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Everything posted by bushwacked

  1. Getting my 2nd coat of primer on. Ya painting is so dang boring! Decided to get that started for now and then come back and deal with the doors.
  2. I am going to need to build a new wall cabinet for our bathroom because we have a huge open wall and are running low on storage space. For the most part it would hold the basics ... towels and bathroom/shower stuff. All the cabinets I see that I like are $200+ so I figured why not do it myself then and most likely save money and it be better quality (Hopefully ) The wall where it is going to go is here, right above the ironing board: So far my design is below .... Nothing spectacular, but it should be very efficient for where it is going and hold plenty. I was wanting to make it out of some nice wood, however when I pitched the idea to my wife ... of course she wanted something bright in there since it is a little dark. Sooooo white it is, which means some form of plywood and poplar. I was debating making it fully out of poplar thought just because. The price would be a little cheaper for poplar as well since from what I can see it would run me about 60ish BF of poplar coming in at around $1.6-1.8 a BF puts me right around $100 and if I went full ply with poplar face frames that would be 3 sheets of ply ~$50 plus poplar so looking at $160-175. Is there any reason I should not go full poplar? Yes plywood would be easier and a lot less milling ... Hopefully I will be picking the wood up today if poplar is the way to go to let it get acclimated for a few days .. If I go pl it will be next week. Thoughts?
  3. Damn you were right that was short and sweet lol. That attaching to the outfeed table is brilliant!! Does it line up when the sleds are down or when you hook it up there you take the back sled off and it goes right out to the outfeed?
  4. ok perfect. Let me find the hinge I think I want to go with first haha
  5. hmmmm ... I am thinking I will need something that has a little wiggle room in them judging by the test fit. Everything is not lining up 100% like I was hoping. So I would need to move to the Euro style to get that ability to make slight adjustments?
  6. this ^^ Mark has mentioned is several videos about how to use it ... he just moves it along not putting any pressure down on it.
  7. Yep flush trim bit. Easiest and quickest way I know. Thanks for the explanation Steve that helps a lot!
  8. Figure while I'm still working on hinge selection I'd be productive. Knocked out the shelves tonight. Slooooowly keep on keeping on 6 of them ready. Not sure we will use 6 but it is there just in case.
  9. perfect, thanks guys! Are Euro the only hinges that can move in and out and up and down once installed to make the slight adjustments?
  10. oooh ok ... gotcha! maybe something like that would be easier to just get everything on and moving along.
  11. the frame is 2" wide and 3/4" thick ... if that makes a difference. Or do you still consider that too narrow?
  12. So something that looks like this? Would these work for this?
  13. do you have a picture of your chest right now and marked out where the hinges should probably go?
  14. so as far as hinges go ... with my weird overhang measurement does that limit me on the hinges I can use? Should I try to trim up the doors a little to get them a little smaller? Rebuild the doors? lol Thoughts?
  15. So here's where I am at. There is 7/8" overhang. Not sure why I was going for a 3/4 but guess I mathed it up wrong. The face frame is 3/4 thick if that matters. Got the face frame sanded before I started messing with the doors. Next I'll round over everything with a 1/8" bit. Then start plotting install for the doors. Thoughts on hinges or where I am at with doors to install hinges?
  16. planning on getting my doors measured out to see where I want them then figure out my overhang and all that. I should have measurements tonight for you @wdwerker so you can let me know if Euro hinges will work and where I should start looking at sizes needed and getting setup for that
  17. So took the plunge got the track saw and really really like it. Building my bathroom cabinet with it and worked very well. The one thing I found to be a nightmare was the cord length. Plugged into my CT it was not as a long as the hose and I ran into a few instances I had to stop the cut and move the CT closer so I could finish the cut. This was not a once or twice thing, but almost every cross cut of the ply I had to make sure the CT was right up on my where the cut was happening to make sure I could get across cleanly. This was annoying because to move around after the cut I normally had to move the CT out of my way. So with all that said ... I will be going to HD to get some cord by the foot. Probably 15-17', but just not sure what gauge. Does it even matter? Right now, it comes standard with 16/2 from everything I have read. Since there is not a grounding wire, I would assume 16G is fine for this application?
  18. Rewired and tested. Nothing blew up [emoji1] happy with the new length and no longer have to worry.
  19. Yep I was surprised how easy it was to do. Now i have 15' and no longer have to worry.
  20. A couple people were curious so I figure I'll post this little how to for more of a knowledge bank. I hope this is the right spot ... This is my quick fix for the makita track saw and the cord that's way to small. It comes with 8' 16g so I went to Home Depot and bough 14g 15' sjoow. .75 a foot. First you have all these screws to take out. Yes there is one all the way in there so you will need a long Phillips attachment. It took me a minute to figure out why my casing was not coming off... this little fella would be the reason. Now to replace the wires you will need a tiny flat head. We only need to replace the white and black wires that are from the 16/2. They are easy to follow up because they are the biggest 2 wires there. It was a lot easier than I expected. Total time took me about 20-30 mins to finish this and that's with my 2yo daughter wanting to "help" Just make sure you have a tiny flat head and a long Phillips for the handle screw. Also the release mechanism to allow your saw to plunge gets a little loose when the casing is off. Just make sure you don't bump it and make it fall out. Not sure how easy or hard that would be to get back together. Any other questions feel free to ask [emoji106]
  21. Got it wired tonight and I'll test it out tomorrow I'll post a how to in a new thread if anyone will think it's helpful
  22. So with all the help here and opinions I figured I would ask one more ... I just called Makita Support, and it was actually very pleasant. Called in and about 10 seconds later I was on the line with a tech support guy. He basically said I was definitely not the first to think of this. He is not sure why Makita decided to go 16g and 8' but that is what they did. He said if I was going to increase the length just drop a gauge as well. So go to 14g and 15' should be good to go without any issue. The only thing he was not sure of was the wire harness thing that makes the cord go straight out for like 4 inches, it may not fit in there, which is fine.
  23. This does make a lot of sense on the 16g 8ft length ... this is one reason I was hoping to be able to fit a 14g on there and double the length and know I am not going to break anything. I am wanting to make it about 15' or so to make sure I have plenty of room to work with.
  24. Yes, I know it will change the gap, but this is a big cabinet so I was debating on how close it actually needed to be. ok, I will probably keep it around the 3/16 or so gap