Waldvogel Review

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About Waldvogel Review

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Shop Projects, Home Improvements, Venturing into furniture and Finer Woodworking
  1. I have the Milwaukee kit with both bases and I LOVE LOVE LOVE IT It's 2-1/4" HP, and so comfortable to use I also love it in my router table with the fixed base microadjust as a router lift Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Yea, it's just braced enough not to fall in. That was before I had developed the leveling method. Even now I just ordered a 5/16" tap so I can thread the rods upward to keep the leveling adjustable in all 4 corners I also wanted to create something better to pinch the top in a square position and shift it back and forth other than the composite shims Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. That's a great idea ! I usually don't use vertical feather boards but I have a featherboard that rides in the miter slots usually I'll use it without it for now and if I have to figure out the rear clamp situation later I will Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I did notice a tiny bit of lift when I initially clamp down but it goes right back I couldn't use downward clamping force off the fence for sure without something back there I wanted a vega originally They just were oversold and overpriced when I was purchasing a fence originally Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Yea the T2 just has a little clip that barley grabs the fence as the front settles the clamping mechanism doesn't actually move anything on the rear fence It glides rather smoothly, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something on these biesmeyer fences Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Just like the heading says I've been piecing together this interesting deal here. I'm not done yet It's a Dewalt 7480 saw mounted inside of a Solid Core Door 1-3/4" thick. I leveled it with a machinists straight edge and using some threaded rod. To wedge the thing square I used composite Door/jam shims (might have another idea for future adjustability) The fence is a Delta T2 30" fence The door is 32" deep and I do not want to cut off any width if I can help it. The rear rail is not currently mounted and the fence is just gliding across the table without the UMHW piece and the hook/clip that grabs the rear rail Do T-square style fences only rely on the rear rail for areas of the saw without a table? Would I be fine working without it? I tested to make sure the gap under the fence is very small and I can cut 1/8" plywood without it slipping under the fence whatsoever Any help would be great Thanks ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I have an ceiling mounted overhead dust filtration unit that can pickup anything that makes it passed the 1 micron bag. I also wear a respirator during just about any extended cutting operations. I suspect I am pretty safe in this regard
  8. I looked it up and you are correct. BUT...... Im not going to pay the extra expense for that. Ill just keep water off my floor lol
  9. If youre looking for darker finished, I have used Polyshades before. They definitely softent he woodgrain look though because its more like tinting than a penetrating stain
  10. That makes more sense. I believe someone did that in my families old house to put a plug on the back porch. Garage power is no different than the rest of the house. Even outdoor sheds often have power professionally ran to them buy tying in a breaker, running and burying conduit and running up to a light, or a plug or two. Of course, once you run power to a shed or put it on a foundation, the city\county often will try to tax it as part of the house sq footage jerks lol
  11. Well I am not terrible concerned with all dust being captures, just mostly the chips. The dust collector itself has a 1 micron bag, so I anything that makes it passed the chip separator will go to the main dust collector. Its mostly for heavier planer\jointer chips
  12. Im almost positive thats not true. At least in California. Ive been in new and old houses here and none of them are GFCI. The only rule is if its within 10ft of a water source i believe.
  13. My rigid shopvac worked great for all of these things in my garage individually. The Static pressure was higher, but the CFM was rated at 150 for the vac, and limited to that by the dust deputy. The suction on this shopsmith when used directly with a hose is very different than a shopvac. I can tell just by testing it that it moves dust differently with a 2.5 inch hose. I know from researching it that HP is not everything, and neither are impeller diameter or CFM respectively. Its a combination of too many factors entirely lol Perhaps keeping the dust collection mobile is the most practical. But how about presorting chip collection with this unit?
  14. I recently picked up a Shopsmith DC3300 Dust Collector (new generation) with the large 1-micron dust hood on a steal. I tried my dust deputy (smaller clear one for shop vacs) and the suction drops too significantly because the cyclone unit is limited to 100-150cfm. I want to build a chip collector, and already have a 30 gallon blue rigid plastic barrel with a snap-ring style lid that is nicely sealed. The existing hole where i had the dust deputy is in the center, and already around 3-3.5 inches or so. Under the 3 way junction on the shopsmith, where the 3-2.5" ports meet, is a hole around 4.5" directly in front of the impeller. I was thinking about removing it and installing a very short piece of 4" hose on a flange, meeting with the center of the blue barrel to maximize air movement between the barrel and the chip collector. My existing shop vac ducting is 2" and I wonder if installing a piece of 2" elbow on a 90 degree angle to the side of the barrel will help create that cyclone effect Ive seen on barrels that use the dust right-style system. The CFM on the Shopsmith is 330. All of my tools use 2.5" ports on them (with the exception of the 4" on the lunchbox planer, and 1.25" on the miter saw port) Do I ditch the ducting and make the chip collector and Shopsmith DC a single unit that gets attaches to each station, each time? I would assume this dust collector must work better for woodworking than my rigid shop vac system. Before I get too far with this thread, I have to ask that people refrain from the unhelpful 'sell it and buy something better' comments if you feel the urge. I saw a few of those in other threads i visited before reaching out here. Thoughts opinions?
  15. How did you manage that? Ripping on one? What type of Drum Sander are you using? Jet?