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About Marmotjr

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    Rome, Ohio
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  1. Thanks, still learning.
  2. Yup, there's a coupling/chip breaker type thing that locks onto those two nubs on the outside. Give Dewalt a call, they just might send you one gratis since yours didn't come with one.
  3. The DIY'er in me loves that table. Nice work! But like @K Cooper asked, I'm assuming in the first pic the saw isn't firmly attached to the table yet?
  4. Yup, we even have a sub forum dedicated to sketchup: Check the recent thread on plugins too, it's got a few good resources in it.
  5. @Ronn W, That's a very nice bench. You said all M&T for the joints, but how did you do the seat slats?
  6. Dangit... I started googling before continuing to read the thread, and was going to ask myself.
  7. If you're turning a bowl, rough out the inside too. It will help reduce the drying time.
  8. I'd guess a 1 hp motor would work, No more than 2. I'd be tempted to try it on my lathe (if I had the length) on my 3/4 hp. Build yourself some pulleys out of plywood, Matthias has a couple good videos on building his own lathe where he makes his on pulleys. Make both the Head stock and Tail stock out of laminated layers of ply. Like a dozen or so 6"x6" pieces glued together would probably make a solid enough stock. Bearings should be easy enough to come by, finding the right drive shaft might be an issue. You might have to make one. Another option would be to get a cheap 8" or 10" lathe (you really don't need any more capacity for this job), and just mount the tailstock way down on the end of the bench, in home built ways. In fact, this would probably be your best option, as all the mechanics and such are known to work, you don't have to worry about mucking around with designing it. This method also gets you a fully functional lathe in the process for other work. I'd say right off the bat, check out some of the cheap HF lathes that are out there. It wouldn't take you much work to convert one. The only downside to the 10x18 Lathe they have is that the Hp is only 1/2, but it's cheap. And thinking about it some more, while the piece you're turning may be heavy, it's not wide, so the mass is tight to the axis of rotation, a smaller motor might be able to handle it. The worst that happens is that you buy it, find it doesn't work, and you can return it. You only have to have a bench long enough to handle the length, and build the tail ways to hold the tail stock. The biggest PITA, though, regardless of your final choice, is making a steady rest to handle both squared and round stock. A string steady rest might be your best option to start till you get some section rounded off, then you could switch to a wheeled one. Or, thinking some more, I like this option the best, use a spoke shave to round over a couple small sections to mount wheeled steady rests to. If do plan on turning these, I'd still recommend ripping off the corners first to make it easier to cut. Sorry if that was one long brain fart, it was half stream of consciousness and half migraine induced rambling.
  9. Check out some of the replies in this thread. There was some good discussion on how to turn long objects. But if you plan on doing the same item over and over again, you could probably build a lathe specifically for that piece. A motor turning a drive shaft, mounted in some bearings set into a block of plywood, fixed to your bench or stand, would work for the head stock. A similar setup for the tail stock, with maybe 6" of travel in it would work. A steady rest in the middle. Such a setup could be attached to a long table or bench, and could easily stored away when not being used. It'd be far cheaper than buying a lathe capable of handling things that big. If you wanted to get real fancy, you could add in a duplicator so you would have identical parts each time, but with such a simple shape (if not big), just some go/no go gauges for the various diameters would be easier.
  10. I've also turned within hours of cutting. Wear a face shield if you don't already. The maple I turned was so wet it was throwing liquid everywhere as I cut.
  11. This. Mask, glasses, wool hat (if it's cold out), ears. In that order. Put your ears on last. The mask can have difficulty sealing properly if you are wearing anything under the straps. And speaking from personal experience, helmets with flip up anything are a PITA if the helmet is not custom fitted, and then that takes some money. Anytime I would go to lean over, the thing would shift or fall off completely, Especially while wearing a mask underneath it. I've dropped more than one helmet into a vat of acid. The solution is to wear a chip strap, but I found that to be more of a problem than a solution, as it's uncomfortable and also tangles with the other straps. And I don't know why you'd want to lose those earmuffs. I love mine and they are the best I've ever worn.
  12. Sounds like a boxer or a hockey player, or a skating boxer. I happen to like the North dust mask to be fairly comfortable, and I'm picky about my masks. But it does rest on your nose a bit, so you might not like it. You might also want to look into Positive Air pressure systems. They either come with a belt or can be hooked up to a fixed air supply. It's a helmet with no facial pressure at all, and the air usually blows in from the top of your head. I've used them in both chemical and sandblasting environments and find them quite nice to use. They do tend to be quite pricey though. If you already have a compressor, you could get a filter for the line, and connect a hood to that. I'm not sure on feasibility or cost, but if you're serious about respiratory protection, and really can't find a mask you like, then you might have to spend a bit to be comfortable and safe. Those all still have a "mouth" piece that goes over your mouth and nose, prevents the face shield from fogging up. I have a couple of these too (also by north, and another by... I dunno off hand). You can remove the mouth piece from these though, but expect it to fog eventually, quickly if the air is cool. But I find I like these more when I making a LOT of dust, and It's getting in my eyes too.
  13. Intuition is the voice of experience. Your logic sounds about right to me. I know there's quite a few HVAC tutorials on the net for airflow through various diameter pipes, if you're really interested in doing a little math work.
  14. Weird, I watched the first one on my own about an hour before you posted it.
  15. Where I'm from, that'll get you kicked in the shins every time. That's one of my "off limits' names.