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About gee-dub

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    Furniture for your home, Exaggerated Joinery, Greene and Greene
  1. Woodsmith allows you to download all the issues you have paid for if you buy the "Woodsmith Library". the library also contains historical issues if you bought the archives CD. Their search engine is quite well developed. Search for Arts and Crafts Dining table and you get all articles from any of the issues you have rights to. Fine Woodworking allows you to download anything from the mags as a PDF but, they are not organized as a magazine per-se since doing that in an online vehicle would be kind of silly. Their search engine is much improved from their previous version. I would have to think that was a number one peeve when they surveyed current subscribers prior to the rebuild.
  2. They do have some diamonds in the rough. Their price on link belts is better than most and they carry a name brand. I use their f-style clamps to make holddowns. I have run one of their 23 gauge pin nailers for years. I also have a Grex but, use both. I use the rubber coated cotton gloves they have on sale for about a buck a pair for lumber handling. A pair lasts me about a year. I have wasted money on anything they carry that requires precision or a valid cutting edge . I have a $14 sawzall that I bought to demolish some garage fixtures. It sounds like it is eating itself alive and I expect every use to be its last . . . I've expected this for over a decade. I modified a couple of their aluminum bar clamps and made them functional (wouldn't bother with them again but, that's me). Their c-clamps go on sale stupid-cheap and its nice to have a pair of a few sizes. Their air fittings leave something to be desired but, a friend has run one of their air compressors for nearly 10 years without issue. Cheap, replaceable coiled air hose whips are a winner as long as your expectations are correct. I made a height gauge out of one of their cheap digital calipers. Their dial indicator has assisted with all my machine setups for about $10.
  3. Hardwood will serve you better for rails. Rails on the carcass is more traditional than rails on the drawers but, I have seen it done. If the rails are on the drawer box there is no way to hide the access opening to allow the rail into the carcass(???). I am not sure how well this will play out. I use oversized through and counterbore holes in a couple of places which allows adjustment. Once adjusted I use well fit holes to add more screws. Here's what I mean about the rail being able to be hidden if attached to the carcass. The grooves on the drawer can be 'stopped' to hide the whole deal when the drawer is closed.
  4. Since we're wandering far afield anyway . . . I have empirical evidence to the contrary. MIL is on her third washer in as many years yet my 20 year old Maytag just keeps washing clothes.
  5. Good price for the saw but, not a good saw for the task. Your desperate need will only partially be quenched I'm afraid. A used Contractor format saw can be found for that price or less and will be better suited to your needs, more adaptable to after-market or shop made accessories. As to making your own fence. Shop built is fine but, your accuracy is only as good as your tube stock. If you can't true or mill the faces of your fence tube you will have to settle for however it came out. The VSCT method can solve this but, by the time you make the head, buy the milled 80/20 and put it all together, you can just about buy an after market fence You'll have to do the math on that one and weigh it against the potential outcome. Enjoy the journey.
  6. Something one does with twine.
  7. Not a problem for me. My Luchese's are dustier than the top of a fridge.
  8. Not yet. Still holding the line at a 36" waist but the older I get the tougher it is .
  9. I see no gain. Maybe it would make it easier to get in any nooks and crannies but, how much of that is there. The work of cleaning the gun would offset any gain as far as I can see. You have to touch EVERYWHERE to wipe off the excess (and generally more than once) anyway. I hand finish bedroom sets; its not as bad as you fear ;-)
  10. I have today off so I spent a few hours in the shop taking care of a Honey-Do. A full closet rebuild is on the horizon but, the "belt mess" became a priority. This might qualify as up-cycling since I am cannibalizing a tie rack (haven't had a suit and tie job for over a decade). I mill a couple of pieces of maple with a beveled face, a channel in the back and a row of holes. My little MF No. 9 cleans up the machine marks. Give them a coat or two of shellac while I mount the glide in the closet. By the time I get back I can carry on (don't you just love shellac?). As stated, this tie rack contributes the posts. Ready, set, go . . . Now there better not be a change of mind about the closet fixtures being maple . On to more drab domestic chores.
  11. Very cool Jim. Nice write up and how to. Thanks for that.
  12. You align the blade to the miter slot. Then you align the fence to the SAME miter slot. The little jig slides in the miter slot and shows you the relation of your fence to the slot. With the dial indicator you are just checking for the "difference". You don't care that something is .011" away; you just care that you start at .011" and don't see a difference of more than .001" between the points you are checking. Most fences have a pretty decent alignment method or at least loosen for alignment and then can be re-tightened. Most dial indicators have a rotating bezel that allows you to put the "zero" wherever you want to start. Once you are pretty true to the miter slot (and therefor the blade) you can check the deviation of your fence faces over the length of the slot. My Saw Stop faces were wavy to .005" along the length. It was easy to shim the "low" spots with tape between the fence tube and face to get to .001" along the length. Say goodbye to saw marks, binding and burning due to alignment problems.
  13. This could save you if you forget to leave room at the rear of a cabinet for a french cleat; very low profile. The alignment would be a lot more fussy so I wouldn't want to do a lot of them. For the occasional wall cabinet they would be fine. I have used these before as well.
  14. I'm a couple hours north of you. Knowing that moisture triggers CA to cure I put my various CA glues in a "Food Saver" vacuum seal container and store them on a shelf in my home office. I used to toss partially used containers of CA out frequently including the premium stuff. Really ticked me off. Since I started vac-sealing them I run the containers near to empty. I should have kept track and figured out how much money I'm saving. Not a fortune but, certainly not insignificant. I open the container and take out the glue I need. When I'm done for the day I re-seal the container. Easy-peasy.
  15. Threadjack Alert I use a fair amount of figured material so I may do more card scraping than the next guy. I find card scraper holders fairly useless. The scraper plane is a super-refined scraper holder with a large, flat reference sole and fine adjustments. It comes in handy but, it is not used on every project. For scraping on larger panels it helps me avoid card-scraping irregularities into the surface. It also excels at cleaning up glue lines but, this activity increases your sharpening interval. The iron is stout and with a good hook on it you can get a very nice surface right across things like curly or birds eye maple. Sharpening requires the same basic skills as putting a hook on a card scraper. I only mention this because others have asked if a scraper plane is easier to use than a card scraper. After some discussion we found that what they were really asking is "will this solve the troubles I have sharpening my card scrapers"; it will not. It is fair to say that I am glad to have it. It is also fair to say that it would not be on my short list of hand tools required to establish a decent plane till. A very well made and versatile tool for its purpose. I wouldn't hesitate to pick one up if you do a lot of larger panel scraping.