wdwerker

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About wdwerker

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 11/09/1958

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    wdwerker
  • Website URL
    http://www.steveduncan.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
  • Woodworking Interests
    cabinets,bookcases, furniture, unusual wooden objects

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  1. A hot iron can melt the glue sometimes.
  2. At the big IWF woodworking show there is a separate display of machines with air motors. The Amish shops can get permission to have a Diesel engine that runs a big air compressor and possibly a shaft for belt driven tools. So no electricity to the saw.
  3. Both of those work well. I tend to use Woodshopwidget because I have the app. Sagulator is another handy calculator. How thick x depth x width of a shelf will sag under what load. You can add a lip to stiffen the shelf and calculate how tall and or thick it needs to be. You need to read all the instructions and play with it some to figure out how to achieve your goals. When I had a client who wanted several wide shelves for canned goods in a pantry I was caught between available height and a need to support the load. A 3" lip on each shelf meant fewer shelves. A 1 1/2"tall lip made from 8/4 maple was the solution. Sagulator can be used for things like a table apron too.
  4. I would help stiffen things up but isn't nessacary. You should use "z" clips or furniture buttons to attach thet op to the aprons. A 33" wide solid wood top is going to expand and contract with the changes in humidity as much as 7/8". Finish the top separately and put a few coats of finish on the underside to slow changes in moisture. You can't stop it but a raw underside will make things move more.
  5. You are good for a 40 + lb per ft load.
  6. A center cross piece between the aprons couldn't hurt. How tall and thick are the aprons ?
  7. Just use the Semi gloss trim paint and no need for a top coat.
  8. Not the brand the type of paint ! Latex, oil based, chalk paint , acrylic, etc . And is it flat wall paint or semigloss trim paint ?
  9. I have been sharpening my lunchbox planer blades on my Tormek jig for years now. It doesn't get frequent use but the blade holder does let me adjust the blade out to the proper position. A Tormek and the jig are quite pricey but I have sharpened blades late at night and been set up to work again the next morning. It takes so little metal off its like honing them.
  10. What kind of paint did you use ?And what color ? That will make a big difference. Even the super blonde (and most expensive shellac) will add a golden hue to lighter colors. I have used waterbourne finishes over well cured latex paint successfully. Emphasis on well cured ! If a fingernail dents or scratches let it dry some more.
  11. Looks like a plan to me. If your going to stick your neck out go whole hog and stick it way out ! A practice run in poplar might let you explore all the joinery and develop jigs if needed. It could always be painted and used elsewhere or given as a gift.
  12. At that size you could apply pressure with a few concrete blocks. I'm having fun following your project. Couldn't resist the temptation to encourage another layer of detail !
  13. You could veneer the hardboard. Technically you should veneer both sides but the size is so small it should be ok. Or you could just lay up 3 layers of veneer, put the grain of center one at 90 degrees to the faces.
  14. Cut around the worm holes. That means making a lot of small parts. Toys and segmented turnings come to mind.
  15. If the glass is in a commercial office door it's probably tempered. Most tempered glass has a little label etched into the glass in one corner. If it's in a cabinet door or has no label it might not be tempered. But trying to cut tempered will result in little shards.