Bill Tarbell

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Bill Tarbell last won the day on June 30 2014

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About Bill Tarbell

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 04/16/1982

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Beginner - furniture

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  1. Good point on the 1/4" glass. I hadn't considered how thick that glass would be until you mentioned it. That alone makes a very strong point as to why the single profile cutter makes a whole lot of sense. @Tom King Your post made me laugh Yea, i'm 34 and i've yet to personally see a broken pane on a door. We don't plan on having kids or dogs, and it will be a pocket door that's tucked in the wall 99% of the time. I figured that'd make the probability low enough to be worth the risk. However, i suppose i could even break one during in the installation process. I do have a shaper that i bought early in the spring. It's a used G1026 that i've yet to try out. We bought a house last September and have been refactoring a decent bit of the interior to suit us. I have quite a lot of trim work in my future. One factor I hadn't mentioned is that I'll be making 5 solid panel doors in addition to this one divided light door. Thoughts on buying these to tackle all of the doors? http://www.grizzly.com/products/C2170 main set http://www.grizzly.com/products/C2320 3/4" rabbet http://www.grizzly.com/products/W1167 3/4" spacer
  2. I'm looking to build a pocket door for our game room project. In shopping for the shaper cutters i noticed that there seems to be two separate types. Wood panel doors will have profile on both sides of the muntin whereas the glass panel muntins only have profile on one side. I understand that it's so i can more easily replace a broken pane later on.. but is it really necessary to have the added complexity? Is there any reason not to use a dual profile for a glass panel door? --aside from replacing broken glass.
  3. I'm looking for some opinions as to whether I should add a top coat to this project. It's made of oak and had a stain applied a few days ago. The door it's next to is the one we use as a main entrance to the house, so it's likely the shelves will be used to hold day-to-day things like our keys, wallet, kindles, purse, etc. I'm not too worried about the shelves getting small dents and scratches, though i do wonder the main platform will end up getting dirty over the years. Poly would help with being able to wipe off grime, but i'm concerned about it chipping/flaking over the years and needing refinished. Would something like shellac be a better alternative? Maybe just a coat or two of wipe on poly to avoid being thick enough to chip but adding some ability to clean the dirt buildup away?
  4. Thanks again for the advice, everyone. Here's a couple before and after shots of the area. This was the first time i'd built something like this so it was a bit of learning experience. The project was sparked when i bought a thermal camera and noticed that the wall around the door was leaking a lot of heat. Turns out that when the prior owner sealed up the former garage door opening and installed this door he didn't bother adding any insulation behind those white wooden panels.
  5. Thanks for the tips and encouragement. I went with glue and angling the nailer and it turned out fine. I guess i was a bit overly paranoid about the brads curling on me.
  6. My experience with nailers is relatively short. Am i over-estimating the risk of curl out by angling the nailer like so? Thanks for the tip on the random curlies. I have an 18" brad with various lengths and a 15g finish, but my shortest length permissible by the gun is 1 1/4". While the cleat can technically accept that length, it felt a bit long to me and only allowed for about 1/8 to 1/4" of wood below the bottom of the nail. Each cleat has 3-4 brads holding it to the paneling. Only one of the brads on each cleat is in a stud. The red lines in the pic are where the studs are. I considered hand nailing a finish nail but i wasn't sure how well that would go through so much oak. Also, while the cleats should be plenty to hold the shelf up, i don't think i want to test it against hammering in a handful of 1" nails. I'm not sure if glue alone is enough, but i figured the combo of glue and brads would be ok. This is the first time i've built something like this, so i've just been going with what has felt right.
  7. That was my original plan, but the magazine hits the front lip of the shelf causing me to make the nailer perpendicular to the shelf. This brings the tip of the nailer out away from the wall and gets dangerously close to the front lip of the cleat. I know i could turn the nailer sideways, but then i worry about the brad hitting grain and curling out the front of the cleat. (due to their flat shape, the brads only curl to the sides of the nailer, not to the front or back of it.)
  8. I'm building a oak shelving area near our basement door. It's the door we use most often so it'll likely be a spot to set things like keys, wallet, mail,, etc. The trouble is that I'm not sure how i should attach the shelves. My initial plan was to use glue and shoot brads down into the cleats i already put on the walls. However, my brad nailer wont fit comfortably into the corner and i'm worried it'll blow out the front of the cleat. With the way it lines up, it looks like it'll shoot and penetrate the cleat roughly 1/8" behind its front edge. The paneling is 1/4" plywood. The shelf is 9/16 thick oak The cleat is 9/16" wide on top and roughly 1 1/4" tall with a mitered edge. How would you attach them?
  9. I can see 3 images on the original post. They're hosted via duck's PhotoBucket.
  10. Do you have forstner bits? You could probably fix the tippiness of the current build by just using the forstner to go down by 1/4" on each hole. If you make it close to the same size as the base of the plastic handle then they should just sit rather snug into the widened part of the hole but not fall all the way through. There's an image below to show the general idea. It'll be a bit of a pain to center the forstner bit, but if you're just planning on throwing this initial build away then it's certainly worth a shot. You could also do it with a standard brad point bit.. the base of the hole just wont look quite as clean.
  11. Nice work. I love how symmetrical and aligned everything is I wonder.. in the FWW pic it looks like the chisels are resting in the holes via friction on the handle rather than on the socket. It seems like that may cause a potential issue of the socket coming loose from the handle and plummeting to the floor (or to your foot!). At least something to consider before you start hanging your chisels up.
  12. Rosewood looks close but it's expensive.
  13. Now i'm curious.. who uses a gavel aside from a judge or auctioneer?
  14. In case someone stumbles in here in the future, I think any caster with over a 75lb individual rating will be overbuilt for what you need on a planer stand. Lunchbox planers weigh less than 100lbs and your lumber won't weigh all that much either. I'd just browse on amazon to find a caster that suits what you want. Having a larger diameter will help it to roll over wood chips on the floor. Only 2 of the casters need to lock. My guess is you can buy sufficient casters for $20-30 total. Here's a steelex 4" locking swivel caster for $7.5 a piece. These are still overkill, but at a more reasonable price. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005W0WPAG
  15. I'd also expect the gavel to be hit off of the edges of the sounding pad fairly often. At least the judges on TV seem to just blindly swing at it while looking at all the people.