks for the alignment suggestions, I did try to straighten the lines for about 1/4" where the corners will be to allow for the the saw kerf. I'll just have to see how it turns out. I won't be able to do much alignment adjusting during gluing since I routed a dado for the box bottom already. That may have been a mistake. I am apprehensive about getting the miters right to begin with so I do have a plan B if the corners go south on me. Waiting for my dye to arrive so I can do some samples.
  2. Nice work. I like it.
  3. Looking good. I like it.
  4. For your particular project the .01" is nothing, if you are mitering a picture frame or table top frame it is significant. As the other said. Shoot for perfect but learn to recognized when "almost perfect" is good enough. Welcome to the forum.
  5. Every project has to have a new technique or something to be learned. So.........The first picture shows a board that will be cross cut into 4 pieces, to form the sides of a box. The corners will be mitered. The pencil show where the cross cuts will be. The wavy groove is 1/16" wide and 1/16" deep and will be inlaid with a ribbon represented by the little piece of mahogany. The ribbon is a boundary between 2 different finishes: a colored dye below the ribbon and a natural finish above. The dye while be applied before the ribbon is inserted so that the 1/16" groove will prevent the dye from seeping into the natural finish area. I want the ribbon to look like it is continuous around the box. The ribbon will be dyed black prior to being installed. If you were doing this would you 1) Dye the lower portion then install ribbon, then cut the miters, then assemble the sides or: 2) cut the miters, assemble the sides, dye the lower portion and then install the ribbon: 3) other. I think that the corners where the ribbons meet will be be easier to make look good if I use #1, but I would appreciate your ideas and suggestions. Hijack my own thread: This was my first time using my new set of bushings for the router. I wanted to use a standardized set of bushings and not the very expensive set of Triton bushings. But I could not find a sub base that would fit the Triton and that would accept the bushings and lock nut. So I bought a scrap of 1/4 plastic poly carbonate and made my own sub-base from scratch. That was a learning experience all by itself. [ Hint: Drill the 4 mounting bolt holes first and then use a pointed router bit in the collet to mark for the center bushing hole.] It came out pretty well and the bit is dead center in the bushing. My only regret is that I should have used clear plastic so I can see what I am doing. Live and learn.
  6. OK. I lied a little. The seats slats are attached with countersunk and plugged screws The rest Is M&T. in the case for the vertical slats that entire slat is the tenon and fits into the mortise.
  7. I use a small 16" wide base cabinet that I made with a formica top and just wipe up the water when done. for flattening my waterstones stones I put a piece of 80 grit on a 5" x 12" piece of granite that I got for free out of a counter top maker's dumpster.
  8. Sometimes there is just a lot of natural stress in some boards and they will curl and maybe try to bind up your saw blade. I don't have a could solution other than to try a different board. I would keep a couple of wedges or a flat screwdriver handy to jamb into the the saw kerf behind the blade to keep the kerf from closing up while you complete the cut. Be careful reaching across the blade.
  9. I agree with coop, Your bench will be vary labor intensive if you don't have a way to plane the boards to thickness. I made a similar bench about 3 years ago. It was a fun project. I used spaced slats around the bottom where your pic shows boards close together. I used mortise and tenon for all the joints. Mine was made of reclaimed redwood - very pretty but very soft - not easy to work with. Have fun.
  10. I am not sure why you would use 2 layers of veneer. I don't think that you will need to veneer the back of the MDF. If you are worried abouta difference in moisture cause warping, I would consider applying a coat or 2 of you finish to the back or underside of the MDF. I have use a hot iron to veneer a curved table apron (about 3" wide). My veneer was 1/8" thick. I applied 3 coats of Titebond original glue to each surface letting it dry between coats. Be aware that the water in the glue will make the veneer curl. The thinner the veneer the more it curls. That was manageable for my 3" wide aprons but could be a problem required extra hands for a large flat veneer. BTW the veneered aprons are holding up very well. Also, the veneer will not stick to the MDF until the heat is applied and starts to cool, so you you have more adjustment than contact cement which has none. By all means, practice first. md
  11. I'm liking ARS, too. That's ARM-R-Seal.
  12. I all for having a shot!
  13. Hijack.......Like Log cabin builders. I love that show.
  14. That was a worthwhile project. My Mom would have a bunch of furniture type things from my shop if she did not live so far away.
  15. I wear my hearing protection over the straps of my mask. 3M - M7502 mask. No problem as long as I put them on in the right order.