Actually I didn’t Russ. Had I read Barry’s post I wouldn’t have posted an idea I saw on a DVD a couple of years ago. I apologize for the redundancy, and I’ve removed my post. Having now read Barry’s comment, I noticed he recommends a 23 gauage pin. I’ve only heard about an 18 guage brad nail being used. I’ve also read or saw it being used on other types of glue ups other than a miter joint. Thanks Russ.
Maybe I misunderstood, but I think Franklin Pug is talking about something similar to the lower right and left corners that you find on “flag frames”. I don’t know what he’s building , but just as an example, each of the two lower corner angles of a flag frame would measure a total of 45 deg (two 22.5 deg cuts). I have seen flag frames that don’t use the 22.5 deg angles, but then the lower side corners are not a miter joint.
Have you seen these miter clamp adaptors? They say it comes with adapters for 22.5-, 30-, 45-, and 60-degree miters. I don’t know how well they work. It seems that Amazon is currently out, however I have seen them on Craigslist. Not sure where you would buy them new. If you don’t purchase it new, you would have to make sure all of the adapters were there.
Here’s a video of an interview with a Powermatic rep at the recent IWF trade show (3 min 20 sec). They discuss the features of the PM1500 and a few specs. Not much information here, but for what it’s worth.
First, I see this post probably should have been put under the Restoration & Refinishing sub-category. Maybe one of the WTO Staff could move this post for me. Thanks.
Second, after further searching, I ran across a product called Restorz-It. Has anyone used Restorz-It? From what I’ve read so far on their website, they say it works okay with polyurethane. Again, never used the product, but something our friends may want to try out on the baseboards, and as Steve said, try it in an inconspicuous place first. Also, thanks John for the heads up on the MSDS ingredients. I want to help our friends, not put them in harms way!
“What wipe-on product works well to refinish wood with a polyurethane finish? Someone told me about one that was great but I can't remember who or what the product name was. Our baseboards need a facial...”
I'm hoping someone will be able to answer her question. She and her husband are in the process of getting their home rented out. I have heard of Howard’s Restor-A-Finish, but they say on their website, that harder finishes such as polyurethane will absorb less of the stain/restorer, but will look better after it’s applied. They also say, that “A polyurethane finish should NOT be used over Restor-A-Finish as it will not let this type of topcoat finish dry.” I have no experience with this product.
My amateurish suggestions. Just some thoughts for what they’re worth.
I would look into the Grizzly G0555X or the G0457.
You said that you do resawing on no more than a 6” thick board or log. One day, you may want to resaw at a larger size. If you get something like the G0555X, you can purchase the 6” extension block kit to allow 12” resaw capacity. The G0457 has a 10” resaw capacity built in.
The G0555X has a 1.5 hp motor and the G0457 has a 2 hp motor. Either should be enough for your resawing with a good resaw blade. Both motors are 110v/220v single phase.
As far as space, if I understood correctly, you do have more countertop space than you actually need.
One option, would be to remove one of the cabinets that has nothing to the left of it. You need that floor space to stand next to your saw for resawing and other cuts. Both of these saws come with a metal base cabinet. It may also require removing a wall cabinet above. Just set the saw where the left of the cabinet used to be.
Another option would be to take one of the base cabinets, that has space at the left end (as above), and cut it down height wise to mount the saw on the left end. Put a nice thick wood or other sturdy material on top of the cut down cabinet, and unbolt the saw from it’s supplied cabinet and then bolt the saw to the top (left end). I would set the height to put the bandsaw table surface at the same height as the cabinet top to the right to allow longer boards to move onto the other counter top as you saw.
If you do this you may want to check on the G0457 to see if it can be removed from its base. The G0555X is bolted to its base. You could also check with Grizzly to see if the G0555X or G0457 can be purchased without the base cabinet if you went with this option and save some money. One other consideration is the depth of your cabinets, being deep enough to allow for the bandsaw you purchase to fit on top depth wise.
Of course you could also wait a bit for the new Powermatic PM1500. Just kidding of course! Price is given at the end of the video.
It doesn’t sound like you need any motivation, however, you (or those that replied) may enjoy reading the short story (9 pages) called "The Man Who Planted Trees”. It's also called “The Story of Elzéard Bouffier, The Most Extraordinary Character I Ever Met”. The story needs a small edit here and there, but otherwise it’s very readable.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovTuxRbGcMg? No child was harmed in the shooting of this video (44 seconds).
Bobby, I guess your finished stripping bark. I didn’t know if you looked into something like a barking spade from Muller, or not. The URL for this page is not specific, so you’ll have to click on the Product Survey on the left, then scroll down to Bark Strippers, click on All Available Articles and then click on the Bark Strippers link (sorry). If you scroll down a ways you’ll see a spade with a long handle and a steel ball on the end of the handle. You can purchase any spade you want in the weight that you want and mount a handle on it of whatever length you want. They also sell the steel ball separately to attach to the end of the handle for extra momentum.
I have no idea as to how well these work with the small diameter logs you have been working with. Just a thought if you haven’t looked into this already, or still have any reason to.
One point of concern would be the final weight of your bench versus the full 6’ bench with a 3” top. For hand tool work, the heavier the better.
From what I’ve read, 2” is the minimum bench top thickness for holdfasts to work properly. I would go for 3” if you can. However, as Rob has already said, there are a number of other ways of holding work on the bench top.
Here’s a quote from the first article on the Holtzapffel class: “With the base assembled, attach the workbench’s top to the base with 3/8″ x 5″-long lag screws through the top stretchers in the end assemblies. We used four lag screws per bench.” I see that the only top stretchers are the short end stretchers. If you are going with a 2” top, you would need a shorter lag bolt. The quote doesn’t say if they used a countersink to hide the bolt head, but if they didn’t you would have to allow for any counter sink depth as well.