TerryMcK

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TerryMcK last won the day on October 14 2015

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About TerryMcK

  • Rank
    Master Poster
  • Birthday 07/26/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ellesmere Pk, England, UK
  • Woodworking Interests
    Stringed instrument making
    Wind instruments
    Cabinet making
    Furniture design and manufacture
    Power tools
    Hand tools
    Shop design and layout
    Gate, Portcullis and Drawbridge design and manufacture a speciality - especially for anybody living in a castle.

    Also a licensed radio ham G8YPH since 1980 and just getting back into operating. Have a listen around on HF, VHF or UHF as I have gear for all bands.

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  1. Plywood doesn't expand/contract appreciably so it is best to leave it unglued in the groove so the solid wood can move. If you do glue it just put a dab on the center of one of the grooves - maybe the front panels. That will stop it moving but still allow the solid wood to expand or contract without affecting the plywood. If you are making it capable of being repaired so you can slide it in from the back then use some screws on the rear edge. If you glue the entire plywood to the solid wood sides you will find that the plywood may bend or crack. I like a nice sliding fit in the grooves. I am making some small drawers with 3mm thick plywood. I have routed a groove with 1/8" (3.2mm) router and that gives around 0.2mm to 0.3mm clearance which is about 7 to 10 thou ".
  2. And another from back in 2011
  3. Welcome on board the forum. Somebody had to say it.
  4. It's Chris Schwarz new venture
  5. I've got a couple. One I currently get out when I need to use the lunchbox planer and the other has the shop PC and monitor permanently on top. They are very useful though for jobsite work.
  6. Yes could be. Bridgecity make an updated version which retails for about £300 GBP in the UK - not sure how much they charge in the US. http://www.axminster.co.uk/bridge-city-chopstick-master-103475 I use a fork and spoon - I don't get on with chopsticks.
  7. Looks homemade to me. Not an antique with Philips head screws either.
  8. Yes I used two of those on a toy chest build a few years back - the same one devised by Marc. Two was just enough.
  9. That is going to look fantastic when completed.
  10. Yes it was me. Have a look at this @DIY Guy
  11. I ground my concrete floor with a floor scarifier a few years ago and coated it with multipack epoxy. This adhered ok for a number of years but I did flake off in high traffic areas (me walking over the same spots over and over or moving machinery on mobile bases). Rather than recoat with expensive epoxy I ended up then using a decent one part garage floor paint and recoat it once every two years. This is fine and I believe I should have just used garage floor paint in the first instance. It is quicker to dry, a lot cheaper, doesn't smell as much when applying it and you don't have to mess around with acid or a scarifier (unless your floor is horrendous) to prepare the floor.
  12. I find it best with a kneel on sawbench. - the one with a notched end like this one from popwood
  13. Beer and a lot of buddies normally works for me - not necessarily in that order. Disassemble as much as you can first though.
  14. The owner still does the classic car shows and the pub is full of classic car memorabilia and some old woodworking tools (I spotted an ancient wooden German pattern jointer plane on a window ledge!). He lives in the house next door and there was an old Mark 2 Jag rusting away with all the bits missing in his driveway. I don't think it was a rebuild job as it was too far gone but I think all the parts (engine, back axle, interior etc) had been stripped off for another car.
  15. Good find and as a bonus it'll keep all the wood dust off the tools