wdwerker

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Everything posted by wdwerker

  1. If you need a feather board to hold down off the fence put a clamp on the back end of the fence. Check the distance to the miter slots front and rear before you rip to avoid the clamp pushing the fence out of alignment.
  2. Check the moisture content. If you don't have a moisture meter weigh one of the curled strips on an accurate digital scale, record it and weigh every few days. If the weight keeps lessening wait until the weigh stabilizes for a few weeks. If the weight is stable then the wood either grew with tension in it or was poorly dried.
  3. Only if you can find a plug like that for a 30 amp outlet. Different amp ratings of 240 outlets have different blade shapes and positions. I belive there are more than one plug shape for 30 amp dryers, age and code requirements can vary.
  4. My Vega tee square fence only has a UMHW plastic block riding on the rear rail. The rear rail also helps support the right extension table. Some of those rear hooks keep the fence from lifting up.
  5. The iron & pva glue trick works well but it needs to be rubbed,down as it cools to prevent any gaps or bubbles . So large surfaces need to be a team effort and there is a definite cap to the size possible. An inside curve needs a curved block to burnish the surface as it cools. Definitely practice before you scale up to the full size project !
  6. 1/2 the width is as small as I would go with a heavy weighted base. Somewhere between that to 2/3 is safer. I played with a number of width legs/base " x" on pedestal tables. And prefer to err on the safer side.
  7. Most of the reclaimed "heart pine " available around here these days comes from industrial buildings up north that had brick exterior walls and a post and beam interior frame. Floor joists were spaced up to 6' apart and the floor decking was 3" or 4" thick double or triple tongue and groove, so the floor deck was structural. The guy I buy from gets rail cars full of the wood when a 3 or 4 story building is demolished. They de-nail it and check twice with a huge metal detector. Then it gets resawed primarily into flooring and graded depending on the holes and stains from metal fasteners. I have counted 30-40 growth rings per inch. The higher grades can go for $25 a board foot !
  8. I wouldn't try resawing anything longer than about 3 or 4 ft long. Even at that length you will need some sort of outfeed table to support the log and jig as you finish the cut. A tall and square fence is needed too. Some saws will tend to skew left or right to get uniform cuts. A good fence will be set parallel to this line. Maybe you should read up on tracking and tuning your saw then try resawing something that will fit under your saw as it is. It ain't always as easy as you might think !
  9. Maybe a neighbors dog jumped the fence ?
  10. Factories use spray on leave on stains. They also use tints in the first coats of the finish to achieve that uniform dark finish. You could have stopped at 120 or 150 grit and gotten a little darker results. I would try the PolyShades tinted finish in very thin coats to see if that might help even things out. I don't love that stuff but it may save you from starting over.
  11. Spraying waterbourne works fine. Light coats at first and sand lightly between coats no matter what you spray. Sand the edges to a very fine grit. I spray the edges a few coats before I spray the faces. If there is a primer available use it ! Much easier to sand and build a good smooth base for the best results.
  12. You might try hanging it just from the center of the "x" handle so it could be moved a bit without taking it off the display. The backdrop could have curtains on each side to make it look like a stage. Sounds like a fun challenge !
  13. There are usually several parts in the height riser kit. Longer bolt and spacer block for the collum. Longer guard for the blade at the collum. Longer shaft for the blade guides and a longer blade guard for that side as well. Maybe a Jet height kit might fit ?
  14. Build a jig and run them through the tablesaw to get a kerf in each side the log then finish the cut with a handsaw or a Sawzall. Joint or hand plane that face then back to the jig to rip a edge 90 degrees to the face. Now you have a section small enough to resaw. Jig just needs to hold the log from the ends so it won't roll when on the saw.
  15. So that's how Skynet got a foothold in the homes !
  16. For many years I would add a new machine when I was tackling a big project. I takes years to build a shop unless you have plenty of disposable income.
  17. One more reason to use the MKii Jig from Veritas ! Trust me I made those mistakes too.
  18. Great use of some small live edge stock ! Very well executed too. Is that one of those Nest thermostats ?
  19. I helps if the ladies have plenty of prior experience in the dancing and hospitality fields. Then it's up to your powers of persuasion.....
  20. I belive having an assistant to do the sanding is the first step on the path to nirvana !
  21. You don't tell a man that's planning to sell one that ! There goes plausible deny ability .
  22. Looks pretty good, but let's see a drawer in the open position ! That's the real test. Do they all run smoothly ?
  23. Hey Pondhockey , you talkin about me ? Way to many comments that shouldn't be posted here..... I can gaze fondly at my outfeed table and remember the ladies dancing on it !
  24. Pictures would really help.