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	<title>WTO - All Forums (by latest post)</title>
	<description>Latest Topics sort by most recent posts.</description>
	<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com</link>
	<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 13:16:35 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Nexabond Glue Up on Plywood Edges</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13525-nexabond-glue-up-on-plywood-edges/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p  style="font-size:11px;font-family:Helvetica"><span>The Nexabond pamphlet shows the glue up of various solid wood joints, but the project I was on required the edge banding of solid wood strips to plywood shelves.&nbsp; So I thought this would be a good test to see how Nexabond worked on these thirsty plywood edges.</span></p>
<p  style="font-size:11px;font-family:Helvetica">&nbsp;</p>
<p  style="font-size:11px;font-family:Helvetica"><span>I stood the shelves on edge (they were only lightly sanded as prep), and squiggled on a bead of Nexabond to this surface ONLY!&nbsp; I placed the wood edging in place by hand and rubbed it around a bit to distribute the glue.&nbsp; Then I taped the edging in place with painters tape and laid the shelf on two clamps to prevent contact with my work surface.</span></p>
<p  style="font-size:11px;font-family:Helvetica">&nbsp;</p>
<p  style="font-size:11px;font-family:Helvetica"><span>I then repeated this with the second shelf.&nbsp; By the time I finished taping this piece, the first piece was cured!!&nbsp; I immediately got my chisel and trimmed the banding flush.&nbsp; Any glue sueeze out was easily removed by the chisel at the same time.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p  style="font-size:11px;font-family:Helvetica">&nbsp;</p>
<p  style="font-size:11px;font-family:Helvetica"><span>The perimeter of 3 shelves (11”x 33”) were completely banded and trimmed in under 90 minutes.&nbsp; Normally with my Titebond, I’ll glue up all edges on one day, and leave them clamped/taped until the next day to assure full cure.</span></p>
<p  style="font-size:11px;font-family:Helvetica">&nbsp;</p>
<p  style="font-size:11px;font-family:Helvetica"><span>This Nexabond was amazing giving clean, crisp glue lines with great strength!!&nbsp; I’m sold!</span></p>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 13:16:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13525-nexabond-glue-up-on-plywood-edges/</guid>
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		<title>bessey clamp question</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13661-bessey-clamp-question/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>rockler is having a sale on some bessey clamps. The traditional F style 24" are 9.99. But, there's a K-body set (2x24" + 2x50") for 169. I was thinking of getting 6 of the F-type, but wonder if I should just double the spending and go for the goods. ok, I know it's more than double, but curious what folks think. Are those parallels THAT much better? I know in Marc's video a while back he thought so. but damn they are quite a bit more spendy.</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 13:02:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13661-bessey-clamp-question/</guid>
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		<title>Chris Schwarz Workbench book wanted</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13649-chris-schwarz-workbench-book-wanted/</link>
		<description>Please pm if you have an extra copy</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 12:40:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13649-chris-schwarz-workbench-book-wanted/</guid>
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		<title>stickering material</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13656-stickering-material/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>I had an argument with a fellow woodworker the other day...it was a friendly argument, no blood shed lol....but wanted to get your opinion.&nbsp; It was about what material to make stickers out of for stacking wood...I was always under the assumption that the only factors were dry and straight but he claims there is a specific&nbsp;species of wood that the industry uses...he couldn't remember the species so I figured he was full of crap.&nbsp; I make a lot of furniture but also my fair share of custom cabinetry...so I always have tons of cut off 3/4 plywood and I used to save the scraps for jigs and push sticks but come on you can only make so much of those....and I started cutting them up into 1" strips and using them as stickers...I figured its stable, dry, straight, and uniform...is this ok or am I missing something here...thanks guys</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 12:25:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13656-stickering-material/</guid>
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		<title>Stanley No 4 and 5 for $40 CAD</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13386-stanley-no-4-and-5-for-40-cad/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p><a href='http://www.kijiji.ca/v-hand-tool/bridgewater/stanley-hand-planes/565935411' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://www.kijiji.ca/v-hand-tool/bridgewater/stanley-hand-planes/565935411</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>What do you think? I've already sent an email to try and find out how old the planes are. I don't like the look of the No 5's handles, but that could be the photos and anyway they are replaceable.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>For $40 CAD (which isn't that much different from $40 US right now), I might take a chance on them but not if they are complete junk. Obviously they need a lot of work, but I don't mind that so much if they are diamonds in the rough.</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 12:08:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13386-stanley-no-4-and-5-for-40-cad/</guid>
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		<title>Garage shop demo and remodel</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/11413-garage-shop-demo-and-remodel/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Hey guys,&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>I finally started the process of gutting my garage shop to insulate, wire, and fully close the work space to control temperature and humidity. RIght now, it is disgustingly hot and humid with no insulation or ac. I will be installing a full ceiling and a door at the end of the hall. This will fully enclose the shop area. Probably will end up going with an epoxy floor.&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Definite plans include-</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>-2x8 ceiling joists, 12oc for the 12.5' wide span of the shop</p>
<p>-2x8 ceiling joists, 16oc for the 10' and under spans</p>
<p>- R-19 in the ceilings</p>
<p>- R-13 in the 2x4 walls</p>
<p>- 5/8" drywall</p>
<p>- sub panel installed in garage</p>
<p>- ductless mini split with heat pump</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><iframe id="ytplayer" class="EmbeddedVideo" type="text/html" width="640" height="390" src="http://youtube.com/embed/ZBHryCagc0g?html5=1&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen /></iframe></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Sorry about the narrow frame in the video, I held my phone upright. Next one will be easier to watch hopefully.&nbsp;</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 12:05:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/11413-garage-shop-demo-and-remodel/</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Jointers: Delta 37-380 or a Powermatic 60A?</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13653-jointers-delta-37-380-or-a-powermatic-60a/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Both are of similar age and appear to be in very good condition. Asking $900 for the Powermatic and $750 for the Delta.</p>
<p>Please discuss the pros and cons of these machines compared to each other, if you would be so kind.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>I doubt I have much time to decide.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Cheers!</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 12:05:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13653-jointers-delta-37-380-or-a-powermatic-60a/</guid>
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		<title>Learned to make videos</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13643-learned-to-make-videos/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>I made my first video tonight in the shop just putzing around. This will be the first of many documentations where I will document my builds. I felt like a champ tonight, I finally learned and I have wanted to learn for a long time now.&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><iframe id="ytplayer" class="EmbeddedVideo" type="text/html" width="640" height="390" src="http://youtube.com/embed/2fztXHVhEAs?html5=1&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen /></iframe></p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 11:57:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13643-learned-to-make-videos/</guid>
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		<title>Why would I be seeing and smelling something burning with a new table saw?</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13660-why-would-i-be-seeing-and-smelling-something-burning-with-a-new-table-saw/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Hello again guys. &nbsp;Another newbie question for yall. &nbsp;So I recently bought from Lowes a portable bosch table saw for about 600 I think. &nbsp;I typically use the blade that comes with it or I'll use a finishing blade on it when I want a final clean cut on something. &nbsp;<br>
I only use pine and various scrape pine from the pile of throw-aways at a house construction site. &nbsp;(great way to get free scrapes).</p>
<p>I haven't figured out why I sometimes see white smoke and even burnt areas on the wood. &nbsp;</p>
<p>I pushing steady and slow.</p>
<p>I only have the teeth sticking up higher than the wood by a &nbsp;little bit. &nbsp;<br>
My blade seems secured and straight.</p>
<p>But it doesn't happen alot. &nbsp;I use it every weekend just about. &nbsp;</p>
<p>So what could I be missing?</p>
<p>Oh,..and the motor doesn't sound like its slowing or bogging down,..I don't think it is.&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Thx for any feedback. &nbsp;I would hate to ruin a great saw that is only about 2 months old.&nbsp;</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 11:39:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13660-why-would-i-be-seeing-and-smelling-something-burning-with-a-new-table-saw/</guid>
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		<title>Dust collection hose holder</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13357-dust-collection-hose-holder/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Having spent some time this weekend trying to hold the hose for my shop vac whilst I'm sanding with my spindle sander on my drill press, I could really have done with one of these:</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><iframe id="ytplayer" class="EmbeddedVideo" type="text/html" width="640" height="390" src="http://youtube.com/embed/NePge9UlIzw?html5=1&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen /></iframe></p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 11:28:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13357-dust-collection-hose-holder/</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Gun Case Foam</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13645-gun-case-foam/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>I am building a small, portable gun case and want foam for the interior.&nbsp; Anyone have sources who sell this?</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 11:08:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13645-gun-case-foam/</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Site I built to track woodworking blogs - woodspotting.com</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13663-site-i-built-to-track-woodworking-blogs-woodspottingcom/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p><span  style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">Hi folks, as an amateur woodworker and professional software developer, I don't usually find an overlap in my hobby and professional life (which is the whole point), but I recently put together a website,&nbsp;</span><a href='http://www.woodspotting.com/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>woodspotting.com</a><span  style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">, to scratch my own itch of tracking woodworking blogs. It's saved me a lot of time, as now it automatically lets me know when one of a 100+ blogs gets updated. I also recently added a gallery to make it a bit more fun to browse. Take a look, let me know what you think, and hope it saves you some time.</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 11:01:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13663-site-i-built-to-track-woodworking-blogs-woodspottingcom/</guid>
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		<title>Sharpening Stations</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13646-sharpening-stations/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>I've had it with the whole ordeal...getting everything out, setting everything up, packing it all back up, putting it all away.&nbsp; I'm a procrastinator by nature and I let my metal get way too dull before I sharpen...and the lack of a dedicated station doesn't help at all.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>I know it's been covered before and there's plenty of ideas out there to be found...but let's knock it around again here.&nbsp; I'd love to see pics of your station, or a link to a station you'd like to build.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Keep in mind I have no plumbing in my shop, so don't show me some crazy awesome William Ng deal with a sink and an Asian waterfall paradise.&nbsp; That'll just make me angry and I'll probably start tearing out walls and putting in pipes. <img src='http://www.woodtalkonline.com/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' /></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/836/6jc4.jpg" alt="6jc4.jpg"></span></p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 08:09:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13646-sharpening-stations/</guid>
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		<title>Can anybody tell me</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13662-can-anybody-tell-me/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>WHY, when I have 5 tape measures in the shop I can still spend a couple minutes wondering around trying to find one? &nbsp; Must have spent at least 15 minutes doing that today.</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 04:43:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13662-can-anybody-tell-me/</guid>
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		<title>Tips to avoid tear out, hard maple</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13657-tips-to-avoid-tear-out-hard-maple/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>I am planing some 6/4 hard maple&nbsp;with my lunchbox planer&nbsp;and getting more tear out than I want to deal with.&nbsp;&nbsp; A quick search revealed the following tips:</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>-sharp knives (I just ordered new ones)</p>
<p>-light passes</p>
<p>-wet the board first</p>
<p>-pass at an angle</p>
<p>-watch grain direction</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Any othe tips?&nbsp; Does a wet board actually plane better?&nbsp;</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 02:05:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13657-tips-to-avoid-tear-out-hard-maple/</guid>
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		<title>Thoughts on the Woodworking Show in Atlanta</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13659-thoughts-on-the-woodworking-show-in-atlanta/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I attended the Woodworking Show in Atlanta this past weekend. I was there for all three days. Here are some observations:<br><br>
1. It was a privilege to sit in a couple of sessions with Marc Adams, but...it was disturbing that the classes weren't full - not even close. The Legacy CNC sales demo had more people. Maybe it's just me, but if I knew Marc S, or Michael Fortune, or Chris Schwartz, etc was going to be teaching at a venue like this, I wouldn't miss it. I hope Marc wasn't too discouraged.<br><br>
2. While this show isn't for the pro, beginners, intermediate and even advanced woodworkers can benefit. The teachers of the seminars I attended - Marc Adams, Andy Chidwick, Roland Johnson, Jim Heavey, we're very approachable and sincerely seemed interested in helping me become a better woodworker. I talked to all of them at different times outside of their seminars and they were gracious with their time and generous with their advice. <br><br>
3. The new owner, Bryce, really wants to see the show return to its previous level. He has a great attitude and commitment. I hope he's successful. <br><br>
4. The youth focus was a nice addition. It wasn't well attended but I think it will grow. Getting young people involved and excited in woodworking is imperative for the future of the craft. <br><br>
5. I spent time, and money, with several of the vendors. I know I could save a little money buying online but I can't put my hands on the tools, try them out, ask questions, etc. and, these guys spend a lot of money coming out to the shows so if they don't make sales, they'll quit coming which would be bad for all of us. <br><br>
6. "Made in America" is making a comeback!  This is a trend I hope continues. <br><br>
Hope this wasn't too much rambling, but I really believe it's important for us to support these kind of shows.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Mar 2014 01:16:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13659-thoughts-on-the-woodworking-show-in-atlanta/</guid>
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		<title>Shop Update</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13650-shop-update/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Did a bit of revamping and cleaning in the shop today..&nbsp; There's some major new stuff coming so, thought I'd document and share what it looks like now..</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href='https://imageshack.com/i/mz2doej' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'><span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/827/2doe.jpg" alt="2doe.jpg"></span></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href='https://imageshack.com/i/5b00dhj' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'><span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/191/00dh.jpg" alt="00dh.jpg"></span></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href='https://imageshack.com/i/0w2o5rj' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'><span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/32/2o5r.jpg" alt="2o5r.jpg"></span></a></p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2014 23:35:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13650-shop-update/</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>bowling alley for workbench top - build question</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/11530-bowling-alley-for-workbench-top-build-question/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>I know there are a bunch of bowling alley threads around various forums, but none that I've found has a answer for me. I know you guys will have some great answers.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>I picked up this slab of alley wood that I plan to use for a bench top. I know it's nailed together, not laminated, and that's fine. 50 years of bowling balls banged around on it, so I figure it'll hold up just fine for me. I'm not trimming it down either (at least not yet), so that's not an issue. No plans to make it a Roubo or anything like that, just a big ass general worksurface.&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>anyhow, the bottom of the slab has these 3 angle iron stringers. Originally I was going to remove them to place the slab on the top of a base. But, the underside of all this wood is not planed even. However, the stringers are flat (or so it appears if you try to use them like winding sticks). I don't have a planer, and can only imagine how long it would take to do by hand, even with a power planer. But, if the iron is level, why not use those as the mount?</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>I thinking I might be able to cut some narrow dados for the pieces of angle iron to drop into. Kind of using them like a tenon (see quick sketch). Someone please correct me for using the wrong terms here.&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>I guess the other option is to lay the whole thing on some cross beams and shim to get appropriate fit and level?&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>One way better than the other? or am I going about this all wrong?</p>
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</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2014 22:50:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/11530-bowling-alley-for-workbench-top-build-question/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Stackable boxes!</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13465-stackable-boxes/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I picked up some maple and walnut from Kettle Moraine Hardwoods this morning. It was super busy!!<br />
<br />
These are for a commissioned job. The project calls for ten boxes, five maple and the other walnut. They will be stackable. I haven't 100% decided how they will stack. I think I'll do something like in the attached pic. This may change as I'd like to use plywood for the bottoms. <br />
<br />
Anyway, here is a quick shot of my haul today. I wanted to get more wood, but being so busy I decided I'll go back in a few days for the stuff I want for my stuff.<br />
<br />
<span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src='http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/23/eraqevyn.jpg' alt='Posted Image'  /></span><br />
<br />
<span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src='http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/23/7e3etava.jpg' alt='Posted Image'  /></span>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2014 21:49:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13465-stackable-boxes/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[What is a good 8&#34; grinder?]]></title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13639-what-is-a-good-8-grinder/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<div>&nbsp;</div>
<p>I need a a good 8" grinder to sharpen my turning chisels. &nbsp; Who makes a good grinder at a good price???? &nbsp;Were can I find them???</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Thomas</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2014 20:44:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13639-what-is-a-good-8-grinder/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Crisscross Leg Vise Problem</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13610-crisscross-leg-vise-problem/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Hello Gentlemen,</p>
<p>I am building my own version of the "Crosscross" leg vise.</p>
<p>I have it constructed, an it is in operation, but when the jaws grab,...and I keep turning the screw, the bottom of the leg keeps moving forward. This of course causes an angle at the jaw faces...and I am assuming also reduced clamping pressure.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>In my research this can be caused by tolerance between the screw and nut...tolerance or gaps between legs and grooves, etc....</p>
<p>But I have made sure everything is perfect. (at least as perfect as I can get it)</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>It seems to be violating all logic, and I cannot tell where the movement it coming from.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Has anyone had this same problem with this type of vise, and found a root cause and solution?</p>
<p>I am sure there is more than one cause....but would love to hear of any experience in this particular problem, to help me find the root cause of mine....</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Thanks!!</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2014 20:42:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13610-crisscross-leg-vise-problem/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>making wood crack</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13623-making-wood-crack/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>old wood turns gray and cracks im going to use some vineger to turn my wood grey but i was wondering if there was a chemical that i could use that would allow me to make the wood crack.&nbsp; im making a mask and i want to be able to make the face part of the mask look like old wood. any ideas?</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2014 20:27:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13623-making-wood-crack/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>idiot proof dovetail jig</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13635-idiot-proof-dovetail-jig/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Any recommendations for a relatively idiot proof router dovetail jig.&nbsp; What would you set your dumbest shop apprentice up on?&nbsp; That is why I need.&nbsp; Mostly plan on through dovetails. &nbsp; I know there are quite a few out there and I am the impatient type when it comes to learning something new.&nbsp; Not really sure if there is a difference between them. &nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2014 19:56:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13635-idiot-proof-dovetail-jig/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Inherited from great grandfather - need refurb</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13651-inherited-from-great-grandfather-need-refurb/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>I've gotten a hold of an antique tool box full of tools that belonged to my wife's great grandfather. &nbsp;I'm not sure of the ages of the pieces. &nbsp;Some were additions from her grand father. &nbsp;Posting here for a couple of reasons. &nbsp;First, I think they're cool and wanted to share. &nbsp;Second, I'm thinking of refurbishing as much as I can without harming their integrity and building a nice shadow box to display them. &nbsp;So that brings me to my question. &nbsp;Looking for suggestions on how to best treat the wood (and even metal) parts of these to clean them up and get them looking as good as possible.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>The marking gauge and the double handled 12.5 plane are my favorites. &nbsp;The plane actually has a wood foot on it rather than metal like today's planes. &nbsp;I'm actually considering using the marking gauge, but would also like to display it. &nbsp;Debating that one. &nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>So, back to my question on refurbishing techniques...</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f240/diungerich/Woodworking/IMG_0731_zps582bad81.jpg" alt="IMG_0731_zps582bad81.jpg"></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f240/diungerich/Woodworking/IMG_0728_zps74c10e6f.jpg" alt="IMG_0728_zps74c10e6f.jpg"></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f240/diungerich/Woodworking/IMG_0730_zpsd02ea607.jpg" alt="IMG_0730_zpsd02ea607.jpg"></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f240/diungerich/Woodworking/doublehandleplane_zps8120f649.jpg" alt="doublehandleplane_zps8120f649.jpg"></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f240/diungerich/Woodworking/drills_zpsca284d02.jpg" alt="drills_zpsca284d02.jpg"></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f240/diungerich/Woodworking/scraper_zps82dec16b.jpg" alt="scraper_zps82dec16b.jpg"></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span rel='lightbox'><img class='bbc_img' src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f240/diungerich/Woodworking/planes_zps80afaca9.jpg" alt="planes_zps80afaca9.jpg"></span></p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2014 18:19:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13651-inherited-from-great-grandfather-need-refurb/</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Options for walls and ceiling in new shop</title>
		<link>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13368-options-for-walls-and-ceiling-in-new-shop/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>So building my new shop is getting closer to becoming a reality but still some things to iron out. It will be a 30x40 pole barn and I'm going to insulate it myself. Part of the walls I plan to use slatwall as its much better than pegboard for hanging stuff. I'm looking for ideas on what to do for the rest of the walls?&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>A steel ceiling installed will be around $1500. I don't know if a steel ceiling is a good option for a woodworking shop? I might be a pain for running electrical and lights after installed but I don't know. What about for mounting lights and running dust collection on it? Again, looking for recommendations for ceiling options.&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>If anyone has any good links or resources for building a woodworking shop I would appreciate it.&nbsp;</p>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Mar 2014 18:14:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/13368-options-for-walls-and-ceiling-in-new-shop/</guid>
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