andrew-in-austin

Members
  • Content count

    229
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

56 Good

About andrew-in-austin

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture

Recent Profile Visitors

1,103 profile views
  1. I have bought a lot from Carbide Processors (especially router bits) and they are great to work with. However, if you want a really solid, strong clamp for a really good price, try the Bessey TGJ2.506+2k from http://www.ptreeusa.com/clamp_f_style.htm These are ridiculously strong, much more than most low end F-style, and they are only $10.99 from peachtree, and include the "2K comfort grip. ...that reminds me, some clamp maker should market a "kung fu grip" for their handles GIJOE!
  2. I adapted this fence to the Incra fence and am very happy with it. I got the 48 inch long version and really like the extra length, make it easier to register the material.
  3. Having 3 phase opens up a lot of options for used equipment, sometimes significantly lower cost than 1-phase equivalent. You can either use a phase converter (rotary or a digital like PhasePerfect) or a VFD (variable frequency drive). With a VFD, you can control the speed of the motor and do other things like motor braking to stop the motor very quickly. 3 HP VFDs, the good ones, are about $200-250 each, and you typically would not share a VFD among many machines, but I guess it might be possible. Phase converters vary on price depending on HP ratings (which typically need to be double the actual tool HP), but they often are used to run several machines, even at the same time.
  4. Comparison chart with country of origin: Not sure I get why the G0454Z which is made in Taiwan is $2200 while the G0454ZW which is supposedly made in China is more at $2600. The G0454Z is "not available for immediate shipment" but it does not indicate they will no longer make or sell them. $2200 for a 20" spiral cutterhead planer is a steal.
  5. This one seemed pretty nice: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200631995_200631995 20x40, 2200 lbs, $509
  6. The home depot one is an interesting option. I wonder how sturdy any of these tables are. Ideally you would want one that would not rock, rack, or bend under load. I would not expect the sturdiness of a classic workbench, but hopefully something close.
  7. I recently saw a video for this: ..and it looked like that could come in very handy at times. Could work nicely as a in-feed table for multiple tools. Also to load/unload from a truck bed. I don't think I'll consider the Felder one, as it's around $1300, but I wonder if a lower cost lift table could be adapted with a wooden top with dog holes for not too much money. Looks like both HF and Northern Tool have some tables that could be used.
  8. Looks like it only needs a switch and some rust removal? If so that seems like a very good deal.
  9. You never know what might come your way. I picked up a Northfield 36" for $1100. Not that I am a resaw expert, but from what I have read from professionals that do this, a carbide blade and a saw that can tension it properly are the keys. Most all of the vintage US cast iron large saws have no problem with that. The modern MiniMax bandsaws have no problem with that. The Grizzly "ultimate" bandsaws (and not the extreme or any other moniker) can also tension those blades without issue. Actually, if $2500 was in your budget, I would get the Grizzly 17 G0636X and be done with it. Only other improvements I can think of would be much higher feet per minute (and higher HP) and power feeder. But unless you are doing hundreds of feet per day, that's probably not necessary.
  10. Can you try plunging the saw well before the wood (leave about 8 inches of track ahead of the wood), then sliding the saw in to to the wood? I never plunge in to the wood because I will usually get a cut mark like you show. Now, having suggested that, the only problem with plunging before the wood and sliding is that the track is not supported where you plunge, so the track can sag, and possibly twist, and when sliding in to the wood, it may cut slightly off. Ideally you really need to support the track before the wood with another piece of scrap wood the exact same width as the wood you want to cut, which means you need a work table a bit wider than the piece of wood you are cutting. Also, at the end of the cut, don't "de" plunge until the saw comes to a complete stop.
  11. Same here with my previous dog who died suddenly. I suspect neighbors putting out poison as well.
  12. The weight is really only necessary for things like hand planing and chiseling. For power tools, it will make practically no difference. You might want to consider a first bench like the Paulk workbench: And then build a hand tool bench later. It seems like a lot of folks end up having two benches, 1 for assembly/power tools (like using a track saw or router) and another for hand tools.
  13. You can get a super dust deputy XL for about $240 and probably get a used plastic barrel off craigslist for $35. If you are venting outside, I would try this combo to save you some money, which will no doubt need for Nordfab. I don't want to add up what it cost me for the nordfab because it's probably a bigger cost than anything else in my shop. And if you can , I would recommend at least 5" to the tools. For example, the table saw 5" drop, then 1-4" for the cabinet and 1-3" for overhead collection. If you must stick with 4" drops, then 6" main line is fine. If you can swing >4" drops, consider 7" main line. I wish I did that with mine. The good thing about nrodfab is they have all sizes in 1" increments.
  14. Good dust collection. It makes the hobby far more enjoyable than any of the tools I own. I wish I went for a high quality high hp cyclone before I bought any planer, jointer, or table saw.
  15. The Festool table in the CMS seems like a toy compared to the SawStop sliding table. It's also way overpriced.