Eric.

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Eric. last won the day on February 21

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About Eric.

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    : St. Louis
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  1. The Ng bit doesn't have a top bearing. I agree that the top and bottom bearing on the Whiteside bit does make it more flexible, but IMO that's where the advantages end. If we're talking about the same bit, the Ng bit has a larger diameter which means it stays cooler which means it stays sharp longer. Also I believe it has a more severe shear angle which means a cleaner cut. Also because it doesn't have a top bearing you can pattern route thicker stock. I think the Byrd on a shaper would be the ultimate set-up...short of that I'll stick with the Ng bit. I'd like to have the Whiteside also just for the top/bottom versatility, but if I had to have just one it would be the Big Daddy.
  2. Cool table man!
  3. FYI and future reference...you don't have to build up with gloss then switch to satin at the end...you can just use satin all the way through. I'm not sure who told you to do that, but whoever it was just heard that somewhere and suggested it based on myth rather than reality. I've been using satin start to finish for years and my finishes look fine. I understand the theory behind it, but honestly the human eye cannot detect a difference. At least mine can't, and I have 20/20 vision. And I'm picky.
  4. Collin, you have to tell me why you have a carved sweet potato as your avatar. There's gotta be a story there.
  5. He could have very well meant 1". Look at the Bristlecone pines. I believe Methuselah is approaching five thousand years old. Of course dwarf trees of any variety are not really relevant to a woodworking conversation.
  6. That shouldn't matter after the planer though...? You always pursue perfection, knowing that you'll never achieve it. The closer the better, but 1/100th of an inch (that's a really weird measurement, BTW) is not a big deal in the context of that particular case. Probably snipe. Whatever your error is now will pale in comparison after those 2x4s twist and bow. LOL ...so I wouldn't worry about it.
  7. Not at all, Dave...just wanted to make sure people didn't actually think that. We have a great reputation among hobbyists in the area.
  8. Skip the contrasting species, brad nails and biscuits. Buy a pile of cherry, learn basic milling and mortise and tenon. Build slowly. Finish with oil. Give to wife. Build something else. Keep it simple. The more you complicate something, the uglier it's gonna be.
  9. I can assure you, it's not. I get tired of stupid questions and rustic DIY idiots for sure...but they'd never know it. They're customers and they get treated as such. I have a reputation around here as being short on patience when it comes to mediocrity...but I'm not trying to sell anything to any of you. We've siphoned off a huge percentage of the local competition because they have the very reputation y'all speak of...if you're not buying a thousand board feet, you're not worth their time. The business I work for is aimed directly at the small-time hobbyist furnituremaker and they get treated well. Especially the ones who don't ask where the reclaimed lumber is. The people who I spend the most time with are those who care the most, not who buy the most. To answer the OP's question...keep looking for a decent hardwood dealer. If you have to take a road trip and drive to another state to buy hardwood, do it. Your project is gonna suck if you use big box store garbage. It just is. Sorry. No way around it. You're not gonna find old growth or heart pine at BORG...and even if you did find it somewhere else, it's gonna cost just as much as a quality hardwood. We sell S2S 4/4 cherry for $2.90/bf. That's not to say you have the same deal available in your area, obviously...but deals are out there. You'd be better off buying old Cletus wood from some yokel's barn than you'd be with construction lumber. You're gonna put dozens - nay - hundreds of hours into building this furniture...why the hell would you use crap material? Makes no sense. Save the money, buy decent wood. If it takes a year, so be it. Otherwise it's a waste of your time and ours.
  10. It should go without saying by now that not all wood is created equal - despite popular belief and wishful thinking among the masses...I mean who knows how those slabs were handled in the kiln? But you can't buy firewood for that cheap, so yeah, it's a damn good deal either way. Let's hope they don't crumble to pieces when you cut into them because someone nuked them from the inside out.
  11. LOL Good deal or not? Really? The slabs we sell are kiln dried and 10/4. While pricing is subjective and based on each particular slab's size and character, I can comfortably say we would have sold those for at least 10 thousand. Probably more considering they're 12/4. Mel's right about the top slab but I'm sure there are a few in there that are decent looking. Just yesterday I sold two slabs for $2200. They were considerably larger than those, but still. You can thank that guy for being an idiot, whoever he is. What a moron. And just as an aside because I can't help myself...I still don't get the appeal. Looks like leg stock to me.
  12. As soon as you encounter even the slightest tricky grain, you're gonna wish you had a high angle blade on there. When you're super sharp you can get away with straight grain most of the time...best practice is to use a high angle on long grain. You're just gonna get better results and you don't have to run back to the stones every five minutes.
  13. Hickory or pecan. They both have that starkly contrasting heart/sapwood. That's why I mentioned them even though in hindsight it was clearly a poor guess. I never assume that some random person owns any kind of crazy exotic. I usually default to domestics until proven otherwise. Occam's Razor kind of thing.
  14. Not the smell of it, but definitely the way the wood comes to life with its first drink of oil. That's the money shot for me. Everything else is just building up to that moment. The first coat of finish is my favorite part.
  15. The HF collector will absolutely pull the chips from your jointer and planer...what it WON'T do is clear the air of all the fine particulates, which is the dangerous stuff. I have a 2HP unit, and it does a great job of cleaning up the mess. Unless you have a giant DC, which means at least 5HP, and it's properly ducted, AND all your machines are modified so that they're actually capable of capturing the dust at the source...the only way you'll truly be safe is to wear a respirator ALL THE TIME. Anything less is some level of gamble. I can't believe I'm saying this, but I think the HF would be the better choice between the two. As much as I like my Supermax drum sander, their dust collectors are unproven (are they brand new?...had no idea they even made them) and my nose hair trimmer probably has more power than that thing.