Recommended tools: clarifications requested

[chexxchexx]

Hello.

 

I'm late to the party, but very much looking forward to building this workbench with my son. I'm a woodworking newbie, but rather handy so I expect I'll be able to make this work (surely with some hiccups along the way, though). Anyway, I've gone on a shopping spree of late and have a bunch of specific questions I feel ill-equipped to solve on my own:

1. Straight router bits (to be used in Festool OF2200)
   1. Diameter - It appears that I need 3/8" and 3/4" straight bits. Is this correct? It's not explicitly clear from the project summary page.
      1. Assuming that's correct, are both really required? Could the 3/8" handle the tasks for the 3/4", just less efficiently?
   2. Shank - Given that I'll be using the 2200, is it correct to assume I should stick with 1/2" for the shank?
   3. Cutting length - Is there a minimum required or maximum usable cutting length? If not, I'd prefer to go with whatever is most versatile even if it's more expensive.
   4. Overall length - Is there a minimum required or maximum usable overall length? If not, I'd prefer to go with whatever is most versatile even if it's more expensive.
2. Pattern router bits (to be used in Festool OF2200)
   1. ​Diameter - Is there an ideal diameter?
   2. Shank - 1/2"?
   3. Cutting length - Based on Marc's commentary, it seems as if 1 1/4" cutting length would be ideal. Agreed?
   4. Overall length - Is there a minimum required or maximum usable overall length?
   5. Bearing - Seems this would be looking for the bearing to be at the top. Any other necessary considerations?
3. Domino joiner - I plan to purchase this at some point, but would really prefer to hold-off if you think I could make dowels work nearly as well for the glue-ups. Thoughts?
4. Auger bit - Is Irwin's SpeedBor Max sufficient?
5. Drills and Taps - Is there any need for these parts now that Benchcrafted only offers the Glide Crisscross?
6. Hand planes - I have a low-angle jack plane. Should I pick-up a No. 7 jointer plane to make flattening the top slabs more accurate or will the No. 62 suffice?

I prefer to buy once so, assuming I'm likely to use these parts/items in future projects, please don't hesitate to recommend high-quality pieces.

 

Identifying which pieces I need has proven to be very time consuming and frustrating so I'd be most appreciative if you folks could help me out. Hopefully the clarifications will make it back to the project summary page and save the next newbie the same confusion.

 

Thanks!

[..Kev]

As I don't own this project, I don't have any specific answers to most of your questions.  However, from my experience, if you go ahead and watch Marc's videos ahead of time, most of your questions should be answered.  I have yet to see any of the projects "require" the specialty tools.

[patriot]

Welcome to the forum!

 

I totally agree with TIODS that watching the videos will answer all of your questions.  The Roubo was my first guild build and my first major project.  I watched some parts multiple (like 5-6) times and took extensive notes.    I think there is a place in the videos (dog hole strip?) where Marc uses a bearing guided bit only to realize a longer cutter would be better than what he started with.  That may be due to the thickness of his jig though.  Either way, it was an easy fix by making a subsequent pass at a greater depth.  Since I was buying bits just for this project, I made sure that I bought bits that would be the most useful and would require the least amount of work/effort/chance.

 

Aside from watching the videos, I have some specific responses to a few of your questions:

• Your point on diameter is valid.  However, if you have to make a 3/8” cut and a ¾” cut, would you prefer making a single cut each time?  Or, do you want to make a cut, adjust your guide and make a second cut?  If you're ok with the adjustment, I would just buy one.  In keeping with my less risk/chance theme, I went with separate sizes where appropriate.  
• When given the choice between ¼” shank and ½ shank, I always go for ½” since it is more substantial.  Especially given the fact that you have the OF2200.
• Like Marc, I made extensive use of my spiral up cut bit.  I used the Whiteside Spiral Up Cut (RU5150) ½” shank, ½” cutting diameter, 1 ½” cutting length, 3 ½” overall length.
• The only bearing bit I remember using on the build had the bearing at the top.
• As far as the domino goes, as long as you have some way to prevent the boards from slipping by each other during the glue up (i.e. dowels, biscuits, etc.) you should be fine.  I did 4 smaller glue ups to create sub-assemblies for the top which I later glued together.
• I can’t comment on the Irwin SpeedBor Max auger bit, but it seems like just about any of them should work.  I will say that (thanks to Matt Vanderlist by way of WTO), I used a ¾” router bit to start ALL of my holdfast holes.  I mounted my router to a large board I could clamp securely to the bench top.  After removing any possibility of the router “walking” on me it left me with a handful of straightforward/trivial plunge cuts.  After starting the pilot hole with the router, I finished up the holes with an auger bit.  I followed Marc's procedure of drilling from both sides to prevent blowing out the bottom of the hole.
• I bought a #7 plane to work on the top.  While I had some fun, broke a sweat and hit muscle failure a few times I decided to flatten the top by router in the end.  The process Marc outlines is INSANELY simple in execution. I was concerned going into it, but after the 3^rd pass with the router cradle I realized it was going to be cake – which it was.  Cake is good.    If I were going to just use planes I know I could do it with a jack plane, but I would want a #7.  I will say that the router bit I used cost considerably less than the #7 I bought.  While I’ve used the #7 for several other projects since then, I haven’t had the need to use the monster bit again.  If I have to re-flatten the bench, I will use the router.
• I installed the Crisscross and the taps are essential.  You still have to secure the bracket to the leg and chop.  You also have to secure a few parts of the vise and the wagon vise with screws as well.  Double check ALL of your hole/tap sizes prior to committing them or you may have to patch an over-sized hole.  In other words, make sure your tap corresponds to the size of the screw in the kit regardless of any instructions you may have - and confirm the fit in scrap first.

I made a few modifications to the bench (e.g. solid top, endcaps on both ends and the crisscross).  I can't imagine building the bench as my first project without the videos as a guide.

 

Good luck with the build!

[chexxchexx]

As I don't own this project, I don't have any specific answers to most of your questions.  However, from my experience, if you go ahead and watch Marc's videos ahead of time, most of your questions should be answered.  I have yet to see any of the projects "require" the specialty tools.

 

 

Prior to writing this post, I'd watched all videos up to The Leg Vise Pt 1. I hear you that one could watch and take notes, but it would be significantly easier if the specifics were just posted on the Project Summary page. This is, after all, a project with little room for error and there are more than ten hours of video to go through.

[chexxchexx]

Patriot,

 

Thank you very much for your thorough response.

 

I've purchased the Eagle America spiral bit Marc recommended so I'm good there. Still a bit uncertain about the bit lengths for the straight and pattern bits, but it sounds as if it's not especially critical.

 

Purchasing the 3/8" and 3/4" straight bits is the way I'll go.

 

Thrilled to hear I can get by without the domino joiner.

 

Regarding the auger bit, that's a great suggestion. I guess I'll get to press that 3/4" straight bit into use in that application, as well.

 

Though I'd love to do the planing by hand, my time is just too valuable, so I'll likely go the router flattening route, as well...especially if it's as much of a time-saver as you've described. It'll be nice to hold-off on the No. 7 for a bit longer given the considerable expense of this project for someone who has to purchase most everything from a (quality) tools and materials standpoint. If I don't get this done, my wife will surely never, ever let me live it down. Fortunately, I have no intention of abandoning this build.

 

Immediately following submitting my post, I watched the leg vise videos and can now see that I need the taps. Looks kind of cool.

 

Thanks again!