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About JohnnyNoName

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Beltsville, MD
  • Woodworking Interests custom furniture, workbenches, the ever-elusive money tree
  1. Stainless steel rods as pins

    Hmmm... That's a thought too. I guess they don't have to be flush, but it's something I would definitly need to mockup.
  2. Stainless steel rods as pins

    There's no reason to use stainless over aluminum. I never thought about using aluminum. I'll give it a look too. Thanks for the suggestion.
  3. Stainless steel rods as pins

    Great information. I would not have thought to sand to finish before hand. Thanks guys, and keep it coming!
  4. I am going to start a new project, and I am using stainless steel rods as visible pins in the joinery. I've never used them before. Any advice on: - Where to buy them? (I was just going to order from Grainger) - How to glue them to the wood? (Rough the surface of the steel with sandpaper, and then use West system epoxy is the plan) - How to cut them? (Hacksaw? Recip saw? Cut-off wheel?) - How to sand them flush to the surface? (Low grit to high, just like anything else I'm assuming) - What finishes won't work? (I'm assuming any oil/varnish blend will not work) Thanks in advance, Jonathan ===============================================
  5. Tree ID

    I don't think it's a black locust. They have very large thorns on the branches.
  6. what is this wood???

    I think it's hard maple.
  7. Sharpening by hand - Opinions?

    Answer #1: Nothing Answer #2: None I think you have answered your own question. "I can pare off fingernails." If you are able to create a sharp edge that does what it needs to do, then keep doing what you are doing. Currently, I use waterstones. I don't like oil because I find it messier then water, but that doesn't mean that oil stones are bad. It's the end result that matters. Keep doing what your doing, and save your money on any new system. Give it a least a year so you can really get good at it. That's my two cents anyway. Jonathan ==================================================
  8. Heating my barn workshop

    I've never heard of anyone having dust/heating problems other then the dust clogging filters. Replace/clean them and you should be OK. While it's not exactly wood, I think that there are wood pellet stoves that can draw outside air for combustion. Of course that would require elcectricity ... If you went the wood stove route, maybe if you heated up the shop first, and then extinguished the fire, before you did finishing work it might remove the flammable vapors issue? I don't really know, but it sounds like ti might work. Jonathan =========================================
  9. Heating my barn workshop

    A word of warning, if you plan on using any flammable finishes, then you might not want to use a woodtove with an open flame. It might be a bad day in the shop if there's an explosion. Jonathan ============================================
  10. THE Nitty Gritty

    I like your's better than the original logo. Good Job! Jonathan =============================================
  11. Should it be soft or hard

    I doubt it matters much. While hard maple would technically better, I'm guessing it's more of a 99% to 97% thing. Jonathan =================================
  12. Favorite woodworking quote

  13. Live-edge Chestnut coffee table

    It might. I'll have to see, but I don't want an ugly glue line. If I have to have something showing, I'd prefer it to be dark. Woodworking ... always an adventure. :-) Jonathan ==========================================
  14. Shipping furniture to clients

    Ok, I think you have scared me off of shipping anything big. If I can't delivery it myself, maybe I shouldn't make it. Jonathan ===================================
  15. Favorite woodworking quote

    I heard the same question asked of him and he said "I'm Frank Klauz. Frank Klauz uses a pencil." I loved the third person. :-)