Check with Traincollectors.org, Model Railroader (if they don't want them, they can at least quote you a rate on the ad), collector's weekly (dot com), and maybe the Golden Spike museum. If nothing else, they can point you in better directions.
My dad used to be a real estate agent. I went with him a couple of times to show houses to clients. Each time, he would direct clients to houses that fit the bill of what they were looking for. If they wanted an area to put in a shop, that would go on the list. Not having to sink $5,000 into a basement build after sinking $200,000 into a house purchase would also go on the list.
Of all the houses he showed, none had an unfinished basement section. Doesn't mean there weren't some out there, just means I never saw one.
My brother in law purchased a house (prior to being transferred to Georgia) that had a workshop room in the basement. The benches stayed (wrap-around heavy construction grade lumber) and had minimal outlets. He was excited by it because he didn't do a lot of wood working. (And if he wanted to do any, he just had to run to the neighbor's house, which had a stand alone shop in the back yard. Joe offered. Several times.)
My suggestion? 1: talk to a real estate agent. 2: move out your tools, except for one or two to stage the room. 3: consider hiring a staging crew for the rest of the house, as well. 4: At least put up a coat of paint and clean the dust/webs out of the corners. It doesn't matter what you have the room set at right now; what matters is that a prospective buyer can see what options the room has for their needs, and thinks the place is a match.
(Besides, most home owners put up a new coat of paint shortly after purchasing, changing the colors you just put up to hide the repairs you had to do to sell the place. Besides purchasing it, making the new place feel like "theirs" is the most important thing home buyers do. Oh, and making you finish off the basement as a condition of closing is a little harsh. Just my opinion, but I hope you got to include some of the expense as a closing cost.)
I've heard recently that this is an underpowered shop vac. works great for one or two tools, but can't be hooked up like a regular dust collector. Just so you don't walk in expecting more out of it.
I'd second the Dust Deputy, or any of the similar products they or others offer. For a smaller shop, you are better off with a "mobile DC station": dragging the vacuum system you use from site to site. (My shop is similar: I have under 100 square feet, so I can leave a smaller vac in one place and simply stretch the cord another couple of inches.)
There's a lot of options out there if you wanted to make a cyclonic separator. Rather than confuse or dive in too deep, I recommend getting the kit and moving on. As for buckets...
You could buy the bucket from Oneida when you get the Dust Deputy. You could buy a bucket from Lowe's or Home Depot. (Or Harbor Freight... they occasionally have them.) Or, look for food grade buckets. I've picked up a couple drywall buckets, a couple paint buckets (surplus paint store), and a couple icing buckets. (From cake decorators.) The used buckets that you have to clean out you can probably pick up for free... contractors, specialty shops, etc., may be willing to have them get out of their shop/trash for no cost.
as for running out of your home: IRS lets you run an office out of your home. (plenty of restrictions, though. No sharing purposes, for one.) But that's the IRS, not your loco...er... local community. Best thing I can think of is that the office where the paperwork is going to get done can be at home, but the shop where the actual work gets done needs to be someplace else. (which is why I'm looking into a mobile shop now... but that's a different story.)
Want to thank everybody who helped out on this. Ended the class and got good marks on the project.
During post-class (and post-graduation) research into this project, realized I was charging almost double for a replica of something that is available from the original manufacturer... so some parts will need to be rewritten.
I"m not giving up, just trying to find a better way. (And one that will continue to let me eat.) But thank you again for all your input. Wouldn't have been able to accomplish as much as I did without you guys.
If you're building will be square, I'd suggest splitting the floor into three main zones: storage and prep by the front door, main work and big tools by the back (near the fire extinguishers and med kits), and a finishing room (or at least the hanging curtains a la hospital ERs) along the side and exiting the front door again. If you don't put the doors to the finishing area wide enough to get the parts/ finished pieces in or out, you get yelled at for constantly cluttering the space.... er... I mean... Work doesn't get completed. (Yeah, that's what I meant...)
I've been in a garage shop, I've been in a basement shop, and I've been outdoors. Being able to work year round is a blessing! Insulate and climate regulate (not the same as climate control). Light. Lots of options on light. Shade. (Because natural light is great until it's at the wrong angle when you're in "the zone," and don't want to stop just because you can't see any more, or the colors are starting to wash out.) Small counter space (large enough for beverages, not large enough for tools). Critter control. (Don't ask, but trust me on this.) Fire pit. (Some scraps just beg for a smoker, others just beg to be put out of misery.) Photography area. Nothing fancy, just a cleared out space with a good backdrop or wall you can take a few photos of completed and finished projects.
Space for projects to rest while the glue dries. (I've got two in the living room. Not a great option; trust me.)
One footed access to a sink. (Just in case.) Keep the medical supplies by it, as well as an eye wash station.
Tunes. Because watching finish dry is better when Jimmy Buffet/Lincoln Park/Reba/John Williams/The Cure is playing.
Cardstock invitations to your grand opening. (Because we all want to drop by eventually. Some may even congratulate you on this new play space!)
I'm fortunate that I'm in driving range of several HD's (where I won't go to anymore), Lowes', a Woodcraft, a Rockler I can't find or deal with, a Menards, as well as local lumber yards and construction supply companies. I'm unfortunate that they all expect me to pay for stuff there, and don't have the gas money or budget to drive there and purchase items. Oh well...
Anybody wanna buy a kid so I can get more tools? (j/k) They don't work but expect to be fed regularly. (So you know they won't mess with your tools.)
I use this exact dye on leather projects. There is a couple of finishes you can use, but PB already said the preferred one. Yes, this stuff will fade, which is why most of the time leather does not get a sealant finish. Leather has more of a moisture issue than wood, but it's willing to accept oils as a substitute. Most of the time, I've just left the leather alone after dying it, unless I want a particular place to remain a specific color.
I did have an instance in jr. high where I painted a tool box with one rattle can, and the next day grabbed a different can of a different color (because someone else was using the first one). That's when I had my crinkle issue: the upper coat wasn't the same as the lower coat. (Latex/Enamel. Lesson learned.) Hope that's not your issue...
The Rockler near me was a corporate store (at least, the one I shopped at, anyway.) When they sold a franchise to a local guy, they had to close the store down. I've had nothing but problems since then. So, I've patronized the local Woodcraft. While I do worry about their ability to stay in business because I worry about places I enjoy going remaining open, their customer service, their friendly nature, their patience, and their classroom projects should keep them open for a while.
Locally, there's not a lot of private retail for their kind of niche, although there are lumber centers and dealers around. It's more the rest of what they offer that I appreciate.
I, too, was concerned when I got that email. But I've never seen that stuff on the floor or shelves while at my local franchise. I get the impression the franchise owners have the right to not carry some items. (Kind of like McDonald's: at participating restaurants.) As for corporate stores, I'd imagine there aren't really that many. I seem to remember reading once that they only had two or three.... but I could be mistaken.
The only reason I don't like to throw a good square in right away is that it's important to learn why your cuts don't line up right. You can't do that if you're looking for square. It seems counterintuitive, but just using the table saw and the tape measure to make a footstool (for example), you learn a whole lot, and have found areas that you need to address.
Best part of a footstool project is that you can get one board from the Big Box lumber store (Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, whatever) and make two cuts: one at 90 degrees to cut off the top, and one at some angle between 0 and 15 on the indicator on your table saw. A little geometry, and you have two legs at matching angles (if you flip the second leg over).
When you test the two pieces together, that's where the square will come in very handy... and that's when your own personal lightbulb should start to go off.
As for speed squares... well, you gets what you pays for. I've got two from Harbor Freight that are very speedy, but not very square. (Both were gifts to me, so I can't complain, but ...) If you really want to spend the money on a square or engineering square that you'll probably use the rest of your life, look into Starret squares. (Full disclosure: I do own stock in them, and they are not cheap.) But you don't have to spend the big bucks to get a good tool. Use the verification method wtnhighlander gave you to test your square (not just the speed square) before you buy it.
I'd suggest a good combination square as well as a tape measure be the next two purchases you make. Then, get some form of marking knife. Be it a box cutter, a purpose made marking knife, a pocket knife, whatever. Be consistent with it during your projects, through to completion.
The next tool purchase I would suggest is a drill or sander. But that is entirely up to you, and not essential. (Who knows? Maybe you'll want a stapler so you can put cushions on that stepstool you made.)