If you're interested in reading about my experience I posted the project on lumberjocks.

Thanks for this project Marc. I learned a lot by doing this.

I was waiting some daylight pictures, the other ones were so-so.

Before someone ask, I didn't do the straps yet, two persons (including wife) told me they like it better like that. So I'm not sure anymore, I will see maybe later.

African Mahogany

Black ebony

Darrell's Dye Recipe / Danish Oil / 3 coat of lacquer

2 Rockler Hinges

Hi everyone!

I finally finished my chest this week. I used African Mahogany and Ebony, and a 3:2 ratio of General Finishes Medium Brown to Cinnamon, followed by the lacquer finish, and the color came out great. The color matches our living room furniture perfectly, but I have to admit that all those ebony plugs (and all that work!) are a little more subdued that I would have liked. That said, even though the base color is a deep brown, the afternoon sun simply makes it glow like a fine cabernet. This is my first "real" piece of furniture, and I'm very happy with the results. I've only been acquainted with Greene and Greene for about 2 years now, and I've always hoped to do a project that is worthy of that level of craftsmanship. 

Thanks Marc for a terrific project and series, to Aaron for another masterful set of plans, and to all of you who posted and shared your inspiration along the way!

All the best,

Allen 

Maybe I'm just not ready to part with this project because I'm thinking of adding cedar lining and a till.

Most cedar linings I see are vertical and I do like that look. I'm worried that it would wrong against the horizontal boards of our chest. Of course, I'd be back to a "figuring out" phase on how to install the cedar. I've never done that before. My chest is walnut. Lining the bottom would make that walnut ply a waste. Oh well.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on adding the cedar at all, the orientation and any technique tips. I'm still reading posts elsewhere but you guys know first hand what I'm building.

Thanks!

Has anyone thought of or think it would be usefull to put a divider in the middle. Thinking of this for 2 reasons. First to help stop warping and secondly could put some sliding trays at one end. Would be attached by sliding dovetail with maybe a cloudlift on the top.

Also after routing out my fingers using the template I thought they would be a very snug fit but although not loose and have no wobble, they do slide together very easily. Not concerned about this just interested in others results.

I will pull my finger out and take some photo's soon.

cheers

As you can see, I went with 9 fingers on the case and some other variations from the plan, no handles and I skipped a couple of plugs on the breadboards.   I'm happy with the way it came out.  I did GF, 2-1, orange to medium brown and GF Arm-R-Seal.  I'm not 100% thrilled with the finish and was looking for that butter soft feel to the top, but there are some nibs I can't seem to avoid.  This is technique, I think, as the finish itself is pretty easy to work with.   If I put a thin, ie dries before too much debris falls into it, coat on it can streak.   I may attempt to rub it out and wax it but am loath to potentially ruin what there now. 

For now, its done...  unless I do straps!  hahaha

-Tom

Marc, thanks for making this approachable.  I've been woodworking for a few years but never gotten into anything this ambitious as far as joinery goes.  The follow along of the videos and ability to rewatch and review were a huge help.

I'm thinking of using walnut for this project.i love walnut and just picked up some up at $3 bd ft,which is cheap here.

Would like to hear general thoughts,as well as suggestions for the plugs. Something light colored? Maple good enough?

thank you!

2 of the panels had just enough bow/unevenness? where I had to plane them down to 11/16, so I had to mill all the panels to 11/16th. 

That will not be too thin will it, strength wise?

I'm using Red Oak at 8+ inches wide (2 boards) eventually cut down to the 15 1/2 inch height

I used a 6 inch jointer and then marc's method on the thickness planer , using a known flat panel (mdf) to get the board to go thru the thickness planer properly.  

I definitely want the breadboard ends to stand proud of the top. I have plenty of 4/4 that I could face joint and then plane down to thickness for this and it would match perfectly, but I'm concerned that the long tenons in the top (and the screws and tight fit of the ebony plugs along the sides) may want to split the breadboards along the thickness plane. Is my concern warranted? Should I hold off until I find some true 5/4? 

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions!

So this is how far I've gotten so far.

Maybe I just need to accept the small gap b/t the plywood and frame in one of the corners....

thanks

I can't make any promises as Aaron and I are just now batting ideas back and forth, but if I decide to do this, it will most likely be the focus of the video coming up in two weeks. 

Seems like a creative way to address the depth concern without any visual modifications.

Feel free to explore the idea in this thread. As soon as Aaron and I come up with something we both like, I'll make updates to the plans and keep you guys in the loop.