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About Merlau

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  • Woodworking Interests
    all aspects of woodworking, primarily furniture and cabinetry
  1. paul are you up for identifying a piece of late 1700 to early 1800 door frame. its hard and heavy real dark color i have a cross section but no face grain
  2. i have used latex paint in a pinch but prefer anchorseal. like others have said dont wait to long to do it and when cut sticker well
  3. they make some pretty large bags, i have seen stairway sides in a bag. i have seen some paper back veneer put on with contact cement but i am not saying that is the best way to do it.
  4. my vote, would lean towards pecan over the hickory to get the reddish tone, hickory is more towards the brown side.
  5. sorry you didnt get the same results.. maybe i shouldnt have posted the info or question?
  6. well estes, i got the right person i quess.. got all the parts today,, and no charge.. so i am pleased that they were so good about the whole ordeal.
  7. late to the party i agree with the rest on the radius height and was how i done it on the pieces i have made that had them. nice work on your table.
  8. i am wanting to have approximately a small 1/8th over hang on the face frame over the cabinet side, biscuit joiner gets the side of the cabinet just fine, center on thickness, but is there a slick way of getting my offset on the face frame slot? other than adjusting the plate on the biscuit jointer? spacer perhaps?
  9. thanks guys and gee dub that was what i remember seeing but had never made one..i knew about the smaller size of plywood but thanks for the reminder treeslayer
  10. ok didnt think of the obvious could use mating piece for the spacing to get right fit then, does that sound logical?
  11. has any one here got a dado jig they made that works well? i have a situation where my table saw doesnt have enough room or support to handle it.. could scribe and cut by hand but rather use a router .. seen it done in some old magazines but never had to do that way now i do.. dadoing plywood. pictures would be good to see how to make it.
  12. i have the phenolic top and love it, i agree that without support anything can sag. i have a incra table insert with a master lift connected to it.. and powered with the MILWAUKEE 5625‑20 .. works great and have had it for a few year now, the early wood pecker insert plates were really good with the aluminum inserts but they went to plastic now.. i have had the phenolic top for 12 yrs and it has done well. ,
  13. not sure what you decided on for boards or how you are going to use them but you could fill the center gap with a piece from another slab that was cut to the shape of the center gap , basically scribbing to each piece on the side it will butt to. some fill the area with foreign stuff like turquoise and such and to me that detracts from the wood.
  14. mine were the older version, and they told me they do loose there grip after years of use, but could still replace with black parts which i assume are from the older models they seem to be all yellow now, but hey if they work again all is good and to warrantee a old product says a lot for the company.
  15. i sent a email and they responded this AM , they are going to take care of the problem:) send model no. and address and they send replacement parts.. good company service for sure..