Hey guys, A buddy of mine that lives in the San Diego area is looking for someone to build a "modern" sliding door between his master bedroom and bath. He is not looking for a solid wood door, so mdf would probably suffice for the design and build. Please shoot me an email, if you're interested and I'll get you connected. Regards, Vic email@example.com
I looked up the spec sheet on that. It is a normal ballast factor ballast ballast. I drive the lumens at .87 of the rated lumens. I think a high ballast factor would be better, but that should do. Where are you buying your fixtures? Are they a package deal or? make sure the lamp is am 800 series. like F32/850...as opposed to F32/735. the 8 and 7 signify the color rendering index of 80s and 70s, respectively. The 50 and 35 or the Kelvin temps 5000 and 3500, respectively.
wtnhighlander, my day job would be the guy you deal with for incentives at the local utility. I develop energy projects in the industrial commercial and agriculture sectors. That's how I've learned about this stuff. Yes, in an industrial setting the O&M savings are huge. The saving in cold storage is also huge, due to much less heat for the same light output. My payback numbers are average for specifically tube replacement in a small commercial project, which would equate well to a shop and at our local energy rate of $0.0731/kWh.
Pug, ballasts for high performance T8s come in low, normal and high output. It is commonly denoted as L, N, and H.For Sylvania you?ll see ISL, ISN< ISH, GE use Max-L, Max-N, Max-H. The easiest thing is to check the specification sheet. Looks for Ballast Factor. Low is approx. .77, Normal - .9 and High - 1.15. It determines how may lumens it pushes for the lamps. A typical T8 lamp produces 3100 lumens. combine that with a high ballast factor ballast and you get 3100 x 1.15 = 3565 lumens. it also draws more power, but not a problem if you want the light. If you plan on using occupancy sensors, be sure to use program start ballasts.
In a couple years, tubular LED will be at a point you will not need to learn how to read LM-79 and LM-80 test sheets, but for now there is still a lot of inferior product on the market and you should consult an expert to make sure you're getting a quality product that will last the stated life expectancy.
Pug, if you're on Facebook, look me up. PM me a photo of what you'd like to buy and I'll let you know if it is a decent product. Otherwise, look it up on the CEE for T8s. If you want to go with LED, then look those up on the Design Lights Consortium website. http://www.designlights.org/qpl
I apologize if the hotlinks don't come throuh. I'm typing on my DiNovia keyboard for our entertainment center PC.
Hey Pug! Paul-Marcel said you wanted a little advice.
For simple cost effectiveness, T-8s are still the best buy. My recommendation for 5000 Kelvin temperature has to do with scotopics. Basically, you see better in a whiter light at lower light levels. It is mostly a personal preference, but one I see employed regularly in shop/production type facilities. I still have 4100 Kelvin lamps, but will change when I finally can afford to go to LED tubes. At the rate they are coming down in price, that will probably be within two years. It's wild that two years ago the simple payback going from T12 to the LED tubes were 35 years and now they are about 5 years.
The only software I'm aware of that is free is also far from user friendly. You have to know a lot about lighting to fill it out. As far as spacing, mostly think in terms of shadows. If you read the article I did for Marc, you know my ceiling height is 10 feet and I have my 4 lamp, 4 foot fixtures set at the ceiling at 10 foot on center. For a narrow and long space such as yours, I would use the reflective properties of the wall (use white or a light color) and space 2 lamp fixtures 1 1/2 to 2 feet in at each end and along the length on each side. You can probably get buy with a total of 6 fixtures. I'd split that into two circuits, if it's convenient, front and back.
These are "back of the napkin" layouts, but should give you good enough light. With these type of fixtures, it is easy enough to add to a circuit with a little conduit and wire, also. I would go with a high ballast factor to drive the lumens at their maximum.
I believe I referenced a site that lists "approved" fixtures in the article for Marc. I would definitely buy something that is on that very expansive list.
Sounds like you should have a very comfortable shop. Enjoy!
But a very rewarding one! I'm looking forward to snow still and snow shoeing. Here's some shots from our last trip out. Shelby got attacked by an Akita shortly after this while walking in the back forty of our house. It cut the season short. She's all healed up now and ready to go! http://www.flickr.com/photos/tumblewoodcreations/sets/72157632372070194/
I used the PVA glue trick last year on this piece. The wood was walnut on a plywood substrate. Worked like a champ and has held in place with no problems. Be willing to experiment. There are a lot of differing opinions out there. Google can usually lend you different sides to just about anything. Here's a video I found for you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxUKc4JWBaI
Bobby, and all. Aside from slight efficiency gains with design, a watt is a watt is a watt. Regular electric heating is simple resistance. There is no great gain of one unit that has a 1500 watt rating over any other unit with the same wattage. The only time you get more energy out for that watt is with the use of a refrigerant system (heatpump). The most important thing is to air seal and insulate the envelope. The larger the cumulative hole in your envelope the more expensive it is to heat or cool.
Freddie, I have Mitsubishi in both my shop and house. I have a multi head unit in the house and a single 2 ton in the shop. Daikin and Fujistu are both also very good units that have a solid track record. I believe Daikin recently introduced a unit that you can control from a smart phone, which is cool. I'm a huge fan of the Nest thermostat, which doesn't currently play with split systems.
For everyone's general info, ductless heatpumps come in wide ranges of efficiency. My unit will keep up very well into the single digits. Below that, I start losing efficiency. I've yet to have to employ my 95+% efficient LP gas furnace. I'm hoping it won't be long before the models sold in Scandinavian countries make it to the US market. They will heat down to 17 below 0 F. Pretty impressive!