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About woodcanuck

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  • Birthday April 10

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    Duh? Of course, why else would I be here?
  1. I'm going....when it's only an 8 hour drive, how could I pass it up. :-) Actually this will be year 4 going, the drive is well worth it.
  2. hahaha, "done buying tools"....oh Shannon, you're such a card.
  3. Yep, there are a bunch of us. I'm in Toronto, you?
  4. IKEA makes a set of cabinet light strips that have a proximity sensor in them. When the doors to the cabinet are closed, the lights are off....as soon as you open it, the lights are on. I think it's a strip of LEDs.
  5. I've built a cedar strip encased in fiberglass, it's 16' and comes in about 60-65 lbs....easily manageably by one person on and off the car/van/etc or on a portage. I have a ton of pictures of the build process on my blog. If you've got questions feel free to ask. Here's the link: http://woodcanuck.wordpress.com/projects/cedar-strip-canoe/ Good luck, it's a really fun project.
  6. If anyone is planning on attending the show this coming weekend, leave a note or message me if you're interested in meeting up. So far I've got Ben Lowery and Guy Bucey on board for a pint or six on Friday or Saturday night. The more the merrier, we had a great time last year just hanging out over a few drinks. I'll keep an eye out for comments here, or hit me on twitter @woodcanuck. Ian
  7. Greengirl...where exactly are you and what's the company? I'm in Toronto, I'd be willing to trek down to The Hammer for a good deal! Thanks
  8. I picked up the 2010 version about a year ago, it's been a pretty good reference so far. I find the search a little archaic, but it works ok. I also picked up the Pop Woodworking Archive DVD which is similar but uses an Acrobat PDF search tool instead of the custom search that Taunton included. Putting all the PDFs from both archives into a folder and using the Pop WWing search was been pretty good, though a little slow.
  9. Ditto on the Veritas shoulder plane. I can't find any flaws in the one I got either. If you are into making tools, Ron Hock sells a kit for a wooden shoulder plane, 3/4", and under $100. I made one last year and like it for light work, the metal one is a good weight though and works better on gnarly wood. I videoed the build, it is on my blog. Matt Vanderlist also covered the Hock kit on his site. http://woodcanuck.wordpress.com Ian
  10. That's just crazy Allen. We'll look for you at the booth and if we can all get our acts together and plan something, hopefully you can drop by and say hi. Anyone got ideas for where to go? We can all meet up after WIA wraps up for the day and head somewhere to eat and have a few drinks....I hear MattVan has a well stocked mini-bar. :-)
  11. Count me in, last year's was a great time...great food...great people.
  12. I have to agree with Shannon...I have one of these and it's kind of cool, but the last time I did dovetails I only ended up using it as a marking guide. I think it's ok if you're just doing a few, but if you tackle something like the Anarchist Toolchest you'll be pretty tired of using it, and by the time you're done you'll be so darned good at handcut dovetails that you won't need it anyway. :-) Practice is the key....gather up your scraps and just start making dovetail joints with them (freehand) and you'll find that it's a lot easier than it seems and that the guide only gets in the way of your productivity.
  13. Just wanted to throw in some final thoughts now that I've worked with the clamps a fair bit. Revos: For being solid and heavy duty I think these are great. I still find the silicone part of the handles gets a little slippy from time to time, but that's the only issue I've got with these. Recommendation: Minor suggestion to make the handle less slick, not a big deal though. Uniklamps: In comparison to the Revos and Revo Jrs these are nowhere in the same league, but obviously they don't serve the same purpose. I was a little iffy on these from the get-go, they felt pretty cheap overall. I'll retract that to a certain degree now that I've used them a lot. They keep creeping back onto my workbench....previously the domain of my quickgrips. I actually really like the fact that these have a bigger head on them than the quickgrips (which is my closest comparison). I generally find them much more effective than the quickgrips in most cases. The only catch is that I still find them kind of sticky...they sometimes get hung up on the bar and it takes some fiddling around to get them loosened up and moving. This happens more often when I pick up the clamp by the bar and the clamping head slams down into the other head. I'll learn not to do that! Recommendation: Find a way to keep the head moving smoothly and not binding up. Recommendation: Close in the backs, it will make them look more professional. Revo Jrs: Most of what I've been doing the last few weeks has been medium sized casework and the table tops in the pictures above. I've tried doing some of the work with the Revos and some with the Revo Jrs. In general I prefer the Jrs for the lighter weight and manouverability. If I were doing a lot of big casework I might be inclined to get the Revos over the Jrs, but as a hobbyist who does both woodworking and home renovation work, I find the Jr to be more in line with what I need. Given the choice, I'd take the Jrs first, then get some Revos to supplement them for heavier work. I found no issues with the smaller handles, I could get a good grip on them and really crank them down if I needed to. Recommendation: Change the little plastic things on the bar for lifting work off the bar. I like the ones for the Revo much better. Recommendation: Change the head covers to protect from glue to enable them to 'click' into place and stay there. I had a few times where they were slipping around while I was doing a glue up and I ended up removing them. Recommendation: The plastic piece at the tail end of the bar to help keep the bar level could be more robust, though I'd call this a minor requirement. Thanks again Danette/Marc...this is a great thing. Not only the free tools (big grin here) but doing this sort of assessment of tools make me think a lot harder about a tool before I buy it. I am a lot more critical of tool designs and especially the oversights that seem to be pretty prevalent in any of the non-premium brands. I'm very impressed that Bessey sees value in this. I hope that our collective input can make a difference. Ian
  14. I'll second that, but I have noticed that for me at least, the problem gets worse the smaller the clamp head is. The Revos I have very little trouble with, Revo JR a little trouble and the UniKlamp has quite a bit more trouble.
  15. Ok....Canada is officially metric....and yes, I have the Narex chisels in metric...EVERYTHING else I have for woodworking in based in inches. I actually think that imperial is easier to use when you're doing woodworking, at least as far as marking and measuring goes. If you're looking at things in 1/8" increments on a rule you're not too worried if you're off by 1/32", it's close enough. If you have to mark things in millimeters, I think you're at risk of developing OCD....1mm is not far off 1/32" and I doubt too many people go to that degree of accuracy in regular woodworking tasks. Now, if you want to talk doing mathematical calculations, I make more mistakes multiplying and dividing imperial measurements...and I've got a CS/Math degree! Having said all that, I am proud to say that I'm passing along my bastardized measuring system to my kid. WWing is in inches, feet, board feet - height in feet/inches - weight in pounds - math in metric - distances in KM - and though not really metric, temperature in degrees C. ....now, back to my poutine. Ian PS...I like the Narex chisels a lot, both bench and mortise chisels are a great deal for the money.