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About Pwk5017

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    Journeyman Poster

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    Pittsburgh, PA
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  1. Most refer to it as VSCT, because spelling the whole thing out is cringe worthy.
  2. Hey Bob, This thread among others are worth reading: I responded a few times in that thread. The VSCT fence is a great retro option for people with bies rails. If i didnt have rails already, i would probably go with a use unifence. However, you asked about the VSCT fence, so i will say its expensive but its very nice. Very straight aluminum compared to the typical wavy junk every bies uses. Attaching jigs is a snap. I love the adjustability of sliding the extrusion in or out to fit your needs. Ive had the fence about a year and love it. Dont care for the name, and i dont care for the color either. Other than that it's a winner.
  3. The place always smelled of carcinogens to me. My advice would be to limit your exposure to the air. I have furniture blankets and some small furniture dollies from HF. That is the extent of what i would buy from them. Print off a 20% coupon before you go; I think you can get them online from their site.
  4. Unisaw has a proprietary motor mount, so unfortunately his choices are limited. I believe you can get a 3, 4, and 5hp motor for the unisaw with the appropriate mount. OP, 3phase motors dont produce more torque or power per the rated motor, but they do typically last longer and run cooler. The main difference is single phase motors typically limit out around 7.5hp. To that point, a 7.5hp 3phase motor does produce more power than a 3-5hp single phase motor.
  5. I completed the drawer before Christmas, but kept it hidden from the community, because i reneged on our group decision. I mocked up two versions, and ended up picking the boobs piece. Ive had this damn board section for 3ish years. It was part of the first lumber purchase i ever made--some walnut in a barn on CL. Right or wrong, it was being used. My guilt forced me to come clean and close the loop on this build. The interior is hard maple i resawed to 1/4-3/8" with dadoes halfway through the width/height. Turned out better than i imagined. They fit so tightly that the whole thing isnt glued. Final step is to make door pulls. My wife wanted to use some sort of brushed nickel finish, but it is going to be way too much contrast for me. I told her they will be wood and that is that. Now to decide what they will look like...
  6. What he said. I actually saw a similar condition PM65 pop up in my market 2-3 weeks ago. The guy wanted $300, and i offered $150, i think. He didnt accept, and im sure he thought i was low-balling him. The fact is, the saw needs a new fence-$300. It needs a general clean up of belts and bearings--$50-75. And it needs a lot of time to disassemble the saw and put it back together--4-5 hours. You add it all up and im not going to screw around with something unless its rock bottom price. Now, you could make it work for $300, but i was looking to turn around and make a buck or two on the saw. If your all in cost was below $500 and 4-5 hours of labor for the saw, then i think its worth it. It is lighter duty than the PM66, but its still a fairly well designed saw that would perform well for you. Id certainly take that with a good fence over a 1990s-early 2000s contractor saw.
  7. That jointer looks like a generic turd, and it would almost have to be free for me to take it. Still, if it runs and the tables/fence arent warped, then you could easily get it performing well. Keep in mind, if something breaks on it, chances are the whole tool is scrap. However, if belts, bearings, knives, motor, switch go on you, you can easily replace those. That saw is a PM65, i believe. This would make me a bit nervous in the parts department too, because that tool is 60+ years out of production. However, if it operates now, then you are fine. All electrical components can be replaced down the road. What cant be replaced, or whats difficult to replace are the machined/cast parts specific to the saw. If you break a trunnion, you are screwed. If your arbor is bent, you are screwed. If you lose the arbor nut, and that 5/8" arbor is some wacky thread pitch/count, then you are screwed. All these things can be remachined by a machinist, but you are talking about ordering a one off part to be custom made--$$$. Then again, the PM65 may share quite a few internal parts to his better pm66 brother, where parts are easier to find, i believe. Im more familiar with the unisaw, than i am with the vintage powermatics. If both tools run acceptably well right now then you can assume you will have a few more years of good service. I think it is good practice to replace the consumables like bearings/belts the second it hits your shop. Your example is pretty good with what you picked. One is some unknown make and model that is worth diddly squat. Another is from a well known manufacturer where im sure you could get a ton of help online with any problem you might run into. For example, if a guy posts something about an older unisaw, the first thing im going to tell him is "triple check the motor". The pre-2000s unisaw use a proprietary motor mount, which means you are stuck buying a leeson or baldor motor for $350-425 if its 3phase or busted. This can easily kill the deal.
  8. This might be old hat for some, but it really improved the accuracy of my miter gauge setup, so thought i would share: I own one of the expensive incra gauges with the telescoping aluminum fence blah blah blah. Anyways, i thought spending $150 on a miter gauge would mean effortless crosscuts, but i struggled to calibrate the tool to dead on 0°. The instructions suggest lining it up next to the blade and using a square to align the fence. I did this and for whatever reason it did not work well for me. I kept getting unacceptable cuts. It occurred to me a couple weeks ago to revisit the calibration process and this time register off my fence face instead of the blade. I knew my fence was perfectly parallel, and it offered a much better reference surface. Bam, dead on 90 crosscuts now, and i finally feel like the purchase was worth it. I love the tool now that it performs well. Hopefully this helps someone else who struggled to calibrate their miter gauge perfectly.
  9. Is both an option? I prefer my planer over my DS whenever possible. At a certain point the DS is a necessary evil. 20"+ panels, tearout prone grain, thin stuff, end grain, cross grain, etc. My ideal method is 1/16" pass through the planer to level/flatten and then take the lightest cut at 150grit on the DS to get it ready for ROS and finish. Drum sanders are painfully slow, and small ones have to be even more painful. 1/16" is asking a lot of a DS, or a lot of your time in the form of 3-4 passes per face. My glueups without dominoes are almost always out a 1/16", so that is a 1/16 on top and the same on the bottom. It is a good point, however, a drum sander probably would serve you better than stepping up to a big planer. The supermax and powermatic sanders are a heck of a lot less than a good 20" byrd too!
  10. Yeah, also curious how/why you jumped to the kapex. I keep looking at mine thinking i might sell it, maybe.
  11. The devil is in the details. China and Taiwan to answer your question. Boff. It explains the price gap between two seemingly identical tools by grizzly. Look at the 609 jointer versus the 9860. On and on and on across their catalog.
  12. Its very possible im about to be stoned by the masses for saying this, but i own a powermatic 209hh. I have a local woodworker that has the G1033X that ive seen, but not used. Without the paint, i would be really hard pressed to identify the difference between the two machines.The power switch is different, and the PM has these crappy built in casters. I say 'crappy', because they barely roll, and they dont swivel; however, they did allow me to man handle it off the pallet and into place by myself, which was sweet. It was nice not to have to spend $150 on some mobility kit ill use once a year. Also, keep in mind i have a 5 year warranty and higher perceived resale value on the used market versus my friend's grizzly. Compare the prices. This grizzly is not cheap. After the sale price, the grizzly and pm were comparable for me(i have to pay sales tax on the grizzly). My case was unique, because i had a byrd cutterhead from a friend, but i might have gone grizzly otherwise. I think Jet sucks, but thats just me. Id go grizzly, or i would step up to powermatic. No middle ground for me.
  13. If you are going to do it eventually, i would do it now on the helical head. Swapping them looks like a gigantic PITA, not to mention the cost of the head, bearings, etc. Plus, last year there was some wacky manufacturing shortage and they were back ordered for 6+ months, i believe. My 20" PM with byrd head is 5hp, so i cant comment on if 3hp is enough. Just looking at the market, the budget/older 20" machines are 3hp, and the new mid-range/light industrial 20" machines are 5hp. This is Grizzly, PM, Jet, Bridewood, Hammer, etc. Whoever makes stuff for small shops and hobbyists. Im no expert, but looks like a well designed jointer or planer 12-15" capacity is well served with 3hp. 16"-20" is when you see everyone step up to 5hp+. If you get a helical head, i would consider the 5hp machine. Congrats on the purchase, i really like my machine so far. Coming up on a year of ownership right now, but i can only compare it to a dw735.
  14. Im sure im setting myself up for a stupid purchase, but im looking at this HCM I believe it is 1930-1950 production from what i can find on vintage machinery's catalog. Ive stated before i wouldnt touch pre-50s equipment when it comes to jointers, but this thing kinda appeals to me. 90% of it is the price i would offer this guy, but the other 10% looks at a HCM and sees very little improvement over the last century. Aside from antique versus new, this is a question for those that own mortisers--good buy or regrettable decision? I have a DF500 and i plan on buying an XL in the next year or two when i find the right deal. Im certainly not in a hurry to drop $1400 on a new one. Even with both joiners, there will still be situations where a traditional integral tenon makes sense. I recently posted a thread about lining up a DF500 in thick stock and someone teased me saying to make M&T the right way with "a router and TS". This response kinda made me chuckle, because to a strong contingent, 'the right way' would mean a tenon saw, brace with auger bit, and a chisel. My response to this gentleman was that a router and TS is slow and boring. What i really wanted to say is i hate routing mortises. The 4-5 depth passes per mortise is annoying as hell, not to mention the load of chisel work afterwards to square them off. Cutting tenons at the TS with a dado stack is easy and efficient. Ive never used a mortiser before, so i dont know if i would appreciate the tool, or find it to be the stationary version of using a router with guide.
  15. Sorta. I get your advice if a business is buying a new $25,000-100,000 machine, but we are talking $1000 here. If $1000 sinks his business, then he should find a new way to spend his time. Example, I went out on a bit of a limb with the pm209hh last spring during the sale. Cost me like $3500ish, which is by far the most I've ever spent on a tool. Part of the reason I bought it was it was on sale and my local dealer gave me 12 months 0% financing. I can't tell you how much time that planer has saved me over sticking with the dw735. I mill a lot, which it does twice as fast as the dw735, but it also allowed me to plane 20" subsections and decrease the amount of abrasive planing I did at my drum sander. Taking 1/16" off each side of a 24-36" wide panel that's 4-10' long is PAINFULLY slow. In short, if you know your workflow and the bottlenecks, I think cap ex investments make a ton of sense. Now, this also comes with a grain of salt to not be stupid and buy a 50k shop on a line of credit that is going to sit for two years. Know your business and how it's growing. Huxley breaking out the 50 years of resawing experience on everyone! Point taken on the tensioning. I read that more as saying the MM line takes a much larger blade than the ACM line, which is what I argued. I've never used a minimax 20 or 24. I looked at a couple 16s prior to buying my LT20. Im very glad I waited. One, I bought the laguna for what the 16s were asking, and it's easily 1.5-2x the saw that the mm16 is. I don't have a ton of resawing experience, but I do have several years of working with entry level hobbyist kit versus light commercial stuff, and the latter is soooooooo much better and faster. If I resawed a decent amount for money, I honestly wouldn't consider my saw to be overkill. Actually, I would probably consider it the bare minimum and look to upgrade. If you are making money off what you are doing, you really owe it to yourself to research and invest in the tooling to fit your needs.