I'm not aware of a 10" compact model, but I do have the Bosch 12" Glide compound miter saw. Though expensive, it works wonderfully and is very, very compact. I bought it so that I could mount it as close to the wall as possible. It is so compact, that it actually takes up 2" less behind the fence than the Festool Kapex, shock is itself a compact saw.
I would recommend a good caulk joint between the tile and wood. Also, if you're expecting a lot of movement, try to build the wooden portion to minimize it. Maybe have the tile run the length of the table, secure the wood near the tile & let it float at the outside edge.
I've got two suggestions. I can't speak directly to eithers snow load, but both work here in New York, and the deck above them will handle most of the snow no matter where the deck is built.
1) fabricate U-shaped metal panels. Once the joists are installed, but before the decking is installed, slip the metal pieces betwen the joists. Screw the vertical legs of the metal panels to the sides of the joists. This is not 100% water tight, but it will catch the vast majority of rain. Not much will get between the panels and the joists. Install the panels so they're pitched away from the house and you can install a gutter to catch water at their end.
2) Loose lay EPDM membrane over the joists. Lay it so that it droops between the joists.the droop should be pitched away like the metal. Again, a gutter can be installed to catch the water. If the deck is bigger than a sheet of EPDM (10' wide), you should seam the EPDM. This method should be 100% watertight.
I've been a bit brief here, so any questions, please let me know.
Gents, I know what its like to be dissapointed by an editorial shift of a magazine (I'm thinking AutoWeek when it became a lifestyle magazine). If you don't like the content, then don't renew.
As for me, I find that the vast mojority of furniture I read about in all medium is nice, but not necessarily my cup of tea. I hold no ill will towards Popular Woodworking for expanding the types of furniture they cover.
I have the Festools. My first suggestion would be that you replace the Bosch with another Bosch. That will leave you with the same capability and let you use the paper you already have.
I've never used a Fein sander, so I'll not weigh in on that front.
As for the Festool, I'll address the Rotex first. I have a 5" Rotex. It is excellent in aggressive mode. However it is terrible in random orbit mode. I can't recommend it if you need it to put on a nice, random orbit finish. I also have Festool 5" & 6" random orbit sanders. They are excellent at putting on an even surface.
As for the paper, I mostly use Festool paper. It is expensive, but it has their proprietary hole pattern & it also lasts long and does a great time. I've also used Mirka Abranet paper and it also does a great job. I've never used standard Mirka paper, but if the holes don't line up then it won't be nearly as efficient as the Festool paper.
This may not be an option you're considering, but you may want to look at the Ridgid 6" RO sander. I have one of them too. It is a very good (vs. Great) sander. It switches between random orbit & aggressive mode. It also takes standard paper and only costs about $125.00.
Sorry if that was too much info, but hopefully something in there will help. Good luck.
I've heard great things about the current Makita offerings. My own saw, the Bosch GCM12SD is a bit higher than your budget, but is a fantastic saw too. The glide mechanism (Vs standard rails) is much, much smaller & just as accurate.
Welcome, Matt, from a fellow Long Islander. I'm excites to see another local in the forum (there are far too few of us). Be sure to check out the Modern Woodworkers Association sub forum for local threads and meetups.
Phenolic plywood is very expensive. The only distributor I know of who sells full sheets is Robert's Plywood in Deer Park, NY. I'm not sure if they can/will ship a full sheet. It's been a long time since I priced it, by a few years ago it was going for over $200 per sheet.