AMarshall

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About AMarshall

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta, GA
  • Woodworking Interests
    I'm a SketchUp fanatic, and trying to develop my hand tool skills. I'm re-building my small garage shop for hybrid woodworking, and trying to cram it all in there! We are renovating our house to be more of an Arts & Crafts / Craftsman bungalow, but I'm drawn to Greene & Greene, Mid Century Modern, and contemporary styles also.

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  1. I agree with h3nry, the simplest way I know to do this is to copy and paste. Open up the old drawing file, select the component you want to use. Copy using your favorite method (CTRL-C, Edit/Copy) and the component will be in your clipboard. Open up the new drawing, and paste (CTRL-V, or Edit/Paste). Works just like Excel or Word, or most other programs that use the normal windows clipboard.
  2. Sure, this is easy. You're going to like this answer, I hope. You are trying to hold the CTRL key, move the mouse, and type a number all at the same time - probably while wiggling your nose too, hah! But you don't need to. Sketchup's default behavior for most tools allows you to type a specific value like your scale factor AFTER you've done the operation, and repeatedly also! Specifically for your case, use the scaling tool with the CTRL key to scale the object but don't type in a scaling factor. Just get it visually close using the mouse and click or enter to complete the scale operation. Now, before you do anything else type in your scaling factor and hit enter. The scaling will be revised to this factor. In fact, you can keep typing new values repeatedly until you get the result you want, if you want to test other scaling factors. Generally, this works with most other tools. With the move tool for example, I might want to move something exactly 10 inches along the red axis. I'l grab it with the mouse, move along the red axis some random length, hit enter to lock in the "direction" and technically the move is complete. But then I come back and type "10" and hit enter again to get the exact distance corrected. As long as you don't interact with any other part of the model, or move the camera, you can keep typing numbers all day to keep revising your entries. Hope this makes sense, and that it helps.
  3. Like most software, there are multiple ways to get to the same point in SketchUp. It kind of depends on your preferences. Think of Scenes as camera snapshots. If there is a particular view you want to keep returning to, you'd create a scene for convenience so you don't have to keep manually zooming and hiding unwanted components. It's really handy for creating models for other people too, and you can easily print all your scenes. If you are going to be the only person using the model, and you're comfortable zooming out and panning around to see the view you need at the moment, you don't need to use scenes at all. They are just a convenient way to "bookmark" a view. Among other things, Scenes keep track of which layers are visible and which objects are hidden. To make something invisible, you can either hide it or turn off the layer that it's on. Bob prefers to use the hide method, and I prefer to use layers instead. There is a complicated reason I prefer layers (see this ), but most people won't notice the difference.
  4. I think Terry is on the right track. You might have the component on a layer called "Drawers", but the stuff inside the component can be on "Left Side Layer" or some other layer if you're not careful. It's easier than you might think to do this. Best practice is for each individual line or face to always stay on Layer0, the default layer. When you bundle this stuff into components, put the component on a separate layer but leave all the "inner stuff" on Layer0. I can take a look at your model if you like. PM me for an e-mail address.
  5. You've figured it out, but I'll confirm that this is one of SketchUp's quirks. When you set up a scene, SketchUp only tracks the "highest level" of hidden geometry. So if you have any nested components or groups, you typically have to manage these manually. For this reason, actually hiding stuff is a pain to manage. I've seen models where stuff is hidden and nested, and it actually gets lost because the "unhide" command only works when you are editing the correct group or component where the stuff was originally hidden. Here's a better method though: Use layers. You can put sub-components or groups on a different layer, and turn the layer on and off. The scene manager will track which layer is on and off, so this will do what you want. For example, you might have a component called "Desk" that contains sub-components called "Top", "Drawer Box" and "Leg". Within the top level "Desk" you can put each component on different layers. If you want to hide the drawers for a scene, put them on a layer called "Drawer Layer" and turn off the layer, leaving the rest of the desk visible. The layers can be very powerful, but can also be a little confusing. Things can be on more than one layer, sort of. You could have the top-level component on the "Desk Layer", and a sub-component on the "Drawer Layer". So turning off either one of those layers makes the drawers disappear. But the advantage is that as long as all the layers in the model are turned on, you know everything is visible. These days I only use the "hide" function to get something out of the way temporarily while I edit something else in that area.
  6. Well, it will be tough but I could probably convince all the guys to move the breakfast to your location instead!
  7. The Atlanta chapter of the Modern Woodworkers Association meets for breakfast monthly. We typically meet the second Saturday of the month at the Boulevard Diner in Norcross, about 9am. The MWA was launched with folks from this forum, so it's a good crowd. For more info and to get on the e-mail list for a reminder, contact Chris Adkins at highrockwoodworking@gmail.com. Anybody in the Atlanta area is welcome to join us! If you are from elsewhere and have access to a private jet come on by also. You're buying.
  8. I've got a new (to me) shop coming in the next month or so, and I've been doing some research into soundproofing. Like the OP, the shop will be under living space so I've focused on the ceiling in particular. A site that I found helpful was http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-solutions/soundproof-a-ceiling/. This company sells Green Glue, so of course their solutions always feature that product. But from all the reading I've done about other products, Green Glue seems to be the best bang-for-the-buck. Homebrew remedies like egg cartons don't make me too comfortable, and other solutions like double walls, sound isolation clips, and double walls are too expensive and invasive. For me, I'll likely seal every gap with caulk, then insulate the ceiling with standard pink fiberglass. Finally I'll hang two layers of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue in between the layers. I've seen multiple reports on home theater forums that this is the best results for the least effort and expense.
  9. I'm late to this party, but Bob nailed it. Sometimes you just have to put the mouse down and back away slowly.
  10. This topic comes up from time to time in the forum. Here is another post with some good tips. http://woodtalkonlin...ing-a-template/ SketchUp can handle 2D with no problem, you just have to know which buttons to press. Here is the short version: 1. You must set your camera to parallel projection. On the main menu, Camera then Parallel Projection. 2. You need to set the view so you are looking straight down from the top. Either choose Camera, Standard Views, Top - or just click the Top view button on the toolbar that looks like a little house. If you do this correctly, the word "Top" will appear in the top left corner of the screen. 3. Zoom in to your part. The easiest way is to right click on it and select "zoom extents". You can manually zoom but make sure you don't mess up the camera angle - the word "Top" must remain in the top left corner. 4. When you print, SketchUp wants to print all the visible area on the screen, not just the objects. If you have a widescreen monitor, you could be asking it to print a bunch of empty space on both sides, and this won't fit on one page. If this is the case, resize your SketchUp application window so that it only shows the stuff you want to print. For your template, make it the actual SketchUp application square. 5. Now you are ready to print. Choose File, Print. Uncheck "Fit to page" and under the Scale set both boxes to 1. I notice your model is in millimeters, but this won't matter.
  11. I'd love to know anything Asa would share about the "behind the scenes" stuff. Why did they start the event, what's their targeted niche, etc. Basically, see what you can get out of him that he wouldn't put in print. Give him a few beers first to grease the wheels. Oh, and I hope you broadcast. I'm sure you have a fat enough pipe... oh yuck. Never mind.
  12. I'm late to the thread, and the question has been answered already. But I just wanted to point out that everything in the Guild plans is done with the free version of SketchUp. It's very capable. Oh, and I'm cheap.
  13. Thanks for the help, Dave. Most of the plans for furniture have such small dimensions that it probably makes sense to use mm. Common sense should keep someone from building a workbench 2200 meters long, although that would be very cool to see!
  14. Okay, so no cm in the plans! Would you typically see mm or meters (or metres if you insist) in a woodworking plan?
  15. So for all the folks out there working in metric, can you educate me on what you'd expect to see in the plans? That way I can try to get as close as possible. For instance, the Roubo bench is 87 inches long. For the metric version, are you wanting mm or cm, and to what precision? 87" = 2209.8mm = 220.98cm My best guess is that the metric plans should say 2210mm. It's rare to specify get a dimension with more precision than 1/16", or 1.5875mm. So rounding to the nearest mm seems fine, since this is about a third of the highest tolerance we would ever see. Please let me know if this assumption is wrong, since I've never seen any metric plans. Thanks!