Super Dust Deputy: Initial Review

[toddclippinger]

I recently converted my single stage dust collector into a 2-stage system using the Super Dust Deputy by Oneida. 

In this video I share my initial impressions and performance of the system.

I do not cover all the modifications, but you will see the overall setup and I give a basic price breakdown of the cost. I will cover the specifics of my conversion in the future. 

If you have been thinking of getting a Super Dust Deputy to convert your single stage DC into a 2-stage system, but are on a budget, you might find this helpful. 

Your friend in the shop -  

Todd A. Clippinger

Share the Love - Share the Knowledge

[Tom King]

Thanks a lot for the video!!  I like the way you have the Brute trash can hooked up.  I've been thinking about doing this when I have some spare time.  Right now I'm using a three horse four bag system, but emptying the bags always makes a mess to have to clean up.  What's your opinion on using it with a 3hp unit?  I looked at the Clearvues for one a little larger, but they're a lot more money.

 

For easy peel duct tape, I use a 3M tape sold in the paint department of Home Depot.  I don't remember exactly what it's called, but it's a ductape that comes in several colors and claims to have a 3 month clean release when used outside.  I've found it will release clean inside over a lot longer period than that. I use it for masking off woodwork when doing plastering because blue masking tape is not strong enough.  It's probably not as strong as regular ductape, but still plenty strong for those uses.  I couldn't find it online.  It has a design printed on the cover sort of like diamond plate tread.

[toddclippinger]

Tom - the Brute trashcan is holding up to my 2 hp motor, but I would guess that your bigger motor and increased CFM would crush it. You might have to look at getting a more sturdy barrel. One place to check is with furniture refinishing places. The have the really durable blue plastic barrels and usually give them away for free since they cannot throw them in the landfill. 

 

Even as a business, I am on a budget just like anybody else. The reality is that I would love to have a 5 or 7 hp big cyclone DC unit outside the shop. But that is out of my budget and that is why I got the Super Dust Deputy. I posted the costs so that other guys looking to convert would have a realistic idea of what it might cost to do so.

 

There is both a metal and a plastic version Super Dust Deputy. I bought the plastic version since it was $70 cheaper than the metal one. They are rated for use on DC motors up to 3 hp. The $70 I saved went into the other materials. 

 

For the duct tape, I was buying the 3 pack at Costco for $8. It had just the right amount of stick and release for taping the bottom plastic bags on. I will admit that it is not considered a clean release. The plaster and EIFS guys on my job sites always use a red duct tape because of it's stick & release properties.  

[Tom King]

I've used that red duct tape that sticks to masonry, but the tape I'm talking about is a bit different and works better on metal, wood, and plastic. It's thinner than the red tape, so there is a lot more on the roll. I use it a lot, but a roll still lasts a long time.  I'll see if I can get more information on it the next time I'm in Home Depot.  I have some in the tape box, but I'm sure I've thrown the label away.

 

I have some of those blue barrels, but having one that the lid snaps on is a good thing.  I believe there are various grades of those Brute trashcans, so I'll check more into that.

 

Thanks again.

[toddclippinger]

Tom - Thanks for the heads-up on the tape. I definitely stop at Home Depot quite a bit as a contractor, I will check out the tape and see if they have it. 

[Tom King]

I checked the tape toolbox today, and did have an unopened roll.  It's Scotch instead of 3M (I think maybe still owned by 3M).  The  No Residue version of these:

 

http://toolmonger.com/2010/03/04/scotch-tough-duct-tapes/

 

It's been in the tape toolbox for a couple of years, including some rolls that have been used off of, and it all still works like it just came off the shelf.  I'm sure I did get it in the paint department of Home Depot.  When we make a temporary setup with metal ducting for the DC, it's put together with this, and it comes off clean after a year.

 

I've used it to mask off 200 year old woodwork so water or plaster doesn't get on it from plastering walls. Blue masking tape isn't strong enough for that application.  It has never done anything but come off clean. 

 

I don't have any idea what it costs per roll.  I'm sure it's more than 3 rolls for 8 bucks, but with the way it comes off when you want it to,

it's well worth whatever the premium price is.

 

They came out with the outdoor painters version first, and that worked fine too, although I never used it much outside. 

 

One of the reviews says it's like Gaffers tape, but it's not.  I use some of that for other things.

[Tom King]

I remembered there were different versions of the Brute trash can, but they are different sizes.  I think I'll see if I can find a 43 gallon yellow one that says USDA Condemned on it.

 

http://www.rubbermaidcommercialproducts.com/c34/c42/c241/2643-46-BRUTE-Container-without-Lid-with-USDA-Condemned-Black-Imprint-English-and-Spanish-4-Pack-p484.html

[toddclippinger]

Holy crap that can is $280!

[toddclippinger]

Thanks for the link on the tape. Now that I popped over to look at it, I have seen that tape in the stores before. I will keep an eye out for it. 

[Tom King]

Holy crap that can is $280!

I think that was for 4 directly from the manufacturer.  I should be able to find a single one somewhere for less than full retail.

[krtwood]

You can't be getting increased CFM at the tool with all other things being equal.  A cyclone is a pretty substantial static pressure so you're going to get less CFM at the tool.  But dirty filters are perhaps an even bigger static pressure so while you should definitely start with less CFM compared to without it, but the filters clean, in a prolonged sanding operation normally your CFMs would drop.  Whether you end up up or down on average is an interesting question.

 

I'm not sure why you need to duct tape the plastic bags on, mine just uses the same strap clamp you use on a filter bag for it.  But duct taping it on would be faster than wrestling with the clamp anyway.  One of my least favorite activities.

[toddclippinger]

Krtwood you definitely have a good point. But in the end, I have noticeably more air flow at the machines than ever before. 

 

I have to tape the bag on to seal it. the clamps do not stop the dust from blowing past the plastic bag. It simply did not work. 

[toddclippinger]

You can't be getting increased CFM at the tool with all other things being equal.  A cyclone is a pretty substantial static pressure so you're going to get less CFM at the tool.  But dirty filters are perhaps an even bigger static pressure so while you should definitely start with less CFM compared to without it, but the filters clean, in a prolonged sanding operation normally your CFMs would drop.  Whether you end up up or down on average is an interesting question.

 

I'm not sure why you need to duct tape the plastic bags on, mine just uses the same strap clamp you use on a filter bag for it.  But duct taping it on would be faster than wrestling with the clamp anyway.  One of my least favorite activities.

(I am going to try and load photos in this response.)

 

Besides the cyclone, which I understand adds static pressure, I made other changes too. The fan was mounted on the rolling base and had the long sweep of 5" flex duct, I always felt this was a huge drag on the system so I hung it on the wall of the new mobile cart and now it blows straight into the final dust chamber. 

 

Another change I made was to replace some of the 4" flex line with left over PVC to reduce more drag. 

 

In the end, all things considered, I definitely have more air flow at the machines. While I did not put a manometer on the system for hard numbers, the results in performance are clearly improved on the user end. 

 

 

I am having trouble figuring out how to load the photos.

 

 

[toddclippinger]

Before conversion with cyclone.

 

 

 

 

DSCN0225 by toddclippinger, on Flickr

 

DSCN0226 by toddclippinger, on Flickr

[toddclippinger]

Notice the hard pipe that replaced the flex by the sander and how short the run from the sander is to the cyclone. 

 

 

IMG_4998 by toddclippinger, on Flickr

 

I think this makes a big difference, the fan blows straight into the final dust chamber. 

 

IMG_5002 by toddclippinger, on Flickr

[krtwood]

That makes more sense.  Is that a 5" to 4" reducer coming out of the dust deputy?  You'd get a little better result if you could get the 5" directly into a wye for the two 4" runs to the sander, but eh, a couple of 5" wyes and a 5" blast gate is a fair bit of money for a probably pretty small improvement.

[wilburpan]

I have to tape the bag on to seal it. the clamps do not stop the dust from blowing past the plastic bag. It simply did not work. 

 

I had the same issue with my single stage dust collector (JDS 1.5 HP with a canister, if anyone is curious). I solved this by getting some thick and wide weatherstripping tape, and attaching it around the outside of the center metal section underneath where the band clamp would seat. The plastic bag sits over the weatherstripping, and then the clamp goes over both. That took care of any leaks from the lower bag.

 

The duct tape obviously works as well, but I bet I have a heck of an easier time removing/replacing my bag than you do.

[toddclippinger]

I did one other tweak on the duct work which was to add an extra adjustable fitting between the cyclone and the fan. Instead of having two 90° corners, the air flows through a 90° and two 45's forming a longer & hopefully smoother curve. 

 

 

DSCN0357 by toddclippinger, on Flickr

[toddclippinger]

I had the same issue with my single stage dust collector (JDS 1.5 HP with a canister, if anyone is curious). I solved this by getting some thick and wide weatherstripping tape, and attaching it around the outside of the center metal section underneath where the band clamp would seat. The plastic bag sits over the weatherstripping, and then the clamp goes over both. That took care of any leaks from the lower bag.

 

The duct tape obviously works as well, but I bet I have a heck of an easier time removing/replacing my bag than you do.

Sheer genius with the weather stripping. I had never thought of that. 

 

Yes, I can say without a doubt that removing and replacing the bag is much easier for you than me.

[Tom King]

I don't know where you guys buy ductwork pieces from, but I've been getting them from a HVAC supplier called Airtec.  To make a tie-in to a Grizzly planer, I bought a 2-1/2x12 6" side entry boot, a 6" elbow, and a 2' length of 6" metal duct for $11.54 including tax.  The boot fit the planer outlet perfectly.  I don't use this machine much, so we just wheel it over to the 3hp DC and put it on a short run solo to the DC.  What chips that got flung out the front would hover in mid-air a split second and get sucked back in.

 

The Woodtek cloth bags are held on by a cam over to lock clamp that works quickly, and seals fine.  It just always dumps some sawdust from simply taking the bag off.  I like this setup with the trash can for ease of emptying.

[toddclippinger]

That makes more sense.  Is that a 5" to 4" reducer coming out of the dust deputy?  You'd get a little better result if you could get the 5" directly into a wye for the two 4" runs to the sander, but eh, a couple of 5" wyes and a 5" blast gate is a fair bit of money for a probably pretty small improvement.

Yes the line reduces from 5" to 4" right off the cyclone. I had been looking at going to a 5" line but it was going to be another $500 and I needed to get this conversion done in one weekend and get it going. With the 5" opening into the cyclone and the improved performance of the system overall, it certainly is more tempting to spend the money and go to a 5" duct. But that also means I would tear up the floor and put it underneath. That is more work and I am not ready to do that at this time. I think that if I went 5" for the overall main trunk I would see another jump in performance. But I also have a long-term goal of getting a 5 or 7.5 hp system that would be outside the shop in another room, so there is a limit to what I will be doing with this system.

[toddclippinger]

I don't know where you guys buy ductwork pieces from, but I've been getting them from a HVAC supplier called Airtec.  To make a tie-in to a Grizzly planer, I bought a 2-1/2x12 6" side entry boot, a 6" elbow, and a 2' length of 6" metal duct for $11.54 including tax.  The boot fit the planer outlet perfectly.  I don't use this machine much, so we just wheel it over to the 3hp DC and put it on a short run solo to the DC.  What chips that got flung out the front would hover in mid-air a split second and get sucked back in.

 

The Woodtek cloth bags are held on by a cam over to lock clamp that works quickly, and seals fine.  It just always dumps some sawdust from simply taking the bag off.  I like this setup with the trash can for ease of emptying.

Tom - since my dust collector only has a 2hp motor, I knew that common residential grade ductwork would be sufficient. If I had a bigger system such as a 5hp, I would have to look at something more substantial. This is based on the experience of friends that have had their light weight ductwork collapse under such a powerful motor.  I just bought the ductwork at Lowe's and it is fairly inexpensive.