• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About sapling111276

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    scroll work, cabinet making, just about all woodworking
  1. Reading this forum again I can't lie. Part of what drew me into this hobby was watching many of the wood whisperer's videos and finding myself totally amazed by all the knowledge. This, coupled up with a thirst to try everything that Marc posts, and seeing his vast array of tools, you start to feel a little envious. I have been told recently "learn to walk before you run" and that is incredibly sage-like advice, but at the same time, it's hard to pick a path to go down when there are just so many to choose from. What I am quickly learning is to pick something I want to learn and go for it. I don't disagree that even the cheaper tools will get the job done, but man oh man... getting a well crafted tool in your hands and having that as your beginner tool can help you avoid so many mistakes as you hone your skills with them. Before choosing to pick up this hobby, I was a jack of all trades, master of none-kinda guy. I had certain tools that I didn't really care much about and these tools were sometimes put to tasks that they actually weren't even intended for. I guess that's what separates necessity of getting a job done and actually learning how to properly make that tool work for you. Recently I bought a chisel set from HD. I got it home and opened it up and as if some kind of twisted fate, I dropped my brand new chisel. Don't sweat it though, I caught it, with the sharp end, yeah, impaling my finger and laying it wide open. The funny part of this story?! It was dull. The chisel had a factory edge on it and I had no idea it needed to be sharpened, especially after my mishap. That same chisel is so sharp now (because I invested time and money into learning how) that I would not want that same mishap to happen again. Summary: don't get too excited when getting into this craft. Take time and research tools that you are interested in using (not ones that just look like they belong in your shop because they are pretty). Figure out if you can Afford to throw any extra money at your lacking tool collection. Try to determine if that tool is going to help you in the near future so as not to clutter your shop with tools that sit and collect dust. Keep asking questions. I joined this site in October of 2016 and I honestly have never felt so welcome. People respond quickly and give advice and even some pitfalls to avoid. I realize the original post was made in 2013 but I hope to add to the help of any newbies who come along with these same questions.
  2. Sorry Martin, just seeing this. I am north of Albany by roughly 20 minutes
  3. Yeah, I am actually going to make the top out of glued up 2x4s and top with hardboard
  4. OK, so I don't mind spending a little money to learn stuff so here is what I intend to do. I will try the lowes "top choice" plywood. I will only buy 1 sheet as to continue learning and not dumping money into 3 or more sheets as I hone my skills. I will post my progress.
  5. A buddy of mine sticks to lowes for his wood selection. Just to be clear, you are saying to stick to this "top choice" as opposed to finding something a little less expensive while making a workbench? Weighing all options here
  6. Thank you guys. The info is greatly appreciated. To the average guy, stuff like this doesn't exist as a problem.
  7. Oh good lord. I'm just trying to get a workbench together lol. I wonder if it would just make more sense to use solid pine 1x6 for the drawer sides
  8. Ok good to know. It's definitely birch veneered plywood, not Baltic birch. Man they charge a lot for veneered wood. Is this a fleecing tactic? Just mean that they are charging $46+ for a sheet of this veneered stuff. I am kind of compiling the stuff I am learning from this forum and using this as a path forward.
  9. Ok that is good to know. I am super new to woodworking (hence my forum name) and I would guess it's just birch and probably just what you were saying about the veneer. The way it's labeled is escaping me since I am trying to recall this from memory i would say these are roughly 3/16" plies
  10. Are you referring to the lower pics? In that case you would be spot on. That's just my crosscut sled with a pine back stop. Above pic, if that is not Baltic then Home Depot is fleecing the public. Are there other kinds of birch? Weaker birch? This came from a stack labeled "birch" the cross cut sled is made from radiata pine the backstop I believe is scrap from the birch
  11. I have only just started constructing them. Technically I may start over. The birch sheet was 1 of 3 needed and with all this tear out, I might do what I previously stated which is to get some cheaper sanded pine. In that event I guess I could get some drawer slides to make the drawers operate a little slicker and I am ok with piecing in the void made by the dado on the carcass. The drawer faces will cover 99.9% of the caracass edge and if I am good enough, should have roughly at most an 1/8" gap. I will try for smaller tolerances but still have to be realistic at the same time. I made a jig with the 3/16" dado cut out of it. I then made a spacer the thickness of my finger negatives and mounted it on the jig so that each cut would accept the new negative as I moved it over. If I used a backer board in front of the jig I would go through a lot of scrap. I will insert a picture of the jig so you can see what I am dealing with.
  12. Mostly to save money. There will be a total of 12 drawers so I was thinking metal slides would rack up in cost
  13. I have it up against a jig stop. Some of the cuts show missing meat between the plies. I was assuming it was the quality of the wood.
  14. Damn.. good info as always when I ask a question here. I used 3/4" ply to make the carcasses. I dado'd a 5/16" channel so that my face would have some over lap. Alternatively I guess I could cut some hardwood to 3/4" thick(the thickness of the dado channel) and then the width of the channel I would make on the drawers as well as the previously cut channels I put on the carcass this is my first attempt at a major project of any kind and the pains of learning are hitting me hard lol. I watched a video regarding finger joints by William Ng and I found it pretty informative. I swear in the video he says to use Baltic birch in his video for the drawer sides. I picked up an expensive sheet from HD and quickly started ripping it to size. My circular saw and table saw has a finishing blade for ripping finish panels and this stuff was splintering so bad that I was instantly defeated. I then tried taping the cut seam and the same outcome. After that, I considered scoring my cut line but my lazy side kicked in and I decided to try my tablesaw. Eureka, barely any tear out with my zero clearance insert. I then began setting up my dado blade and started making test cuts to dial in my finger joints to the proper sizing. I got that all set and started dadoing 3/8" negatives. Much to my surprise I was again defeated when the fingers started to flake and tear out. I thought "maybe I am going too fast" so I slowed down and cut very slow and at first I thought I had the answer solved and then even at slow speeds I started having the same terrible results. Looking back, I think I should have maybe used sanded pine and maybe faced the drawers with the Baltic birch. Attached is a picture of the tear out. This was cut with a brand new Freud dado stack. I was just thinking I will stick the bad sides inward lol
  15. Hi all, back at it again and needing direction. So I am making my drawers for my workbench and I decided to dado the carcass sides to accept rails that I put on the actual drawers. So my question is this. First, should the rails extend all the way to the front and back of the drawers (covering the finger joints, or should the rails stop just short of both the front and back finger joints. Also, should the rails be some type of hardwood or can I make it out of the scrap plywood from the drawers? Problem I can see happening with plywood is that as I mount them to the drawer, pretty much any fastener will expand the wood making precision a bit tough. If plywood is an acceptable type of rail, should the face of the plywood be against the side of the drawer and the outside of the rail, or should the face be top and bottom of the rail (which will be what slides along the distance of the dado on the carcass)?