I have moved a 1954 DeWalt. Remove the blade and lower the head to the table. If it doesn't go all the way down, block it to it's lowest point. If your legs of your table are removable, I would recommend removing them also.
I bought a self-adhesive zipper from Home Depot. It was in the section with the tarps. It worked great for joining two sections of plastic sheeting that I used for a spray booth. It became my man-door in and out of the spray booth for a number of years.
That might work Chef. But (always a but), I've still had log sections split on me even after sealing. There is just so much tension in those logs. Better would have been to slice them in half minus the pith and then seal. Cracks always start from the pith....
+1 on Dan's comment about getting hss too hot to ruin the steel. Pretty easy to do on old carbon steel tools but today's steels are pretty tough to get that hot. You're more likely to ruin the cutting edge by mis-grinding than by overheating the steel.
However, with that said, I use white friable wheels on a slow speed grinder and keep a cup of water handy. Mainly because I can control the grind so much better and I can touch the edge after a dip in the water.
I used Fastcap, Old Standby and love it. No one touches this tape measure and I use it extensively for my furniture builds only. I won't even use it when doing carpentry work, that's how much I like it.
I have 2 and use them extensively for ripping sheet goods. They fold in one direction very easily so make sure when you use them, that the direction of the feed is against the folding mechanism or it will tilt up and fold as the material is passed on it if the material isn't quite above the roller.