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HuxleyWood last won the day on June 21 2012

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  1. The problem is the original WR planes were not copies of the Bedrock but copies of the LN's updating of the bedrock. They were subsequently changed after LN pulled their line from WC. There was plenty of documentation of this 8-9 years ago but I don't have it on hand but it is certainly still in the ether if someone cares about it enough to look. My suggestion of a fully prepped and ready to go plane for a beginner is not that they should not or will not gain those skills (sharpening is an absolute necessity) but it gives them a tactile and visual benchmark of how a plane should function. I have used many novices planes who were quite happy with them but they had no idea how much performance they were leaving on the table. While this is true with many things in life the difference in cost between an OK plane and a very good plane is subjectively quite small where with many other items the divide in cost is far too much to suggest a new user jump to that level.
  2. I won't buy WR planes out of principle considering the way they "borrowed" the IP for their initial offerings. That said they are "decent" but even tuned still have too much backlash and just fall short of the premium planes, but they do fill a middle ground for new planes that was lacking prior to their introduction. I have an unusual take on planes for beginners, I think a beginner is best served with a high quality, basically ready to go out of the box, plane like LN and Veritas (as well as the true high end planes). This way a beginner actually knows the bar they are looking to achieve when they tune up old or cheaper planes. It is hard to know what good is until you actually experience good.
  3. The Woodslicer (or the Blade Runner/Kerfmaster as Iturra/Spectrum Supply call them) has a cut quality VERY close to the best carbide resaw blades, it just costs more in the long run since the impulse hardened spring steel teeth are very soft compared to carbide. 5fpm is pretty fast on a saw with less than 5hp/4000 fpm I usually resaw (with a feeder) at 2.5fpm for the best quality and even that is with significant hp and blade speed, To the OP IMO you best choices are the Laguna 14/12 and the Rikon 10-326 with the lean toward the Laguna.
  4. Of the routers I have my favorite mid-sized plunger is the OF1400 but it is expensive, my second favorite is the Bosch MRC23, I have two of the latter and it IMO is much better than the older 1617.
  5. I prefer wheel markers and have several Veritas and Tite-mark around the shop. The TM is the better of the two but costs more.
  6. Friction, heat, rinse and repeat. All hook and loop pads are wear items but Abranet tends to speed up the destruction.
  7. While I know this was (half) in jest I would expect it would be very easy to get your money back less a rental fee by selling it on FOG once you are finished with it.
  8. While the number of RAS users is relatively small, I gave mine up 3 years ago, I think the bigger problem is the subset of people that use both a CSMS and a RAS is getting extremely small.
  9. Lee Valley just added it to their catalog in the last week, prior to that people bought them from Axminster in the UK, depending on the exchange rate at the time it can still be cheaper from Axminster if you can wait a few extra days (roughly 10 days from the UK). Peter has done a series of videos on the system including a 4 cut to show the accuracy of the system. This is the basic overview.
  10. There are multiple ways to get an accurate MFT like 96mm x 20mm grid top, my favorite vs a CNC cut top is the UJK Parf Guide System that is now available through Lee Valley. It allows you to make any size top you want and would be a great way to augment the top of an outfeed table. Keep in mind once you have the guides you can use a router with the guides as well.
  11. Mirka sells pad protectors to save the pad. They are a lot cheaper than replacement pads and work well. I have them on both my Mirka and Festool sanders.
  12. The problem with the 14" saws you list is although you can take them off the stand if you put them on a bench top they will be too tall for most people. Putting them on a similar sized stand doesn't fix the issue. A 14" bandsaw really isn't portable in the sense of putting it on and off a bench anyway. If you actually need it to be portable I think you are kinda stuck with the 9"-12" saws or a 14" on a mobile base. I am excluding niche saws that would have to be found used like an Inca 3 wheeler (much better than the rest of the small 3 wheelers but still a blade breaker) or a lightweight cast aluminum saw like a Beaver 3300 which is light enough for most to horse onto and off a bench but rare to find unless you are near the Canadian border (or in Canada).
  13. While I have seen some stupid low prices on big saws that is on the "scrap iron" end of pricing. One has to keep in mind tires alone on a 36" saw can run 600-700 bucks. Plus the 1.5hp motor is pretty suspect, for a old 36" saw you want to see 5, 7.5 or even 10hp and DMD is always preferable to belt drive if the motor is solid (you do NOT want to have a big old DMD motor rewound, DAMHIK. Plenty of those size saws get moved by old arn lovers but it is not for the faint of heart or ill equipped and many (most?) hobbyists don't have the vertical clearance to get them through the door. While an interesting subject, to me anyway, I doubt the OP is contemplating the jump from a 14" PC to a 36" behemoth.
  14. While that depends on the brand etc a 36" cast saw usually runs just over 2,000 pounds up to 3,000 pounds and height from just over 100" to around 115" for most of the "standard" builds.
  15. I find white quite boring. With the cost of lumens these days I see no reason to be concerned about reflecting photons back into the shop. The only way to see what a piece will look like it to take samples (or the whole) into the space it will reside so IMO the only reason to use white (or the proper shade of grey) in the shop would be for photography but even that is easy enough to work around today. There is always talk about seeing the "true" color of the wood but rarely discussions of what it will look like in situ or bulb temperatures or CRI for these white shops. I like color, I don't sit around the house in stark white rooms, but recognize that museum white comes in and out of vogue. My opinion is paint a shop whatever color strikes your fancy as long as you have or are willing to add enough direct light to work easily and safely. I do tend to prefer a white ceiling (or one with a tiny amount of the wall tint) since it tends to visually keep the space open.