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About Pwk5017

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    Pittsburgh, PA
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  1. if he has 14" rounds, as he turns it into a cant i bet he will be under 12", so i think the riser would be the most economical way. However, how long are these logs? I dont know how comfortable i would be wielding a 8' long log through a 14" saw.
  2. Getting paid. Aside from the occasional pay day on commissioned projects, i like the first coat of finish and enjoying the final project. Im with mel that the rest really is just work to me. It is work that i usually enjoy, sometimes hate, but always do in the pursuit of the end product. My workspace is my entire basement, which i walk through every day to get to my car in the garage before and after work. There is always a half second pause to take in the view before i turn off the lights and close the door behind me. I have an affinity for my tools, bench, and overall space that always brighten my spirit.
  3. Maybe i suck at finding hand plane deals, but i looked and looked and looked on CL and Ebay. Everybody wants top dollar for their planes, and they usually get their asking price. I think woodriver makes decent stuff, certainly worthwhile users. Moving forward, i am only buying used LN or LV tools. Actually, just purchased a LV router plane and 6-8 blades for $150 off CL yesterday. Guy is shipping it to me. Definitely not a hot deal, but that is an example of the kind of "deals" that are available on quality used hand tools. I picked up a LN no8 over the summer for $250, which was a great deal. Im at the point now where i need spokeshaves, a shoulder plane, and rasps and i sorta dont care about the "deals" aspect of acquiring them. As previously mentioned, buying quality hand tools doesnt expose you to much depreciation. A no71 router plane that is 80 years old still has quite a bit of value to it.
  4. It's dead simple. You have four bolts that hold the table to the cabinet. After that, the unisaw has a bolt and a pin that hold the motor in place. You need two people to take this motor off. I know you can do it solo with some blocks of wood, but that sounded sketchy to me. Too easy to drop 70lb motor on your foot or damage it. The pin can be a royal pain to get off after 30+ years of remaining in place. Im by no means a mechanical person. I change my oil, spark plugs, and air filters--thats about it on my car. I did 3 saws top to bottom and it had its frustrating moments, but nothing was beyond my basic abilities.
  5. Ive stripped a few unisaws, and one dude can handle the base cabinet and trunnion without too much difficulty. I would say the top with a CI extension wing weighs as much as the motor which weighs as much as the base cabinet. If you break it down into 3-4 chunks, each one weighs less than 100lbs. Cabinet saws are pretty easy to move. Like everyone said, you need the top off to switch belts and bearings, so you are costing yourself a ton of extra time by breaking it all down.
  6. Yeah thats fair. I wasnt arguing for not learning them. Quite the opposite, you cant recreate the through tenons on the morris chairs with a domino. Also, it would be dumb to try and recreate the roubo leg M&T. I think any large/chunky design lends itself to traditional M&T, but a lot of your typical apron to leg connection is domino territory. Regardless of earning shortcuts, you need the skill for the 20% of the times the domino wont cut it. Example, my sets of morris chairs are 40% traditional M&T and 60% domino.I already mentioned the through tenon, but trying to domino that angled one in the rear would be stupid, just stupid and difficult.
  7. I obsess about knots a little bit when fishing. It is important, proper wetting and technique directly affect breaking strength. This is for guys who elegantly fishing 5-7x tippet and not chucking bait on 40lb braid... With that said, the domino is like using my orvis nail knot tool. Quick, easy, properly done, and you would never know i used it by looking at the knot.
  8. I havent used the Xl yet, but i dont see how you replicate the tenons i made on my roubo. Suckers were 4-5"x4-5" and 2-3" long. Personally, I find M&T work to be kind of mindless and unrewarding. There are exceptions, like the roubo example above, or through tenons on the morris chairs im making right now, but for the most part i can do without the thrill of making a mortise and fitting a tenon to that mortise. 9/10 this is a structural joint that is invisible to the eye, so I really see no difference. Domino does it fast, well, and it is strong. Doing with a table saw/router/chisel is slower, increases the likelihood of an improper fit, but is probably stronger in most cases. I say this because your integral tenon is typically bigger in any given piece than using multiple dominoes.
  9. Doing my regular rounds on craigslist and found this guy. He might be closer to people than georgia etc. Like I said, these people are out there, just need to find them
  10. Agreed, both are nice, but i prefer the sapwood bookmatch with a hint of curl.
  11. Yeah, thank marketing for screwing up the nomenclature on face vs edge, not to mention exactly what "butcher block" means to people. Typically constructing an edge grain board from flatsawn material will give you a quarter/rift sawn appearance using many pieces. However, if you start with QS or RS then you will have a flatsawn appearance. Same for making boards out of wide flatsawn stock. You may experience more cupping from those boards, but if you use QS stock then i dont see why it would cup more than an edge grain board out of flatsawn material.
  12. I have no affiliation with this guy, and im only posting the link as an example. I think you will find one person in each metro area that is making custom MFT tops with their CNCs. The beauty of the MFT is within the accuracy of the grid system. Look up halfinchshy and his review of qwas products. Unfortunately, just getting a festool track saw wont solve all your problems. If you only have a home center square, how will you make square cuts with the track saw? You need an accurate square to line up the rail accurately, OR you need a perfect grid system with a rail and qwas dogs.
  13. I may be in the minority here, but I own an MFT3 and I dont think i would suggest one to an in-home shop. I bought mine off craigslist for a discount and then sold the fence and protractor for $120, which made it work well for me. However, if i had the space and faced with buying new, i would go the bare top route or have a local cnc shop fabricate a 4'x8' sheet for me. Once you have the perfect grid, the QWAS system kicks butt. With the bare top, a rail or two, and a set of qwas dogs and rail dogs you are much better off than the MFT3. Things to consider when purchasing an MFT3 Do you need the portability? Do you have an accurate square to calibrate the fence and tilting rail? Do you find yourself routinely cutting non 45°/90° angles on wide stock?
  14. Good point, I was thinking about the older saws accepting a skinnier blade than my ceramic guides. I think I can only go down to 3/8". Never had to use it, because I cut 75% of my curves with the resaw king. Everything else gets a 1/2" blade. I simply don't incorporate a lot of tight curves in my work as of yet. And it depends, there's a 36" Oliver in my area for like $200-300 with a 1.5hp single phase motor. Something like that would be a nice dedicated machine. I love the table size on the old bigger saws. The 14" saws give you a dessert plate to work on.
  15. If I had the room, I might have a second band saw for tighter curves. Chances are I wouldn't want another 14" cast iron saw. I hated the jet I had. I have a 20" Laguna that is fantastic. 95% of the time it has a 1-1/4" resaw king on it. It's really no problem to swap out blades to a 3/8 or 1/2 blade for tight curves. If I had the space, I wouldn't pick up a 14" saw, I would get one of the old school 24-36" saws and run a skinny blade on it for curved work. The 14" jet had a tiny table, vibrated like heck, and was crap to work with. Bigger saws are much nicer to work with, in my opinion.