Plywood vs MDF for shop jigs


willieloew

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Hi. I'm currently living in Argentina, where materials aren't as readily available as in the States. I notice that most videos showing construction of shop jigs recommend 1/2 inch plywood. It is easier in Argentina to get 1/2 inch (or thicker) MDF. You guys think it is OK to use MDF rather than plywood for jigs? Is 1/2 inch MDF sufficient thickness for, say, a table saw sled? Thanks.

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I would say it depends on what the jig is for but, typically yes.  It's not "optimal" but, it will work. 

 

For the table saw sled, I think the bulk of it could be MDF but, the runners should be something much harder and the back push bar should be something more substantial.  As for thickness consideration, I installed T track in mine so, 3/4 was needed.

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A lot of my jigs are made from MDF.  The benefit is it is usually completely flat.  I will note, that my table saw sled is not MDF, as I think it would be to heavy for it.  In the US MDF is inexpensive, and is very easy to work with.  It doesn't take screws real well, so depending on the needs, it may be best to glue and screw.

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I dont see any issue using MDF as long as you use some common sense. I had a coping sled made from mdf that lasted 15 + years made it through a shop fire and being hosed by fire department. I used it up until last week when I finally dropped  it and the toggle clamp ripped out. Finishing with shellac, poly or wax goes a long ways.

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1/2" would be ok for a table saw sled in MDF. For jigs I normally would go at least 3/4" thick in either ply or preferably MDF. In fact some of mine are made from 1" thick MDF for stability and less risk of distortion when using clamps etc.

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I'm still using some Baltic Birch jigs I made in the early '90s.  Once I have one that I know I'll keep long term, I coat the working edges with epoxy thinned with Xylene so it penetrates some.  Then that edge is sanded back down to proper size.  The epoxy makes it some harder, and more wear resistant.  I've even bought cheap plastic jigs to make better jigs with, for things like door strikes, and lock parts. 

 

I've made some out of MDF if I knew they were a once off, like for mortising handrails into porch posts that I knew were going to shrink.  I wouldn't expect the MDF to last long term.

 

Woodcraft currently has 1/2" x 12 x 12 on sale for $1.99   3/4" is 6.29,   It shouldn't cost much to ship those sizes.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2004113/7914/baltic-birch-plywood-12-mm12-x-12-x-12.aspx

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All my jigs are MDF (1/2 or 3/4).  It's just too expensive to get truly flat plywood in my area.  (I suspect everywhere, unless you are a cabinet shop and buy in bulk)

 

MDF is cheap, flat, and reliable.  It makes a heck of a mess to saw though, so be sure you have your DC and a mask on.  

 

If you have big box stores, find a panel or two that someone has dropped (mushroomed corners) and ask for a discount.  They simply won't be able to sell them without the discount, so it's a win win.  Home Depot by me has sold 3/4" MDF sheets (8'x4') for <$10.  If you have a good squared up saw, you can just rip off the damage and save some $$.

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  • 1 month later...

I like MDO (MDO, also known as Signboard, is an exterior-grade plywood with a high-quality paper face saturated with phenolic resin solids).  I typically lay out a 4x8 sheet, seal it and either paint it or apply clear urethane on both sides.  Then it is ready stock for making jigs.

 

Jim

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I use MDF for quick limited use jigs. If a jig will be used for production runs or other heavy use I use Baltic birch scraps. I make a lot of drawers from Baltic and save the strips and leftover chunks just for jig making. Exactly square cuts, glue and some micro-pin nails can make a quick long lasting jig out of Baltic.

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I have a small circular saw cross-cut jig I built using MDF.  It's heavy enough I don't need to use more than light pressure to clamp.  (Harbor Freight clamps have never failed me on this jig.)  But this same jig doesn't hold up for a cut longer than 12 inches.  I don't know why, it just didn't.

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I don't know why length would have an effect if the base is wide enough not to flex.  I have one for trimming the bottom of doors made out of nothing more than 1/4" Birch plywood and a yellow pine board that I know I've used since 1991.  This picture shows another eight foot one, not quite as old, but only made out of 1/4" luan, and MDF, that works just fine.  This is a finish cut that an inlaid replacement floor board section will meet up to.  A poor man's version of the Festool tracksaw, but it's never failed me.

 

http://www.historic-house-restoration.com/images/ElamsHouse_Oct._2012_025.JPG

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I use MDF for quick limited use jigs. If a jig will be used for production runs or other heavy use I use Baltic birch scraps. I make a lot of drawers from Baltic and save the strips and leftover chunks just for jig making. Exactly square cuts, glue and some micro-pin nails can make a quick long lasting jig out of Baltic.

I think Steve makes an important point here.  For the professional who puts a lot of use into a jig, and doesn't want or need to waste time making them repeatedly, you need to use baltic birch or some other more durable material.

 

However, for the weekend warriors (even the very serious ones!), MDF is an excellent material to make jigs out of.  I have several jigs and projects I used MDF for and they have worked out fine.

 

Just think about usage when you make your jigs.  As Particle Board points out, MDF will last if you treat it right.

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