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Everything posted by gee-dub

  1. Glad you got that worked through and the drawer unit looks good. This craft is an ongoing learning experience and that's a lot of the attraction for many. The likelihood of a home center having Baltic Birch plywood is non-existent around here. At my yard I can get 60" x 60" sheets in two grades; B/BB with a clear front face / patches allowed on the back and BB/BB with patches allowed on both faces. The real deal is identifiable (but not absolutely) by an odd number of plys with the outer plys being nice and thick with the grain oriented in the same direction front and back. This is B/BB right off the table saw using a box joint jig and a Freud SD-508 dado stack. I did not use a backer board but, the jig has a replaceable backer insert that handles that. I also do not count on my grip being adequate and use a clamp to hold that material against the rear fence/backer. I make my fingers a smidge long so I can sand them flush. I have never had any of the BB ply I get around here look like what you are working with. I have done similar joinery on lesser types of plywood. To avoid tear out and delamination I sandwich the "keeper" between two pieces of scrap. Except for any voids in the material that cause blowout this pretty well tames the ragged results.
  2. Although this will vary greatly with what sort of things you are trying to market, here's some food for thought. When a family member started his business (auto repair and restoration) he did his research and focused on a large radius from his location. Turns out you can get a Porsche, Mercedes or a BMW fixed anywhere. He focused on Jaguar, Aston Martin, Ferrari and the like. He has a much smaller customer base but, his customers are more affluent, better educated and appreciate quality and value at the more esoteric end of the spectrum. After about 30 years he sold off the repair and restoration business keeping the parts and supplies end for another decade. The point is, if you make a bathroom vanity that looks like something that can be had from the BORG, you are competing with the BORG. If you make something that looks like it was custom made by <insert your favorite here> then you are competing at another level. I price my pieces in the range of similar items in the area and keep busy. If no one in your area is making or offering that sort of item, you have the challenge of selling via photos and shipping large cumbersome pieces. Look at your area, look at your competition and position yourself accordingly. If nothing lines up with what really floats your boat about the craft in your area, you could always just enjoy being an enthusiastic hobbyist that occasionally sells something. This is how I see myself, at least until I quit my day job ;-)
  3. If you mean the height relative to the height of the drawer, I usually place them in the middle. If you mean height as far as the height of the slide, I make it to fit the groove like a glove so that tipping isn't really a problem on short drawers. "Kickers" can be installed just above the drawer box sides so that if the drawer tries to drop, the sides hit the kicker and ride on out.
  4. Now that is a good store manager working to connect with his customer base; kudos to him. Since you don't really have anything to compare it to, just focus on how the plane feels and performs for you. Regardless of what any of us offer as opinion, if the tool or method works for you, it works. In a forum environment you will sometimes pick up "opinions" based on a narrow comparison band. Take me for instance, I can only comment from experience on Millers Falls, Stanley, Lie Nielsen, Veritas and some 'also rans' like Ohio and Union. If I am offering an opinion on a Wood River plane I have no basis for it. Alas, a sample of one is no sample at all.
  5. I make mine adjustable. Oversize through holes and counter bores allow the pan head screw and washer to set in and still allow adjustment. Washer head screws would do fine as well. This also allows them to be removed for planning if required but, you should really do that before you start attaching things ;-) Once aligned, screws in the smaller holes fix the guide in place.
  6. I use a fair amount of Seal Coat and have for many years. I don't know that I have ever found one coat to be sufficient (probably because I missed a spot or went too thin somewhere) but, certainly I have stopped at two. I have also done many more but, the previous coat was always dry and the coat going on was always thin. I imagine the general warning is against thick coats of shellac which holds true for all variants as far as I have read. / heard. Shellac is a film finish and is does build to some degree. If you are after a 4 mil top coat (or even thicker) a varnish or poly blend would probably serve you better. For sealing the insides of carcasses, small projects, drawer boxes and so even shop jigs, Seal Coat is my go-to. I'll temper this with the fact that I think Jeff J. is 'the man' when it comes to finishing.
  7. We can only do what we can do. I use the time I spend saving up for something in researching and reviewing the candidates so I can move confidently when the time comes. Many folks enjoy restoring old machines, I do not. I have limited shop time and I want to spend it woodworking. I did start out with used machines because I wasn't sure if my return to woodworking was going to stick. By the time I had the used tools working at a level I was happy with I had spent nearly what a new tool would have cost. However, since I wasn't sure, this process worked for me (although more costly in the end). I would pick a small project, focus on the tools required to do that project and work toward getting workable versions of those tools. If things move along nicely you can repeat the process while expanding your work. It is easy to get caught up in getting the lighting just right when you aren't yet sure of what you will do or how you will do it when t comes to the craft. Start small, stay focused, it will work out.
  8. Darn, I forgot the cars!!! Ok, 10 is indeed a normal amount.
  9. Welcome. Always glad to have a new voice . . . and pics. We love pictures
  10. The Dial-a-Width has fit problems on several saws. It is why I went with a stack. The Dial-a-Width feature could be handy but, it was not to be ;-( Only you can decide if the feature, how often you will use it and so forth are worth a mod to your saw.
  11. Yeah, it took me about 90 seconds to realize I hadn't said thank you . . . I hadn't said anything . . . I was in shock . . . I just kept staring at it with my mouth hanging open.
  12. Good deal collinb, a respirator is the best defense until if and when you move to something else. As mentioned before, my efforts were too little too late and I now have to wear a respirator for almost any hand work which is really the pits. I gladly slap on the respirator in addition to my other collectors when doing really messy stuff but, far rasping a table leg!?! What a pain.
  13. +1 on the LAJ. I went that way for a few reasons. Lots of good reports for it as a shooter for those of us who don't have a bevy of planes. It took the same iron as the jointer and smoother I was considering (and eventually bought). Unforeseen bonus . . . the same iron size is used in the shooter I received as a gift. I now have a variety of irons for any of the planes mentioned. This really ramped up the value for me. The LAJ still gets a reasonable amount of use even though I now have dedicated jointer, smoother and shooter options. If it ever falls into disuse, the resale value is good and someone else can benefit too.
  14. Where are you located. If you're near me you can stop by and try a few things out.
  15. New? No. That being said I have a few older Millers Falls, I think the most expensive one was about $45 and it came in the original box and looked like this: My No 4's and No 5 are Millers Falls and they tune up great.
  16. Let's see, one at the tablesaw with magnet to stick it to the fence next to the pencil, One at the bench, one in my little pouch I wear when breaking down parts, one by the cut-off bins, one in the office, one in the bedroom, one in the kitchen . . . Nope, 7 is normal, 10 is wayyyy out of line.
  17. Here's a better look at some of mine.
  18. I do this often. The trick is to have a tongue that is 1/32" or so shy of the narrow slots depth. That way if you over tighten, the bolt head compresses the wooden t-slot only so far before hitting the tongue. I have t-slots cut into MDF that have been in use for a decade without failure.. I am away from my own computer but, you can sort of see what I am talking about in this pic.
  19. I use an old Delta that looks mysteriously similar to the SuperMax for my jointer exclusively. It did not do the job however until I bought a properly scaled top bag from American Fabric Filter and there goes some more money. Going cheap on dust collection can be very expensive in the long run in health care costs. I was lucky, I only have to take medication daily for the rest of my days. It is unfortunate that one has to hit the point of no return before they start making noise about air quality. As you can see, I already sound like some zeolite . Back to your question, if a 1HP unit isn't doing the job, I doubt either of these units will be a big step up. The HF has a 2HP rated motor and a lot of folks that go with it after a shop vac or a Rockler Dust Right setup are impressed. However, the impeller is small and the 1HP SuperMax may even be superior. Will it be enough of a difference to warrant the cost is only one question. Do you vent your exhaust back into your work space? If so, a standard bag filter is more of a dust spreader than a filter. If you need to breathe your return air you need to catch much smaller fish. And so begins the sleigh ride. If you filter the air adequately, that filter will require maintenance very frequently if you do not have a pre-separator of some sort. Bolting a separator onto a system that is not designed for one puts a big hit on airflow so your system must be oversized in order to compensate. Like trying to make a cab saw out of a contractor saw; often after throwing more money at the original than a proper solution would have cost, you are still left with a somewhat suboptimal rig. All that being said, do the best that you can afford right away when it comes to dust collection. If you have to Franken-collector the thing over time, so be it. Using something sub-par (or worse, nothing) is too costly in the long run.
  20. Sanding a smooth fair curve and a soft surface don't really go together. The result can get kind of "doughy" looking and ill defined. That is; a softer surface may prevent faceting a curve but, material control may be a better option. That being said I did rig this thing up to get a ROS effect on smaller parts once the curve was established at the disc sander.
  21. Welcome. I know nothing about boats either but, I know something beautiful when I see it and the Royal Tudor is a beauty.
  22. You know, I almost hate it that my phone takes better pictures than my SLR.
  23. OT but, what did you take those pictures with?
  24. Amen to that. I can hardly stand to watch glue set up. I always have 2 or 3 projects going. One large piece and a couple smaller efforts. If I reach a stopping point on one item (parts in the clamps, shellac wash coat drying, etc.) I just shift over to another. Idle time is the devil's workshop, especially since I don't watch TV.
  25. Right, way too many teeth for ripping material that thick. I have a 3HP saw and a 30 tooth rip for most things. For thicker stock I still put a 24 tooth TK cutter on. Easier on the saw, the material and me ;-)