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Everything posted by gee-dub

  1. Woodsmith allows you to download all the issues you have paid for if you buy the "Woodsmith Library". the library also contains historical issues if you bought the archives CD. Their search engine is quite well developed. Search for Arts and Crafts Dining table and you get all articles from any of the issues you have rights to. Fine Woodworking allows you to download anything from the mags as a PDF but, they are not organized as a magazine per-se since doing that in an online vehicle would be kind of silly. Their search engine is much improved from their previous version. I would have to think that was a number one peeve when they surveyed current subscribers prior to the rebuild.
  2. They do have some diamonds in the rough. Their price on link belts is better than most and they carry a name brand. I use their f-style clamps to make holddowns. I have run one of their 23 gauge pin nailers for years. I also have a Grex but, use both. I use the rubber coated cotton gloves they have on sale for about a buck a pair for lumber handling. A pair lasts me about a year. I have wasted money on anything they carry that requires precision or a valid cutting edge . I have a $14 sawzall that I bought to demolish some garage fixtures. It sounds like it is eating itself alive and I expect every use to be its last . . . I've expected this for over a decade. I modified a couple of their aluminum bar clamps and made them functional (wouldn't bother with them again but, that's me). Their c-clamps go on sale stupid-cheap and its nice to have a pair of a few sizes. Their air fittings leave something to be desired but, a friend has run one of their air compressors for nearly 10 years without issue. Cheap, replaceable coiled air hose whips are a winner as long as your expectations are correct. I made a height gauge out of one of their cheap digital calipers. Their dial indicator has assisted with all my machine setups for about $10.
  3. Hardwood will serve you better for rails. Rails on the carcass is more traditional than rails on the drawers but, I have seen it done. If the rails are on the drawer box there is no way to hide the access opening to allow the rail into the carcass(???). I am not sure how well this will play out. I use oversized through and counterbore holes in a couple of places which allows adjustment. Once adjusted I use well fit holes to add more screws. Here's what I mean about the rail being able to be hidden if attached to the carcass. The grooves on the drawer can be 'stopped' to hide the whole deal when the drawer is closed.
  4. Since we're wandering far afield anyway . . . I have empirical evidence to the contrary. MIL is on her third washer in as many years yet my 20 year old Maytag just keeps washing clothes.
  5. Good price for the saw but, not a good saw for the task. Your desperate need will only partially be quenched I'm afraid. A used Contractor format saw can be found for that price or less and will be better suited to your needs, more adaptable to after-market or shop made accessories. As to making your own fence. Shop built is fine but, your accuracy is only as good as your tube stock. If you can't true or mill the faces of your fence tube you will have to settle for however it came out. The VSCT method can solve this but, by the time you make the head, buy the milled 80/20 and put it all together, you can just about buy an after market fence You'll have to do the math on that one and weigh it against the potential outcome. Enjoy the journey.
  6. Something one does with twine.
  7. I have today off so I spent a few hours in the shop taking care of a Honey-Do. A full closet rebuild is on the horizon but, the "belt mess" became a priority. This might qualify as up-cycling since I am cannibalizing a tie rack (haven't had a suit and tie job for over a decade). I mill a couple of pieces of maple with a beveled face, a channel in the back and a row of holes. My little MF No. 9 cleans up the machine marks. Give them a coat or two of shellac while I mount the glide in the closet. By the time I get back I can carry on (don't you just love shellac?). As stated, this tie rack contributes the posts. Ready, set, go . . . Now there better not be a change of mind about the closet fixtures being maple . On to more drab domestic chores.
  8. Not a problem for me. My Luchese's are dustier than the top of a fridge.
  9. Not yet. Still holding the line at a 36" waist but the older I get the tougher it is .
  10. I see no gain. Maybe it would make it easier to get in any nooks and crannies but, how much of that is there. The work of cleaning the gun would offset any gain as far as I can see. You have to touch EVERYWHERE to wipe off the excess (and generally more than once) anyway. I hand finish bedroom sets; its not as bad as you fear ;-)
  11. Very cool Jim. Nice write up and how to. Thanks for that.
  12. You align the blade to the miter slot. Then you align the fence to the SAME miter slot. The little jig slides in the miter slot and shows you the relation of your fence to the slot. With the dial indicator you are just checking for the "difference". You don't care that something is .011" away; you just care that you start at .011" and don't see a difference of more than .001" between the points you are checking. Most fences have a pretty decent alignment method or at least loosen for alignment and then can be re-tightened. Most dial indicators have a rotating bezel that allows you to put the "zero" wherever you want to start. Once you are pretty true to the miter slot (and therefor the blade) you can check the deviation of your fence faces over the length of the slot. My Saw Stop faces were wavy to .005" along the length. It was easy to shim the "low" spots with tape between the fence tube and face to get to .001" along the length. Say goodbye to saw marks, binding and burning due to alignment problems.
  13. This could save you if you forget to leave room at the rear of a cabinet for a french cleat; very low profile. The alignment would be a lot more fussy so I wouldn't want to do a lot of them. For the occasional wall cabinet they would be fine. I have used these before as well.
  14. I'm a couple hours north of you. Knowing that moisture triggers CA to cure I put my various CA glues in a "Food Saver" vacuum seal container and store them on a shelf in my home office. I used to toss partially used containers of CA out frequently including the premium stuff. Really ticked me off. Since I started vac-sealing them I run the containers near to empty. I should have kept track and figured out how much money I'm saving. Not a fortune but, certainly not insignificant. I open the container and take out the glue I need. When I'm done for the day I re-seal the container. Easy-peasy.
  15. Threadjack Alert I use a fair amount of figured material so I may do more card scraping than the next guy. I find card scraper holders fairly useless. The scraper plane is a super-refined scraper holder with a large, flat reference sole and fine adjustments. It comes in handy but, it is not used on every project. For scraping on larger panels it helps me avoid card-scraping irregularities into the surface. It also excels at cleaning up glue lines but, this activity increases your sharpening interval. The iron is stout and with a good hook on it you can get a very nice surface right across things like curly or birds eye maple. Sharpening requires the same basic skills as putting a hook on a card scraper. I only mention this because others have asked if a scraper plane is easier to use than a card scraper. After some discussion we found that what they were really asking is "will this solve the troubles I have sharpening my card scrapers"; it will not. It is fair to say that I am glad to have it. It is also fair to say that it would not be on my short list of hand tools required to establish a decent plane till. A very well made and versatile tool for its purpose. I wouldn't hesitate to pick one up if you do a lot of larger panel scraping.
  16. - how do you deal with multiple grits? I have grits from 60 to 400. Most used is 60 and 80. - did you buy one or more extra drums to have multiple grits ready to go at all times (say, 80 & 150)? On the Supermax you can change paper in . . . (I just went out and did it) . . . about 1 minute and 15 seconds without hurrying. This includes releasing the paper at the left hand clip, rolling it into a nice little roll that fits into a rattle can top. Putting the new grit on and making sure all is smooth and tight, walking back to the bench and hitting stop on the phone timer. I don't think you could change a drum that fast. - do you wrap/unwrap as needed? Yes as described above. After hearing all the horror stories about getting the abrasive on a drum, aligning a drum and so forth, it took me quite a bit of research to buy a drum sander. The Supermax paper change is child's play. The drum alignment is simple and stays put. The tables are easy to align and stay put. About the only thing I could wish for is that the spring-loaded clip on the right were on the left. It is easy to reach with your middle finger but, those with big mitts could struggle a bit. I am a big DRO fan (tablesaw, router, planer) but, skipped it on the sander.
  17. $10 HF dial caliper and some scrap. Don't get me wrong. I am not one of those "close enough" guys. If my blade is not .001" to the miter slot on the same tooth between the leading and trailing positions, I keep working at it. Once you have that, do the same at 45 degrees and then go back and fix 90 degrees if required; rinse and repeat. I also find these to be a big help during setup or re-alignment after moving a machine. It is surprising how much easier it is to use these than the short ones. When your not in the moment, the difference seems . . . meh. When you are on one knee, holding a feeler gauge in one hand and a socket in the other, the difference is huge
  18. Cherry does come on a wide variety of shades. I actually have my stock pre-sorted and marked with "Group A", "Group B", etc on the visible edge of the stock. The A, B and C's don't mean anything other than all B's have a similar shading; salmon pink, figured with gray, deeper red, etc.. This saves me time in sorting. Cherry darkens with time and light exposure and walnut lightens. Trying to match an additional board can be quite painful. As you point out, the appearance right after milling is far from what you will have in your hands next week. I do the same for walnut which has a range of shading that makes cherry all look alike. If I make a mistake on walnut stock quantity for a larger project that may take a few months to complete it is near terminal depression. It is sooooo hard to get another board to match the stock I am already working.
  19. You want ducts with as smooth an interior as possible. By design, drain tile is a no-go. ASTM-2729 is lightweight and easy to work with. I have been running it for years and made several (easy) configuration changes. Forty feet is a long run for anything under 3HP or a lot of luck ;-) When you way small shop I am assuming height limits, yes?
  20. I see it!!! That little piece of plastic bag is probably getting in the way of the entrance port . . . yep, that's it . . . I'm sure of it. Two words - Clean Stream.
  21. In the sizes you're looking for, lee valley; lipped brad points are my preference.
  22. Get the t-squre if you want a quality t-square but, a straight edge and an inexpensive dial caliper will go further in your alignment tasks. My point is that if alignment is your focus I would put my money toward a better straight edge if I had to choose.
  23. Dave speaks true. Once I had decided on my method I cut the DD snouts back as far as was sensible to open the port size as much as I could.
  24. I also find my Grizzly G0529 to be a workhorse around the shop. If you have not found yourself needing one for a specific function, I would hold off. I do a fair amount of G&G style stuff. That along with the occasional request for a Maloof-alike keep me in curve and compound angle territory and a spindle is very handy. I too had the Ridgid spindle belt unit and for $200 with a Lifetime Service Agreement it was a jewel. Alas I found I used the belt more than the spindle. I sold it and picked up a large oscillating belt sander. All too soon I noticed the lack of a spindle and the G0529 filled the bill with the bonus of a 12" disc. All that being said, if you have not found yourself needing one I would wait on acquiring one. Shop space is all too scarce to fill with things you might find useful. I would love to have a stroke sander but, I don't truly need one and I accomplish these tasks another way without issue. This saves me a ton of room (and money). Getting by without something is a sure way to hone the actual value of 'said thing' to you. Gather your tools as the needs appear. You will spend less, have more efficient use of space and have a better idea of what you actually want when the time comes.
  25. I use 2-1/2" hose and the thread-on shop vac adapters for same. I got some of the adapters at Rockler and some from Peachtree IIRC. I use them on a couple of vac setups. Upper right in the pic. Here's the Peachtree swivel and non-swivel versions: