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About RJH30518

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  • Location
    Atlanta area (Sugar Hill)
  • Woodworking Interests
    General hobby, tools, jigs, design
  1. I had some left over from cut-outs of a house that we had built that had Corian counter tops. The pieces sat for years, this I needed perfectly flat fence replacements for my shaper fence -- the wood ones needed replacing. The Corian fit the bill, and have been on the shaper for years. Still have some pieces left, and they are waiting for a good use. Mine will end up in something that needs to be flat and straight and won't be affected by moisture, and will take a lot of wear.
  2. Here is what it turned out looking like ... The drawer on the top is false, but the doors are real. The false drawer is glued in place and fits tight in the space.
  3. You could take a look at Suwanee Lumber, I haven't purchased any of their ply, but they are my HW lumber place that I go to.
  4. I made some false drawers for the top of a bathroom cabinet (a real drawer would hit the sinks), and what I did was cut a small rabbit (about 1/16") around the front edge so that it looks like it has the spacing around it like a real drawer would have for spacing ... It makes the false drawer look like it could open.
  5. I have a set of the Wood Owl bits -- the Overdrive ones -- and they do a smoother and faster cut than my forstner bits. The Overdrive ones have a very small point (no treaded point) so the bottom of the hole is close to the bottom of my forstner bits. Highly recommend these bits.
  6. I have had an Electra Bechum version of this unit that I picked up in Munich about 20 years ago, and it is still in very good shape and still works -- my version does not have the DC incorporated though. If you get it, I would think about getting spare cutters -- they are not readily available here in the US. When we moved back -- and have moved several times, and the German movers were the best in packing compared to the packing that was done for the US moves.
  7. I have seen demonstrations of the gripper at shows, and most of the time they are showing it being used on a table saw. I have used it on a TS, but really only when used with a tapering jig. What I really like it for is on a shaper. It has 2 really good pluses when used on a shaper ... it keeps that hands away from the spinning cutter and keeps the board flat on the table -- I used them with rail and style cutters. The Griper had the side support setting on the table to offset the wood piece, and I used the stop blocks to rest on the side edge of the board -- this keeps the gripper away from the cutter, and helps push the board against the fence. For me, the gripper is the ideal push stick for a shaper or router table! Not so much for the table saw ...
  8. I did this against one of the walls, and it does multiple duties ...
  9. That I a nice bench! You should find that it will serve you well for a long time without needing to build your own.
  10. H Hunter, I was in Munich on assignment for 8 years and this is what I did ... Fist off, I purchased a good German made bench -- Ulmia ... use it whenever I am in the shop. The other tools that I purchased were a hand plane, chisels (when was in London), and gewindel Schneider (tap and die for wood), a hegner scrool saw, an electra bechum jointer / planer, and a sliding table attachment for my table was (which was in the US, but the small sliding table attachments seemed to be a good idea) ... and I would figure out how to get it attached once I got back to the states. I would not do anything different ...the power tools work fine on the US 220 60 Hz. The hegner runs fast and shakes more than normal, but it has been doing that for almost 20 years, so it has survived. Make sure that any motors that you purchase are rated for 50/60 Hz, and they will work fine on the US 220 lines. I also brought back a bunch of German wall plugs and used them to mount on the malls with 220 running to them. They are a much better type of plug (IMHO) that the US 220 type of plugs. I also purchased an electric drill (plug in) that I also have a 110 to 220 transformer that I use if I need it outside of the shop. Don't be afraid of purchasing stationary tools that are engineered to run on 220 -- running them in shop that is wired for 220 is a good idea for any shop in the US, and these will fit in fine. FYI, when I was there, the $ was worth 3DM, and the cost of the European tools were about the same in the other currency ... for example, the Ulmia bench was 800 DM, and was listed in the US for around $800. With the exchange rate, it was around $260 ... I made out like a bandit.
  11. Just another thought about slides ... Have you considered putting an "L" attached to the top, and have the "L" bottom fit into a groove in the side of the drawer? That way, no bottom is needed at all. The "L" could have a top, like a "T" to make it easier to mount to the top.