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Barron last won the day on May 22 2014

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About Barron

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    Hobby, Arts and Crafts, Shaker

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  1. I am new to this green turning, but the advice I got was to try and turn to an even thickness, about 1/10th as thick as the original blank. Put into a bag with shavings and hope for the best.
  2. This is a serious question, but if you are turning your rounds from the same wood that you were making into octagonals, won't they warp just as badly? It sounds like the problem is the wood, not the shape.
  3. If you are going to turn that cherry, most of the turners I talk to say to get your bowls roughed out as soon as possible.
  4. I'd suggest finding examples of benches you like and the woods used in those examples. Sometimes this seems like a forgotten resource, but your local library almost certainly has some books on wood working, wood and trees. "With The Grain, A Craftsman Guide To Understanding Wood" is an excellent source on North American woods. It's sold at Lost Art Press if it isn't in your library. By the way, most libraries will order books for you if they don't have a copy of their own. Lastly, don't overthink it. If you end up not liking the first bench you build, make another one.
  5. Go to a cobbler and ask for scraps, then use hide glue to attach to the hold fast. That way the leather is always where you want it.
  6. The average Roubo is too tall, but you could try clamping the board with the off side off an edge, then climbing up on the bench, kneeling on the board and cutting away. I know my Roubo is stable enough to stand on. It might look silly, but could work. If you built a split top, you could remove the center strip and rib between the slabs.
  7. I agree with drzaius-I wouldn't do anything unless you are having problems with poor feed rates. That might indicate dull blades.
  8. I just used "Cushings Perfection Direct Dye" in turquoise mixed into a little 5-minute epoxy. It's used for paint, I think-I got it in an art store. Once dry it looks black. I originally wanted the blue color for a project, but it didn't end up blue. My guess is any dark dye will work. I've also used a few drops of India ink.
  9. 1/8 to 3/16 is a little easier to achieve if you don't have a drum sander. It's fairly common to use the same material as the sides and through dovetails to make a drawer, then glue a a layer to the front to match the rest of the piece. Makes it look like you did half blind dovetails. I've never heard of anyone gluing a piece to the back.
  10. Aside the problems associated with van living, where do you plan to store your finished projects? Not sure about the maker spaces in CA, but I would guess you will need a place to store your work. not sure what storage units go for, but that might be an option. If my math is right, you are going to be saving $9900 a year, at most (975-150). How long are you going to be in the van until you reach your goals?
  11. I have the Crown gauge and it's ok. I prefer my Tite-mark gauge much more. Costs more, but really worth it.
  12. Plywood would save the solid wood for something more furniture-like, but I wonder about the abuse the sides might take from people sitting in the window seat. I'd probably go with edge banded plywood. I really like the mdf insert idea if painted.
  13. That is a lot of rough bowls. I'll probably keep going with the shavings/bad technique. The hard part will be waiting months to finish the bowls.
  14. I use my Knew Concepts fret saw for most of my dovetails until the stock is over an 1" and a cheap coping saw for the few times I work with thicker stock. Chris Schwarz did an article a while back on improving the tension on a cheap coping saw-you should be able to google it.
  15. A question for you on storing the rough blanks while drying rough turned bowls. Richard Raffan in his book "Turning Bowls" states that he stores the rough bowls in cardboard boxes until dry. I have also heard of turners putting the rough bowl into a paper bag with shavings until dry. So, what technique do you use? Thanks for your input.