wdwerker

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Everything posted by wdwerker

  1. Just saw this resurrected thread. Beautiful work blue ! Signed and dated it ? Looks like a family heirloom to me.
  2. I've got some Oregon myrtlewood but I will have to find it and dig it out.
  3. Not to be confused with a "Cat House" , that's a whole nuther thing !
  4. Depending on the bed sheet some coarser fabric might work better. Planer shavings usually don't have all the fine dust a saw produces.
  5. Trim paint dries to a harder surface. You might find primer easier to sand for the first coat.
  6. Butternut is nice to work with but we rarely see it offered around here.
  7. Plenty of drying time, low speed or by hand, and clean your sandpaper often with a crepe rubber block or a gray abrasive pad. As soon as paint starts to load up the sandpaper it's going to do it faster and faster. I prefer water bourne finishes to latex they dry harder and cure faster, but they tend to cost more too. If your going to use latex use satin or semi gloss trim paint, not wall paint.
  8. There are domestic made ply sheets that are formaldehyde free.
  9. The original looks like western red cedar. That is a classic 70's style design feature. Yours looks like the "clear heart" or " A clear " grades of tongue and groove siding. http://www.realcedar.com/siding/profiles/tongue-groove/ That's just the first site I found pictures like your cedar. I have no experience ordering from them. The wood you used on your cat shelf is eastern red cedar, also known as aromatic cedar. That's the stuff used on cedar chests. It comes from a tree in the juniper family. And welcome to the Forum !
  10. Torsion hinges are mainly anti slam to prevent mashed fingers. With an "L" shaped top and the top used as a countertop . I would either lift the top vertically with some ropes, pullies and counterweights or cut some openings in the sides for access or drawers . I don't see a elegant or practical solution.
  11. The 4 mm dominos are so small I switched to using 5/8 Baltic for drawers . It's actually 15 mm thick so a 5 mm Domino centers up beautifully. I use the 1/2" side of my Domiplate with 2 layers of plastic laminate under it as shims. 5mm x 30 Dominos fit in a 15 mm deep mortice in the ends of the drawer front & back with a 12mm deep mortice plunged into the face of the sides of 5/8 Baltic. Both settings actually go enough deeper to make it work.
  12. Wood doesn't change length enough to worry about. It changes the most across the grain on flat sawn boards. Quartersawn boards behave better. Thickness changes a little but is usually not a worry. I don't see any glaring errors in your drawing. Depending on the thickness of your slats you cut the ends of them down until they will fit into a domino mortice. A few strokes with a rasp will round the corners. Make sure you use the exterior Sipo dominos and an exterior rated glue.
  13. Look at Joe Woodworker's site if you want to add vacuum clamping to your shop. It is so nice to hold a part from below and be able to route all 4 sides.
  14. You need an axe to trim a bush ? All sorts of inappropriate comments come to mind !
  15. Do the math on the cost of 32 square feet of solid wood that doesn't need to be glued up to make any significant width and compare it to the cost of a decent sheet of plywood. You'll find that plywood isn't such a bad deal for use on shop furniture. However finger jointed corners made of ply won't glue up near as strong as solid wood ones.
  16. Water filter, sodas, yogurt , ice packs for aches and pains and super glue will be camping in there soon. All in an apartment sized fridge. The 30 pack fridge with the beer is at home.
  17. Look up epoxy coated euro slides. Can be count for $3 - 5 a pair. Of course if the drawers are made it's a moot point. You need 1/2" gap on both sides of the drawer for most metal slides. If you were in Atlanta I would give you 12 pair, I don't use those much any more.
  18. If you aren't using solid wood to make the drawers then why not use metal slides ? They work better and easier to open. Now if you are building a piece of furniture with dovetailed solid wood drawers then going old school for the drawer rails is quite proper.
  19. The impact or hammer action will kill the gears in a right angle attachment. Why don't you just rent a Milwaukee Hole Hawg for a few days? Spend the money on a auger type bit ! A spade bit will wear out and work you to death.
  20. Don't get me wrong,I've used Danish oil close to 40 years. On small solid wood pieces it's a quick easy finish. On large surfaces and plywood there are so many better choices. And I learned the limitations the hard way, screwing up and having to wait several days for it to dry only to get an unsatisfactory result .
  21. Glad you used the figured board ! Oil rubbed bronze pulls might look good on it.
  22. Glad to see you are making progress !
  23. It would take a very powerful sprayer to atomize Danish Oil. And then it would turn into a fog that would hang in the air. Very bad idea ! Wipe on, wipe off. Make some finish test boards on the scraps from your project ! Danish Oil especially the colored varieties don't look that good on birch ply or poplar. Use a dye if you must color the table, then a wiping varnish like General Finishes Arm-r-Seal . or Try Generals Endurovar water bourne finish if you want to spray .
  24. Thanks for the tips ! I have been using a new (to retail packaging) cyanoacrylate type adhesive called "RapidFuse". https://rapidfusewood.dap.com/ It gives you 3 to 5 minutes of open time to align parts and get clamps or fasteners in place. Fully cured in 30 minutes. It's slightly thickened and real easy to use. The Lowes near me carries it $10 for a 4 ounce bottle. Nice cap and tip . I made a miter joint w 2 dominos and realized I had made the parts mirror imaged from what I needed at the 10 minute point. I pulled the clamps and started trying to knock the joint apart, no luck. So I clamped it to the bench and proceeded to beat the hell out of it. By the time I got it apart one side was dented and destroyed (It had to be remade anyways) Its been handy to use on sub assemblies that need to be aligned and glued before assembling the rest of the piece. A big commercial shop that makes raised panel doors for me sometimes has been using it to glue up panels and on the corners of cope & stick and mitered doors for many years. Dap bought the brand to add to their line of adhesives.
  25. The satin has a flattening agent in it. It must be stirred up quite well before using or mixing. As to matching the existing floor sheen that's going to take a good bit of testing and careful application. Practice on the least visible spots. If you wait a week or more you might be able to use an grey or white abrasive pad to reduce the sheen on a too glossy spot. Or you could buff the entire floor .