treeslayer

Members
  • Content count

    915
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

745 Excellent

About treeslayer

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    eastern iowa
  • Woodworking Interests
    making cabinets, tables, desks, lamps, hope chests, custom woodworking of all kinds, hand and power tools, all aspects of woodworking

Recent Profile Visitors

2,027 profile views
  1. i think you are correct in thinking that the paint is not dry, especially where the globs are from the previous coat. i would scrape, gently, any obvious thick spots or globs and wait till its all perfectly dry.
  2. i'm with @RichardA, 400 would be my top dollar, it looks well used and i think its an older model, i think you will end up throwing money at it but at 400 you do have some room for whatever issues it has. also, 2hp sounds light for that saw especially a 220v one, i think those were 3hp at a minimum. i would have to hear it run, check bearings ect. and go from there.
  3. i was referring to the slats and i may have used the wrong term, on the ends of the slats i think that would actually be called stub tenon and groove is what i was referring to, if you are going to make your own true tongue and groove there is a router bit set for that or you can make them on the table saw, either way after they are planed and jointed, sorry for the confusion, i happens when i haven't had enough coffee, and most other times too!
  4. i like to have all similar tools grouped together, chisels on the wall, planes in a drawer as are pocket hole, drills and drivers, saws, routers and bits in the same place (drawer), drawer for sandpaper and sanders. what i don't like is that i am not making good use of the limited wall space i have and hope to correct that this spring.
  5. i don't own a domino (yet) i think it won't be long before domino owners will chime in on their use in this situation, looks like a nice table.
  6. welcome to the forum bcd, whats the joinery for the slats? T&G? do some research here on breadboard ends to allow for movement and i would peg or pin the slats in the middle of the boards to keep them in place. i don't see a problem with your design, whats the method for constructing the apron and legs?
  7. Eric, you've got to stop holding your feelings in and tell @Derek_PNW what you really think ! glad to see you back for a comment or two. @Derek_PNW listen to Eric and Steve great advice.
  8. thats too bad, I've always wanted to see them.
  9. i never measured mine Coop but the ones from the big box stores do work, i suspect they are not exactly 12X24, its a tight fit but they work.
  10. great save Ice, and your sharpening skills are first rate.
  11. Menards has the 12X24X1 at my store, as for the sock thing inside i blow it out with a leaf blower as best as i can and then take a garden hose to it and let it dry, any other suggestions would be welcome.
  12. yep, a couple coats of shellac is all i do to pre-finish.
  13. wow! all day and no arguments, never happen at my house. two at a time would work. are you going to use anything for alignment such as biscuits or domino? if not i would use some cauls to keep them lined up, also how are you planning to deal with the voids in the wood as i assume this is the top we are looking at? looks like you have a good start and welcome to the forum. looking forward to more pictures as you progress.
  14. thanks for letting us tag along Wade, you're doing exactly what any woodworking father would have done, salute to you sir!
  15. if it keeps giving you trouble the other alternative is to cut a guide from scrap and use a flush trim bit in your router.