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davewyo last won the day on November 20 2016

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About davewyo

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    Jackson, WY
  • Woodworking Interests
    furniture making

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  1. I hope you know I was just joking. I didn't mean to impugn your reputation. I've never been to "your" lumber yard either. It's something like 1500 miles away. I'm sorry if I insulted you. It was not intended.
  2. Um...Yes. Unfortunately I can imagine anything that my silly mind can think up.
  3. Sometimes you get lumber which will cup like a son-of-a-gun when it is cut. Try cutting into another board, if you have one.
  4. Have you ever been to Eric.'s lumber yard Coop? I imagine it's a lot like this. http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/a-lumbering-feeling/
  5. Yes. It's way off topic but I know what you're talking about. I have the same problem with my local lumber yard. I'm so minuscule that when I ask someone for help buying lumber I get the feeling I'm just in the way. The way I've gotten over that is to stand back a while and see how the contractors operate. I also do most of the work myself. I sort through the piles by myself, put them back as neat or better than I found them, get the 20 BF I'm looking for lined up, and go to the front desk with all the info they need to get me out of the way in a matter of moments. I seldom want them to make any cuts, but if I do I carry the boards over to the radial arm saw and line them up before anyone even arrives. It still was an awkward environment to work in for a while but given some time they got used to me. They now know that I'm a serious hobbyist who knows a little something and isn't trying to give them a hard time. They know that I buy a small but steady amount of lumber which isn't going to make them wealthy, but I'm a consistent source of income that takes almost no effort on their part. Most of the normal guys and even a few of the surly guys know my name now, and they know that I'm going to buy some lumber every now and then. The guys at the register routinely give me the usual contractors discount if I buy 50 or 100 BF.
  6. Not to your point but if you're interested in some of the fundamentals check out Google Books for "classic" works on dendrology. Filter your search for "free google e-books" and use key words like forestry, cabinet making, furniture making, and such.
  7. Yes you will normally wear the surface of your water stones as much as you try to move the blade all over the place. I use a coarse diamond plate made by DMT to flatten my stones. Depending on how dinged up my edge is I may start my sharpening on the diamond stone but, unless I dropped the chisel on the floor or something, generally I would just touch up the edge with a 1000 or 4000 grit stone. I would then work my way up to my finest stone. When finished for the day I rub my water stones on top of my diamond plate until the stones are flat.
  8. It should be the same except for the size.
  9. No worries Coop. I get what you mean. I don't necessarily agree with you though. Perhaps I couldn't sell the Thing for "time and materials" because there is no market for $1200 jewelry boxes that don't hold jewelry very well, but if I was making an oak dining table that's what I would do. I would add up the cost of the lumber and I would factor in $60 or $100 per hour for my labor. Then I would look at that number and decide how much I want to mark it up from there when I consider the market I'm selling in. Keep in mind, in the market I'm in, if I was to make a simple custom (Shaker or Rustic, or whatever) dining table I'll bet I could get plenty more than materials plus $100/hr., just because that's what people charge around here.
  10. I did a lot of sanding and then the glue up of the case. Squared up the front so the doors sit right. http:// The flipped it over and threw in a diagonal clamp to square up the back a little. http:// Over the next hour I checked it again, and again, and again to see if it was square even though it checked out every time. The front is square and the back is nearly so. I also slipped in a couple of the drawer blades without any glue, just to make sure things are as they should be.
  11. I thought I might be imagining it, but I have found the same thing. If I'm taking down a lot of metal it helps to switch to a medium grit for a little while and then go back to the coarse diamonds. I figured that I'm seeing faster results because I'm scoring a grain pattern with the coarse plate and then taking off the high points with a medium grit before I go back to the coarse.
  12. A nice upgrade for the HF DC is to switch out the 5 micron bag for a 1 micron bag.
  13. Yeah, 10 is probably a low estimate. Gotta have one in each car too...
  14. For a flat surface like yours I might use a 500 or a 1000 grit Abralon pad on my polisher(or ROS). Wait three weeks for it to cure before buffing it out. One week is too little IMO.
  15. Yeah, I flatten my stones every time I use them for more than a few swipes. With my ceramic stone it only takes a couple of passes on the diamond plate to see if I'm hitting the entire surface. It's cream colored, so it's not so much as a color change as it is a sheen and a cleanliness which says the diamonds have abraded the surface. With my Norton water stones it's a distinct color change. For example, the yellow stone goes from mustard to canary yellow. You can readily see if the whole surface is being flattened.