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About Brendon_t

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 03/20/1986

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  • Location
    Los Angeles(ish)
  • Woodworking Interests
    Creating beautiful yet functional wood pieces

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  1. I would tape off around the crack so the timbermate doesn't fill all the pores in that area. That would look funky
  2. The blackbean had already been scraped so I just went with 220.. it could have polished up to a high shine but Thad juice wasn't worth the squeeze. Since when had that ever been helpful?
  3. Barely beat you to it.
  4. HA well that would have been a crap ton faster. I had some thin aluminum rod in my tool box from who the hell knows why. It mic'd slightly under the first drill bit I grabbed. A little epoxy helped it slip in proper. The rod sanded down easily.
  5. While stocking up on 6" paper recently to feed the new ec sander, I started getting annoyed at the boxesof paper under the bench. I had an organizer for 5"paper so decided to throw together a box for 6"paper from 1/2 bb ply scraps. Then it I had to look at it every day under there, my own advise haunting me to not miss a chance to do something you haven't done before on shop projects. So here is the replacement. Made of blackbean sides and some Birdseye for the front and back. The new to me technique was pinning the rabbet with metal pins. Finished with blo then rattle can laquor over the top.
  6. I wouldn't think twice about throwing a Veritas inset vice in it. You could use dog holes as small as nails if you were so inclined.
  7. You also may consider moving into something with broad spectrum uv inhibitors if you have any Windows in the office the table will reside in. The colors look great now but once that padeuk turns to crap brown, if may not have the same appeal. I'm going to disagree with mike though on the no filler. On a few projects I used wenge on, I sanded up past 320 to try to get it as smooth as possible. Initially is pretty flat but once you blow it with compressed air, the deep pores are immediate. 4 coats of ARS did not fill in the pores.
  8. Awesome idea and looks like great execution. I was wondering about the longevity of the red oak threads. I wonder if something harder with smaller pores and tighter grain like hard maple or purple heart would last longer. It would probably be an epic pita to cut them but??
  9. It's getting closer and closer to the all anticipated shaping phase. Look great so far
  10. I thought it was quite clear that I was talking about my situation as my blade does not produce a glue ready edge.
  11. Maybe I'm the exception here but my glue line rip blade does not produce what I consider a glue ready surface. Cutting oversized then a very thin pass on the jointer is pretty much required. Not optional.
  12. Rockler sells a dust rite 30 micron bag with a zipper to empty. I have seen 4" hard pipe used to direct it over to the root of the table then down where the bag will connect and blow down. No interference with the table.
  13. Ok so now that we got that all figured out,pardon my thread jacking. What the heck is a cat room?
  14. Good progress. I wouldn't spend any time easing the top. You're going to flatten it soon and erase that work. After flattening I left the corners intact so dust and debris wouldn't be so easily gathered. When debris falls down the dog holes, the dog doesn't seat properly any more and will sit proud of the top.
  15. You may be able to recoup a 600 investment down the road. Depending on how it suits the rest of your needs and the condition of everything else on the saw, and your inclination to work on tools,it sounds like it could be worth a bit of elbow grease.