Thanks for the kind words guys ! Colin, feel free to use this idea and make it your own! I'm not going to sell these, so have some fun with it! With a better light they would actually work very well as intended. With the current light, it's about as good as a night light (which is better than nothing at all )..
he does have a way of marrying form and function (with a strong sense of practicality) which Is difficult to do. Regardless, fine job Kiki 😎 ! The creator of a piece is always the worst critic... It's beautiful, so just get over it! 😜
I'd think along the lines of deck finishes. Penofin is a brand name and they make s number of different oil finishes. I'd probably look at their red label ultra premium line.. http://www.penofin.com/wood-stains/index Another option that comes to mind would be Sikkens. It works well, is easy to apply / touchup but is highly pigmented and can somewhat take on the appearance of paint if too many coats are applied. http://www.perfectwoodstains.com/products/deck-stain I think either one of these options would work well for your project :-)
In addition to what Eric mentions, I think I would look more towards some type of an exterior stain or penofin oil. Varnish isn't a tough finish, nor is it really meant for work surfaces (it scratches too easily and is a lot of work to maintain). But does does work well when something just needs to look good and isn't handled much :-)
2 - 3 coats of general finishes milk paint. No primer needed, still lets the texture of the wood grain come through and is tuff as nails.. Some recommend using high performance topcoat, but using that over a white(ish) color has always made the surface yellow for me I've had best results painting and calling it done.
Hey Bart, I'm going to presume a couple things: you prefer the lighter look before you applied the finish? Also the finish you used was oil based? If so, you could try using a water based finish. It won't change the color of the wood, but it also won't make any of the features shine. Personally I kind of like the way it looks now . If you do decide to strip it off and start over, make sure to wipe the surface of the teak with acetone a few minutes before applying the finish so you get good adhesion..
Silicone and I are not good friends, but I've really come to appreciate Dow Corning 795 and 791. Bonds like a mother, and gives good working time for smoothing out. If you look around online you can find it for $10-12 per tube.. Comes in many different colors.