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About Eric.

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    : St. Louis
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  1. I've "polished" as soon as 24 hours after the final coat, but the longer you can wait, the better. I'd say you're perfectly safe after two or three days under normal conditions...wait a week if you're a really patient man.
  2. Oh sorry, I missed that part. He's a thin kerf... The two combo blades I use are a 40T Forrest and a 50T Freud Industrial. I don't notice much difference between the two in regard to crosscutting, but the 40T definitely rips easier and it's not because it's a Forrest. Yes the extra 8 teeth will make a difference, and as long as you're doing more rips than crosscuts at the table saw (which is likely), I'd err on the side of fewer teeth rather than more teeth.
  3. The flat grind is a joinery blade. You want the other one (ATB) for everyday use. I think you might be confused about the tooth count though...the standard WWII is a 40 tooth blade. This is the one you want... As much as I like this blade for convenience, I find myself keeping the rip blade in more and more often, especially since I bought an MFT. While the 40T Forrest will do a decent job at both ripping and crosscutting, it does neither that great, and I much prefer ripping with a true 24T rip blade, especially when using exotics or 8/4 material.
  4. The coupon expired October 31st. LOL Well, we learned something anyway...Woodworker's Journal's marketing division is as terrible as their writers and editors. I got the thing in the mail yesterday...and the coupon was 5 weeks expired. Well done, idiots. Well done. Sorry Iceballs.
  5. The coupon has found a home.
  6. I should add that this offer is only for regular members of the forum. Lurkers with zero posts need not apply, sorry. No offense.
  7. I have one. PM me if you want it. Please don't ask for it if you're planning to just stick it in your pocket and maybe use it eventually. This goes to someone who is ready to make a purchase. It's a minimum $200 order. Cannot be combined with other offers. Not valid for gift cards.
  8. Plywood gets used eventually. Big jigs can be cannibalized into little jigs and other stuff. You know how it goes...all those pieces get whittled down until they're scrap and tossed out, but not before they're useful a hundred times first.
  9. You could build a longer jig for the table saw. Same as your old one...only longer. Then clean up the edge with a hand plane.
  10. Having limited options doesn't make you dumb, just unlucky. Yeah #7 is a dud, and a few have more sapwood than I would expect at that'll use those boards in an inconspicuous worries. But at least now you'll get to experience cherry, expensive or not. I would suggest saving up some money and taking a road trip, and stocking up once or twice a year. You'll save money that way and you'll get to pick your own boards.
  11. Oak and ash take stain better but the grain looks nothing like cherry. If the goal is recreating cherry on the cheap, alder with a wash coat of shellac then gel stain is the most effective fake I've seen. On the other hand, depending on where you live, cherry may not be that much more expensive than alder and it will look much better. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  12. Alder is the best cherry fake I've seen grain-wise. It's soft though. Goes without saying the best route is just using cherry and a clear finish and letting it age naturally...but I'll say it anyway. Hope I don't get a spanking from daddy for being mean. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  13. Great job man. The pull is perfect. Did you ebonize the base?
  14. That 2.5 seconds is a problem for you I suppose? LOL
  15. Oh, blade guard, duh...I was thinking you were talking about your ZCI...throat plate. Never mind. I still don't know what your blade guard has to do with your riving knife, though.