Ideas for solutions for edge jointing boards 8' L x 12" w x 2" thick cypress

[ElderWood]

As my heading states, I'm looking for any ideas / solutions for edge jointing 8' x 12" x 1 3/4" thick. Problem is I don't have a jointer that could handle this as I only have a sm. bench jointer, and no funds nor space in my shop for a full sized jointer, I plan on glueing up 2 boards to make 24" width. The lumber is rough sawn, I've planed both faces, I've had the idea of either making a po' mans track saw or make some sort of jig for my table saw to true up 1 edge. But that's all the ideas I have. Any thoughts, suggestions, ideas to any or all of you on this forum, thanks in advance for sharing. -Robert

[Beechwood Chip]

Clamp a straight edge to the board and use it to guide a router.  8' is pretty long, so make sure that your straight edge won't bend or shift.  Gluing some sandpaper to the bottom of the straight edge can help keep it from sliding.

 

I'd make a "po' mans track saw" guide, but use one side for a circular saw and the other for a router with a 1/2" straight bit.  I think the router will give a cleaner edge than a circular saw.

[wdwerker]

I did a 12 ft heart pine top last year with a skilsaw & straight edge and then a router to get a clean glue joint. Careful set up and only shaving tiny amounts with the router until it fit perfect.

[Bob Rozaieski]

Jointer plane. This is one of those situations where a hand tool is way more efficient than any crazy jigged up power tool solution. Edge jointing is fast and easy and will not tire you out like face planing can. Trying to bring a large, heavy board like this to a stationary piece of machinery is an invitation for frustration and a potential accident. Home shop machines are simply not designed to handle stock this large and heavy safely. With the hand plane, you secure the large, unwieldy board and bring the agile lightweight tool to it. A jointer plane will have those edges jointed and the boards in the clamps in less than 15 minutes.

If you don't have a Jack plane or jointer plane, my second recommendation would be a long straightedge and flush trim bit in a router. But if you go this route, I'd snap a line first to make sure the straightedge doesn't bow over the length. Eight feet is a long span. You will also likely have to make multiple passes to trim the whole 1-1/2" thickness. It will be much slower than the hand plane so if you have the plane, I'd recommend using it.

[Tom King]

There are any number of ways to do it. One side of my Po'Boy's fits a 7518 with a 3/4" bit. It will make quick work of getting it ready to finish with a No.8 plane regardless of the amount of bow. We handle boards that size and larger on a jointer, but I have a couple of really strong, good helpers.

The cheapest way would be to carry them to someone who has a jointer they can handle them on. I'd charge ten bucks if anything, depending on how much of our time was wasted standing around talking, and if the wood was clean enough not to dull cutters. Extra time and cutter sharpening would cost a lot more than ten bucks.

[Tom Crawford]

Elderwood,

Where are you located? Perhaps there is a member near you that has the tools to help you out. 

[Guest]

pocket screws!

just kidding. don't hit me.

[wdwerker]

Fifty lashes for even joking about such a use! <grin>

I added deep reach clamps along the length of my 12 ft aluminum straightedge to keep it from bowing. I checked the setup across each seam with another section of straightedge. In places the saw just barely cleared the clamps.

[Bombarde16]

+1 hand tools

 

It takes only moments to get a rough edge straight enough to go against a table saw fence.  If you don't have a long plane, use a jack and remember to sight down the board to check your progress.  Even if your efforts aren't perfect at this stage, when you bring it to the saw and reference against the long fence, it will even things out such that the resulting cut on the far side of the board is good enough for glue.

[Trip]

==> I don't have a jointer that could handle this

 

Contact you local cabinet shop, hardwood dealer, etc.  Build some relationships with your local community of wood workers...  Around here we have a full-service gun smith (from which I occasionally visit for machining favors) and a high-end cabinet shop with a stroke sander (and the skill to use it)...  The key is to not be in a hurry...  I just call and ask if I could stop by when they are not busy --- sometimes I have to wait for a week... But it's worth it.

 

Also, you local hardwood emporium would probably joint it for you for a few bucks...

[dwacker]

I would check the forum or local wood working stores for a local guy that might be willing to do it for you you. Its a very quick and easy job on the right machine. If you were near me I'd be happy to do it for you.

The still need to be squared to the face and most likely face jointed.