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About mlingenfelter

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 05/19/1963

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Bothell, Wa
  • Woodworking Interests
    * Hand Tools
    * Power Tools
    * Design
  1. Thanks for the constructive criticism. At least those that had something to say, said why, I can except that. I also know Greene & Greene isn't for everyone, but I like the style and it works well in our "library". Woodworker100, I used Sapele on the chairs. I considered leather, but it was going to be pricey to have someone do. I can deal with fabric myself, and you have many more choices of color and patterns. I don't know how much I need yet, but it's really not much.
  2. I thought I would share these photos of a couple Morris Chairs I built in the Greene & Greene style. I really like how they came out. I took some heat for my design, from the people over on the Yahoo Greene & Greene forum. I guess I'm up for some more abuse, because I'm posting this again. The chairs are basically finished, I just have to get the cushions made. My sister is good with the sawing machine and she said she would give me a helping hand. We just need to get out find the fabric we want. I'm not sure what Marc has planned for his cushions, but I found this site that has some good information and you can order foam from them. Pictures:!20084&authkey=!AIGpsYI64E8rerY&ithint=folder%2c.JPG
  3. I've used Douglas Fir on my last two benches, and is now the wood of choice for my benches. It's "cheap", stiff, stable, and it also looks great as it ages. As far as I'm concerned, dents don't effect bench "performance". Having a wood that is easy to plane is a big plus, when it comes to flatting your top. Mike
  4. I have a special treat for us this month. I've been talking with John Kettman, a local professional woodworker about a shop visit. He's agreed to a visit but at Pratt, a school in Seattle. John is trying to get a Veneering and Marquetry program started at Pratt. Maybe this visit will inspire some of you to sign up for his class. John will do a Marquetry demo, which will include information on working with: veneers, protein glues, and the Chevalet. He has an opening on Oct 20, which is a Sunday. We usually meet on Saturdays, but this particular Sunday John was available. We will meet at Pratt at 1:00pm and the demo could last 2 hours. The Demo will in the Woodworking Studio. Pratt's Web Site John's Web Site Information on the Chevalet Directions to Pratt (Woodworking Studio) 1902 South Main Street Seattle, WA 98144!q=1902+South+Main+Street+Seattle%2C+WA+98144&data=!1m4!1m3!1d3258!2d-122.3072163!3d47.6000099!4m15!2m14!1m13!1s0x54906ac1df7a38f7%3A0x7a8fe7cc53d8b382!3m8!1m3!1d52810!2d-118.9449705!3d34.18111!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!4m2!3d47.6000161!4d-122.3072161
  5. It is chunky but I've been saying it's "big-boned" . It weighs a ton and stays put!
  6. I didn't build a Split-Top, but I made my bench from (2) 6x12 Douglas Fir boards. I couldn't be happier with how it came out. I think it's been close to a year now, and I haven't had any issues with wood moment. I should take some updated pictures, but here are a few pictures as I was building it.
  7. I was lazy and never preorder his book. I just ordered it yesterday, I'm looking forward to getting it. I'm also looking forward to him releasing more videos, to go along with the new book.
  8. I agree, after just a little bit of practice I was cutting pretty good dovetails. Of the "basic" joints, I think the hardest to cut by hand, is the Mortise and Tenon. I haven't cut one yet that hasn't needed some level of "adjustment". The large surface area of a M&T isn't that forgiving.
  9. For that style of plane, I think David's book is the best. I've made a couple planes like this and love the planes. David also has companion DVDs that go into a lot of detail, that is in the book. The book and DVDs work well together. Mike
  10. I bought a PM1500 back in May, so I haven't had a lot of time with it yet. I bought it really for resawing, but I have only tested it with the "small" blade that came with the saw. Even with that blade, the saw it did a really good job. I have some new blades I still need to test, but I only expect the cut quality to be even better. The saw is amazingly quite and smooth running. I don't know why but most Bandsaws makers really cheap out on their fence, but Powermatic doesn't. I really like Powermatic's fence, it's solid without weighing a ton. The fence is also easy to adjust. It's Powermatic, so the saw is big and heavy, and the fit and finish are the best. No regrets buying this saw, and I will put Powermatic at the top of my list, for any other tool I might replace. I looked at Laguna and Mini Max, both make nice saws. I looked at Laguan's SUV, because of the price and features. Then I used the saw in a class I took, and found out I really don't like the low table on the saw. I felt I was having to bend over when using the saw and I'm 5' 11'. If you are taller, try the saw out first if you can. There is about a 4.5" difference in table height, between the SUV and PM1500. I think it's how Laguna squeezed in the extra resaw captivity without making the saw bigger. It might not bother some people but I didn't like it. Mini Max might have been #2 on my list, but I had a hard time convincing myself to spend that much money, and not being able to see the saw in person before buying.
  11. Welcome! Very nice cabinet. Be sure to share more pictures when you finish the new stand. Mike
  12. I'm still working out the details on the McKinnon Furniture Shop tour but I don't think we will have things figured out by this weekend. For now I thought we could visit their showroom. This Saturday May 18, lets meet at their showroom at 11:00am (see location information below). There are quite a few places to eat down in that area, so I'll take a poll that day on where people want to eat. If you plan to make it this weekend, let me know I will keep an eye out for you. If we haven't met yet, look for me and others wearing MWA T-Shirts. Address: McKinnon Furniture 1201 Western Avenue, Suite 100 Seattle, WA 98101 Upcoming June Meetup: I know this close to our upcoming May 18 meetup, but Darrell Peart is having a book signing for his new book "In the Greene & Greene Style - Projects and Details for the Woodworker" on June 1. I thought we could make this a MWA meetup. It will be at his shop, so I'm thinking we will get a shop tour at the same time. Mark your calendars. We will do a lunch or something afterwards. Where: 9824 30thAve SW Seattle WA 98126 The shop is the grey building down the driveway on the south side of the property. When: June 1st 11 AM – 3PM
  13. I don't think "Plastic handle" a fair description of the handle. Yes, it's a man made material, it more like Corian. Personally the handle felt very nice in the hand, it didn't feel "cheap" at all. Mike .
  14. I owned one of Rob's Dovetails saws. I can say it a very nice saw and cut amazing well. I still have and used the LN dovetail saw before buying Rob's saw. Cut quality I would give to Rob's saw, it left a much nicer "finish" then the LN. Although I never had an issue with the LN cut quality when assembling my dovetails. The saw truly is a dream when starting the cut. One of the selling points Rob uses for his saw, is the added weight of his saw. Yes I think the added weight does help speed the cut. Although after using it for awhile, it's the weight that started to bother me. I think if I hadn't used other dovetail saws before, I would have stayed with the saw and been very happy with it. Because the saw is of a high quality and in demand, I was able to sell it on eBay for almost as much as I paid for it. Each person has to decide what is a value to them, I felt it was worth the price when I bought it.
  15. I just flatten my bench, using Marc's approach. I think 3/4" boards should work fine. Just remember, the router is likely to "bump" into the rails. I would just be careful not to go all the way through the "thinner" rails. Although it wouldn't be the that bad, as long you don't create a gap the sled will have issues with. You could also glue up some 3/4" boards to make a thicker rail. I just wouldn't use any nails, because the router could cut into them. Mike