WTO - All Forums (by latest post)

Helical cutter head jointers

Wed, 23 May 2012 11:07:29 +0000

How does the performance of a carbide helical cutter head jointer compare to a jointer with conventional 3 HSS knives?
Some reviews I've seen mention that the helical cutters can leave a scalloped surface that requires more sanding compared to a conventional cutter head but produce less tear-out on highly figured woods. Is this a problem when jointing an edge for
gluing? I am looking to replace an old low end 6 inch jointer with a Powermatic-54 6 inch jointer with either quick-set blades or a carbide helical cutter. Do the carbide cutters actually stay sharp 3-4 times longer as claimed and are they significantly
quieter? The ease of changing blades seems like the biggest advantage.

Thanks.

Can you hand plane plywood?

Wed, 23 May 2012 05:18:18 +0000

The edges I mean. For example if I get rid of my table saw and have to use plywood for something, how do I cut a clean edge? Bandsaw?

Handplanes from Auction

Wed, 23 May 2012 04:27:18 +0000

Hey folks.

I picked this lot of hand planes up today for $100. Any stick out to you guys as ones I should keep & tune up, hang on a wall, or throw in the trash? I probably only want to keep two or three.

I identified the Stanley #5 as a series 20, which according to the aging site was the "beginning of the end". It's the one on the far left.
The next one has no markings.
Next one has handyman on the cap. I'm assuming it's a stanley.
The next one has Fulton on the blade. From what I've read it was Sargent made for Sears.
THe Next one has Stanley Handyman on cap.
The next one is a Sargent #408.
The next has Nor-Craft on cap.
The next has Worth on the Blade, Probably Junk.
Lastly the big wooden jointer has no markings on the body, but has W. Butcher on the blade with the B, Arrow, and Cross hallmarks. From the little I read online they are pretty good steel.

Thanks for any opinions & insight!

found a great buy

Wed, 23 May 2012 04:17:41 +0000

went garage saling and found a couple of planes. one is a old stanley and the othere is a sargent 22 inch plane. (8 dollers)

also came across a large stanley bevil gage #18 its the largest one i have ever seen. (2 dollers)

also picked up some deer antlers that ill end up trying to make pens out off. (2 dollers)

best part is i found a blacksmith that lives 20 min from my house. spent a couple hours talking with him about his shop the forge and anvils he makes and sells. he teaches black smithing classes in the winter and fall. he might do a demonstraition at my school. also talked to him about making some wood carving chisles and possibly swaping some work for some wood turned handles. (sold him a ring holder for 4)

so all in all good day.....can someone help me figure out what type of planes (have no plane exp)they are and what there worth?

iBox just ordered

Wed, 23 May 2012 03:33:49 +0000

I saw the video and always wanted a good box joint jig. Looks very flexible. We'll see if it is worth the $ 170 bucks.

best furniture paints for HVLP?

Wed, 23 May 2012 02:14:08 +0000

So, I've recently done 1 refinish where the customer asked me to paint something white. It was a basic dresser and it turned out okay, but the paint was a pain in the -ahem-! It was too thick even after thinning and reaching a suitable viscocity where it was still causing some spattering. Of course, it was a water based latex.

Is oil based latex paint thinner out of the can? Should I actually be using a different type of paint altogether?

Reason I'm asking is that I have another request to white paint a dresser. This time it's a queen Anne style dresser which appears to be in great condition (shrug).

Thoughts? I have an Earlex 5500 and I was using the 2.0 mm nozzle as suggested by earlex. I also have the 1.5 mm nozzle which I generally use for my water based poly or shellac.

Suggestions for grinding wheel brand

Wed, 23 May 2012 01:45:34 +0000

Ive been reading through the grinding wheel wobble posts.
I've got a grinder (6" wheels w 1/2" arbor) & am in the market to purchase new wheels for sharpening blades & chisels. I plan on using it for removing stock on chipped blades & initial stage sharpening.
I've seen so many bad reviews about the norton wheels, but the reviews were't on a woodworking forum.
Can anyone suggest a good brand based on experience?
Should I get more than one grit?

Vertical Plywood Storage

Wed, 23 May 2012 01:42:04 +0000

I have limited space in my shop (the 3rd bay in a 3-car garage), but it does have 10' ceilings so I thought about making a rack to store sheets of plywood standing upright since it would have a smaller footprint. Has anyone does this or know maybe where I could see some pictures to get a couple ideas of the best way to go about doing this?

baby cot

Wed, 23 May 2012 00:22:57 +0000

hi all, does anyone have any tips of plans for a baby cot. Was thinking of building one as a gift to my sister for the future nephew/niece that's on the way.

thanks

Bandsaw blades

Tue, 22 May 2012 21:26:18 +0000

I'm about to pull the trigger on my first bandsaw. A Grizzly G0513X2 17". I KNOW NOTHING about bandsaws. I've always just used a jigsaw or a bow saw for cutting curves and have avoided resawing as much as possible.

Now it's time to get a bandsaw though. So what do I need to know? What blade brands are the best, where can I order them, etc? The saw uses a 131-1/2" blade. I know Mr Fortune recomends a 1/2", 3tpi, skip tooth, .025 thick as a general purpose blade.

I know nothing about what I need to order for a few good blades. Please point me in the right direction

I guess I need a good general blade and a good resaw blade.

Anti-static blow gun?

Tue, 22 May 2012 20:19:22 +0000

Anyone have experience with Ionix anti static cartridges used to blow off surfaces before finishing? I recently saw advertising for this product. They suggest it for auto and woodworking finish work. I looked for reviews and wanted more input before spending $150 or more.
We use water-bourne finishes in a small custom shop with no spray booth so dust is an issue for us.

Chicken Coop: Elements of Design

Tue, 22 May 2012 20:06:55 +0000

Howdy Folks,

This marks my first post outside of the "Introduce Yourself" Forum. I'm eagerly waiting for confirmation that my rental application has been accepted so I can get cranking in my new place on two acres here in Petaluma with a 1000 Sq Ft freestanding shop!
Among the many projects I hope to sink my teeth into, a home for some poultry is high on the list. I'll be living the single life in a small one bedroom (1880's) house and was hoping for a few (2-4) hens to keep me company. I have raised stock before but always on others land. I wanted to poll this fine collection of minds as to what elements are "key" with regard coop design. Access for cleaning, nesting sites, fox deterrents etc. If any of you have seen plans online that appeal to your eye and would allow for some finer techniques, please send them down the pipeline. I am not married to any design or style so would love for a cohesive concoction of combined perspectives and refined aesthetic, a comprehensive evolution of our shared idea of what makes a coop a coop. We will dream it, I will build it, the chicks will dig it. I appreciate your input.
As the plan evolves I will update here to incorporate any concepts or ideas that are considered integral to a final design.

- Mobility

End Table

Tue, 22 May 2012 17:40:17 +0000

Here is a little end table that I have been working on. The legs are made from ash and the top is a slice of a walnut crotch. I wanted to do a as little as possible to the top because I liked it's shape, and its has some nice figuring, and I like the knot. The legs have some knots too.

I would love to hear what you think of it, good and bad.

This picture is in different light. I suck at taking pictures.

Cutting Curves in Traditional Japanese Woodwork

Tue, 22 May 2012 15:03:50 +0000

Thinking about making a pair of the short traditional saw beams that Toshio Odate mentions in his book. I have a question about the design. I noticed that he cut a couple of curves in the bases on the ones he shows. How would this have been done in traditional Japanese woodworking?

Resaw advice

Tue, 22 May 2012 14:28:11 +0000

If I want to add curly maple resawn veneer to a substrate does it need to be applied to both sides like normall veneer?
If so what can I use on the back side so I don't have to waste my curly maple?

Planing Question

Tue, 22 May 2012 13:56:09 +0000

Hey all,

Pardon my newbeeness but I have a question about planing wood. I do not have a large shop and can not afford a planer. Can the disk sander on my shop smith be used for the same purpose? I understand the limitations of wood size, but I am looking to build the keepsake box Marc did in one of his videos and most of the wood I am looking at is going to need some love before I build.

Thanks

Barrett

CLR it!

Tue, 22 May 2012 12:07:56 +0000

CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) product you see on tv. Click here if you don't know what I am talking about.

My question, would this be a good product to use on your cast iron tops to remove rust?

Tool Cabinet

Tue, 22 May 2012 03:47:37 +0000

I am starting a tool cabinet in the near future. I am still in the design stage and would like some input. The cabinet will have 3 vertical "drawers" around 60" tall. This is where I want to store clamps squares and other long tools. Each will be supporting around 50-100 pounds. For support I was thinking 4 drawer slides 2 top and 2 bottom. This will be a little pricey being that there will be 3 of these drawers. Is there another way to do this or should I stick with this design.

I do not have any plans drawn yet, I can post a rough sketch up if that will be a help.

Thanks

Barrett

Salutations from Petaluma

Tue, 22 May 2012 02:47:21 +0000

Hey folks,
I'm very eager to get into some wood. I've never spent time in a shop working on projects but will soon be relocating to a new house with ample room for a shop and I am excited. I believe I am in a really fortunate location with lots of great teachers and mentors not too far away. Anyhow, thanks for reading and I really look forward to learning and practicing this craft as much as I can.

Thanks,

Sean

In Trouble

Tue, 22 May 2012 01:38:09 +0000

Took a new job a few months back and I travel to Toronto on a pretty regular basis. Well this trip I booked my hotel and what do I see? Lee Valley a few blocks away. Might have to check my bags on the way back

Do they have any closeouts or store discounts? Maybe I should have brought an extra bag.

New here - almost there!

Tue, 22 May 2012 01:22:17 +0000

We have been working since January on my son's room. I know it seems like it is taking forever, but we have a 1 1/2 year old daughter and 3 1/2 year old son. So basically weekend and late night warriors. The project is finishing an upstairs crawl space and turning it into a play area. We finished my daughters crawl space in December and have been really pleased with the added space.

With my son's room we decided to go a little rustic looking, and actually used HT Oak pallet wood as trim and backing boards. Some of the oak is a cherry oak and some is a lighter golden oak. We then found a nice chuck of solid Mahogany to use as table tops for different play stations throughout his room.

The plan was to just use a paint on poly on all the oak pallet trim. With the Mahogany...I don't really know what way to go. Gathering some information, I have kind of developed a game plan. We plan to do some testing on a scrap piece of Mahogany tonight. Heres the plan...

First sand surface through 220. I have never filled pores before, so I found the video on the Wood Whisper site that showed how to use Danish Oil and sandpaper to fill the pores. So we plan to use cherry danish oil, sand and then seal with a few coats of poly.

I want shine, just not a thick glass type shine. That would throw off the whole rustic theme if it was too nice:) Does it sound like I am on the right track with this? Or is the pore filling even necessary?

Finishing Saddlebags

Tue, 22 May 2012 01:11:39 +0000

I may have totally lost it now...while riding over the weekend I got the great idea to build a set of saddlebags for my '95 HD Dyna Wide Glide. I have a leather set (20"L x 10.5"T x 6.5"D) but they are small so I plan to build something more substantial (~ 22"L x 15"T x 9"D). Before I even start drawing anything, I already feel like the finish for this project could make it or break it. My initial thought is to finish the project as if I had built a boat, ie epoxy & fiberglass. Does anyone have any thoughts? My biggest concern is that 1 of these bags will be "hung" over the muffler/tailpipe. I'm a worried about the effects of heat on the epoxy finish and any subsequent weakening of the finish. How will an epoxy finish withstand rocks flying at 80mph?

Feel free to encourage the crazy...

My first furniture project plans

Mon, 21 May 2012 23:41:26 +0000

So i started my endtables with an A&C feel and wanted more G&G so i tried to work some elements into it. This will all be made from QSWO which i already purchased. Here are the plans that i have drawn up, up to this point. Please feel free to have a look at them and comment, critique ect. The more advice or thought i can put into it the better. Thanks Everyone

Partly octagonal post

Mon, 21 May 2012 23:01:06 +0000

Designer wants to add just a bit of decorative flair to the upper section of some posts for a deck. How would you go about making part of a pressure-treated 4x4 post octagonal?

Obviously, there's a number of ways to skin this cat. The easiest one (chamfer bit in a router) won't fly because the chamfer is bigger than my biggest chamfer bit. What's jumped to mind so far.

Option 1 - Jig saw, tilted to 45 degrees. No jigs to make, requires only good layout lines and careful sawing to said lines. Would likely be followed up by something (belt sander, block plane, whatever) to get the surface clean, as well as hand sawing and chisels to get into the ends. These may yet get lamb's tongues where the chamfers stop, so I may well be using hand saws and chisels anyway.
Option 2 - Table saw. Add a cradle to my crosscut sled and slide the post back and forth as I advance the sled into the blade. Would leave a much cleaner surface than option 1 but requires some building as well as a lot of back and forth movement with big timbers.
Option 2a - Same technique but with the post cradled stationary at a 45 and a set of rails to pass a circular saw back and forth over the areas to be removed. Keeps the heavy timber stationary and would still leave the same clean cut, but would take a little more build time.
Option 3 - Router. Rails, cradle and a platform for a plunge router.

I have to make six of these (i.e. 24 chamfers). That feels like it's well into the territory where the desire for speed and repeatabilty cry "build a jig!". But I can't help thinking I'm missing something obviously faster, safer, easier, or all of the above. What say ye?

festool ts-55

Mon, 21 May 2012 20:31:14 +0000

Does this tool really replace a sliding table for a TS? I want to get either a sliding table or the festool.

I do very little assembly work outside the shop, so having the saw stationary is a non-issue for me.

I was also considering the DeWalt track saw, but see it carries almost the same price tag as the Festool.

Opinions?