davewyo

Supporter
  • Content count

    1,500
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,002 Excellent

About davewyo

  • Rank
    Master Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Jackson, WY
  • Woodworking Interests
    furniture making

Recent Profile Visitors

2,951 profile views
  1. Yeah I want the glass to be easily replaceable so I need the lip for the backer panel to screw into.
  2. I have a Woodriver #4, #5,and a block plane. They are much better than the $25 Stanley but they are not quite up to a Lee Valley or Lie Neilson plane. Graham Hayden did a review a while back on the Woodriver #4 plane. Do a search on this site to see that.
  3. I'm sorry Anna S. I may not be satisfying your curiosity for quite some time on that score. I won't be cutting the glass until later on when I have the doors all fitted and the hinges installed. I'm not at all sure I can install the off-set knife hinges cleanly while simultaneously getting the doors to sit flush and work correctly, so I don't want to cut the glass if these don't end up being the doors which go on the project. Yesterday I watched football and worked on partially emptying my attic because the ice dams on the overhang of the roof are causing water to back up into my storage space. Today I cut the rabbets for the glass and backer boards. I used the router table with stop blocks and the fence. Because the stock is trapped between the fence and the bit I made my cut moving the stock from left to right. Then I squared the corners (not shown). http://
  4. That's another great idea, Steve! I could make my own little sheet of "ply-wood" for the backer boards. I like that!
  5. Thanks Anna! My next step is to cut two rabbets into the back of the door frames. A smaller one for the glass and a slightly larger one for the backer board. I got a really thin mirror glass (1.5 mm, so about 1/16th inch). The doors are small(4"x10") so I want to keep them light. I have some 1/8" hardboard for the backer but I'm going to try to make them out of solid wood. I'm planning to secure them with two brass screws(top and bottom center) with sloppy slots so that the wood can move. If the solid backer boards bow significantly I'll go to the hardboard. I'll probably put a piece of card stock between the glass and the backer board as a sort of a squeeze block, so if things shift with seasonal movement the glass maybe won't crack. During the finishing stages; after I get the doors complete, fitted, and the hinges installed I'm thinking of gilding the profiled edges of the doors with gold leaf. I got the stuff I need, but I'm not 100% sure if mirror with gilding alongside will look good on the Thing. I'll try it out on my test door before I commit.
  6. No worries Coop. I would be interested in the answer too. It's not really off topic if we're learning something.
  7. That's a really wild effect! I can't say that I have experience with what you're trying to do, but I have used West Systems. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but... I think the slow setting epoxy is more yellow-ish than the quicker setting variety. Check out their website to see which resin/hardener combo gives the clearest results
  8. Thanks to everyone for all the kind words. Thanks for the excellent advise, guys! I should know it without being told, but it always helps to get a dose of sober thinking. Ya know, I've never had it where someone says; "Oh, you're having trouble with that? What you need is a cheaper tool...:" Today I spent an hour/hour and a half making the inside corners of the profile (where the router bit can't touch) more pointy. It's a slow and careful operation where you definitely want to take off too little rather than too much. http://
  9. That's a great tip! I had noticed that there is a glass cutting oil. My glass cutter even has a reservoir so that it self dispenses, but I didn't really want to go to the trouble. I'll give your trick a try. Not much effort and I can see how the spirits will leave just the right amount of oily residue for the small cuts I'm making.
  10. Yeah, I have some mirror glass I'm going to try out. I don't think I want to see the inside of the case through the doors. It'll be my first time cutting glass, but it looks pretty easy on youtube. If that doesn't seem right I'll put in some opaque glass.
  11. Gosh, Chet, I really don't have a clue. I went back to the beginning of this journal and roughly added things up, and I would say I have around 200 hours, give or take. It's probably a lot more if you count up the time I've spent thinking about things, researching on the internets, and planning the design. The carving parts of the project take a long time, and then there's the sanding. The joinery and machine time for the case parts and such only takes a couple of hours each time I work on it. It's quite small and doesn't have much lumber in it, so it doesn't take all that much time to cut a half dozen dovetails or whatnot. I'm not very efficient with my shop time. I don't really get much done on a day to day basis. If I'm working on a procedure that I have a clear idea of what I'm doing I might spend 4 to 6 hours of productive work, but most of the time I spend an hour or three and much of that is goofing off.
  12. I marked out my pattern on the doors and took them to the scroll saw. http:// I paired them up in the vice and used files and sandpaper to clean them up. http:// Then I used the router table to put on the profile. http://
  13. Norton makes a water stone case that fits the bill.
  14. Sounds good. I can cut a section from a clump next time I'm in the Lake Powell, Utah area(which is quite often). There are Tamarisk all along the Colorado River. They're using some kind of imported beetle to try and control the invasive shrubs.
  15. Wow! That's a lotta dowel holes!