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gee-dub last won the day on December 31 2016

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About gee-dub

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    Furniture for your home, Exaggerated Joinery, Greene and Greene

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  1. Glad you got that worked through and the drawer unit looks good. This craft is an ongoing learning experience and that's a lot of the attraction for many. The likelihood of a home center having Baltic Birch plywood is non-existent around here. At my yard I can get 60" x 60" sheets in two grades; B/BB with a clear front face / patches allowed on the back and BB/BB with patches allowed on both faces. The real deal is identifiable (but not absolutely) by an odd number of plys with the outer plys being nice and thick with the grain oriented in the same direction front and back. This is B/BB right off the table saw using a box joint jig and a Freud SD-508 dado stack. I did not use a backer board but, the jig has a replaceable backer insert that handles that. I also do not count on my grip being adequate and use a clamp to hold that material against the rear fence/backer. I make my fingers a smidge long so I can sand them flush. I have never had any of the BB ply I get around here look like what you are working with. I have done similar joinery on lesser types of plywood. To avoid tear out and delamination I sandwich the "keeper" between two pieces of scrap. Except for any voids in the material that cause blowout this pretty well tames the ragged results.
  2. Although this will vary greatly with what sort of things you are trying to market, here's some food for thought. When a family member started his business (auto repair and restoration) he did his research and focused on a large radius from his location. Turns out you can get a Porsche, Mercedes or a BMW fixed anywhere. He focused on Jaguar, Aston Martin, Ferrari and the like. He has a much smaller customer base but, his customers are more affluent, better educated and appreciate quality and value at the more esoteric end of the spectrum. After about 30 years he sold off the repair and restoration business keeping the parts and supplies end for another decade. The point is, if you make a bathroom vanity that looks like something that can be had from the BORG, you are competing with the BORG. If you make something that looks like it was custom made by <insert your favorite here> then you are competing at another level. I price my pieces in the range of similar items in the area and keep busy. If no one in your area is making or offering that sort of item, you have the challenge of selling via photos and shipping large cumbersome pieces. Look at your area, look at your competition and position yourself accordingly. If nothing lines up with what really floats your boat about the craft in your area, you could always just enjoy being an enthusiastic hobbyist that occasionally sells something. This is how I see myself, at least until I quit my day job ;-)
  3. If you mean the height relative to the height of the drawer, I usually place them in the middle. If you mean height as far as the height of the slide, I make it to fit the groove like a glove so that tipping isn't really a problem on short drawers. "Kickers" can be installed just above the drawer box sides so that if the drawer tries to drop, the sides hit the kicker and ride on out.
  4. Now that is a good store manager working to connect with his customer base; kudos to him. Since you don't really have anything to compare it to, just focus on how the plane feels and performs for you. Regardless of what any of us offer as opinion, if the tool or method works for you, it works. In a forum environment you will sometimes pick up "opinions" based on a narrow comparison band. Take me for instance, I can only comment from experience on Millers Falls, Stanley, Lie Nielsen, Veritas and some 'also rans' like Ohio and Union. If I am offering an opinion on a Wood River plane I have no basis for it. Alas, a sample of one is no sample at all.
  5. I make mine adjustable. Oversize through holes and counter bores allow the pan head screw and washer to set in and still allow adjustment. Washer head screws would do fine as well. This also allows them to be removed for planning if required but, you should really do that before you start attaching things ;-) Once aligned, screws in the smaller holes fix the guide in place.
  6. I use a fair amount of Seal Coat and have for many years. I don't know that I have ever found one coat to be sufficient (probably because I missed a spot or went too thin somewhere) but, certainly I have stopped at two. I have also done many more but, the previous coat was always dry and the coat going on was always thin. I imagine the general warning is against thick coats of shellac which holds true for all variants as far as I have read. / heard. Shellac is a film finish and is does build to some degree. If you are after a 4 mil top coat (or even thicker) a varnish or poly blend would probably serve you better. For sealing the insides of carcasses, small projects, drawer boxes and so even shop jigs, Seal Coat is my go-to. I'll temper this with the fact that I think Jeff J. is 'the man' when it comes to finishing.
  7. We can only do what we can do. I use the time I spend saving up for something in researching and reviewing the candidates so I can move confidently when the time comes. Many folks enjoy restoring old machines, I do not. I have limited shop time and I want to spend it woodworking. I did start out with used machines because I wasn't sure if my return to woodworking was going to stick. By the time I had the used tools working at a level I was happy with I had spent nearly what a new tool would have cost. However, since I wasn't sure, this process worked for me (although more costly in the end). I would pick a small project, focus on the tools required to do that project and work toward getting workable versions of those tools. If things move along nicely you can repeat the process while expanding your work. It is easy to get caught up in getting the lighting just right when you aren't yet sure of what you will do or how you will do it when t comes to the craft. Start small, stay focused, it will work out.
  8. Darn, I forgot the cars!!! Ok, 10 is indeed a normal amount.
  9. Welcome. Always glad to have a new voice . . . and pics. We love pictures
  10. The Dial-a-Width has fit problems on several saws. It is why I went with a stack. The Dial-a-Width feature could be handy but, it was not to be ;-( Only you can decide if the feature, how often you will use it and so forth are worth a mod to your saw.
  11. Yeah, it took me about 90 seconds to realize I hadn't said thank you . . . I hadn't said anything . . . I was in shock . . . I just kept staring at it with my mouth hanging open.
  12. Good deal collinb, a respirator is the best defense until if and when you move to something else. As mentioned before, my efforts were too little too late and I now have to wear a respirator for almost any hand work which is really the pits. I gladly slap on the respirator in addition to my other collectors when doing really messy stuff but, far rasping a table leg!?! What a pain.
  13. +1 on the LAJ. I went that way for a few reasons. Lots of good reports for it as a shooter for those of us who don't have a bevy of planes. It took the same iron as the jointer and smoother I was considering (and eventually bought). Unforeseen bonus . . . the same iron size is used in the shooter I received as a gift. I now have a variety of irons for any of the planes mentioned. This really ramped up the value for me. The LAJ still gets a reasonable amount of use even though I now have dedicated jointer, smoother and shooter options. If it ever falls into disuse, the resale value is good and someone else can benefit too.
  14. Where are you located. If you're near me you can stop by and try a few things out.
  15. New? No. That being said I have a few older Millers Falls, I think the most expensive one was about $45 and it came in the original box and looked like this: My No 4's and No 5 are Millers Falls and they tune up great.