imcmahon Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 I'm sure I'm not the only one to gaze lovingly at the benchcrafted vise hardware package, but be just a bit unsure about whether or not to spend the money. I'm working on the top of my guild Roubo build, and agonizing over that particular purchase decision. I'm doing this very much on a budget, for instance, using big-box SYP lumber instead of the maple I'd like to have. DIY is a sickness that runs deep in my veins, and so the more I looked at the benchcrafted vise hardware, the more I started to think that I could build my own for a fraction of the price. I've mostly reverse engineered it from the photos on their website and the dimensions in the sketchup drawing, and tonight I started cutting metal. The handwheel pictured above is a rough cast-iron unfinished wheel from McMaster, but they also carry machined polished wheels with handles. However, they're closer to $65, and the unfinished wheel was $13, so I figure the cheaper one would work as a proof of concept If this all works out, I'll replace it with a nicer wheel. The toughest part is going to be the acme nut. It'll need to be single pointed on the lathe. They sell acme taps, but they're $250 in this size, and a tap of this size is going to require a LOT of force to run. I decided to downsize the acme screw to 1"-5tpi rather than benchcrafted's 1-1/4"-4tpi screw. I did this for a couple of reasons. One is price: The 1" screw is 25% cheaper than the 1-1/4". The other is the capacity of my tools; I can hold a 1" screw in a 5C collet and spin the bearing journal down on my surface grinder, but 1.25" is too big for 5C collets. I don't think the screw size change is going to radically affect the holding power of the vise. I'll keep everyone apprised of my progress -Ian 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 That's awesome Ian! I look forward to seeing the progress! As I haven't built a bench yet, we might have to chat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMarshall Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 I'll be very interested in seeing what you come up with. I have no metal working skills but I was able to find 1"-4 tpi acme screws and nuts online pretty cheap. I think a 36" long screw was about $30, and the nuts were under $10 each. The site was www.surpluscenter.com. I made a leg vise and had enough rod left to make a "Moxon" vise also. The 1" screws are plenty strong, no worries there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imcmahon Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Good stuff, Aaron! I might order some nuts from surpluscenter.com if my singlepointing doesn't go well. My only complaint is that it appears all their nuts are right-hand, and the tail vise really needs to be left hand to act correctly (nut moves away from the handwheel to clamp). BTW, I'm in Kennesaw, so close by Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Countryside Workshop Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 That's awesome, I wish I could do that because I don't want to drop the bones on bench crafted vise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cochese Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Good stuff, Aaron! I might order some nuts from surpluscenter.com if my singlepointing doesn't go well. My only complaint is that it appears all their nuts are right-hand, and the tail vise really needs to be left hand to act correctly (nut moves away from the handwheel to clamp). BTW, I'm in Kennesaw, so close by Wow, you are real close. My mailing address is Kennesaw. Aaron, is your blog still an ongoing endeavor? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan S Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 you could probably go down to 3/4" or even 1/2" screw if you really wanted to, because the screw is under tension while in use. Thus short of a 3 foot cheater bar or an impact gun, you are unlikely to hurt it. The only benefit of the larger diameter screw, is the courser thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopnhack Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 I have toyed with the idea as well Ian! I don't have many metal working tools other than a grinder and stick welder. I will say that the unpolished wheel is a steel at $13, some flap wheels and I am sure it will be polished enough for shop use. I will share with you my source for acme threaded rod - Enco, they had a fair price last I looked and offer free shipping periodically. Keep us posted!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMarshall Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Wow, you are real close. My mailing address is Kennesaw. Aaron, is your blog still an ongoing endeavor? You guys in Kennesaw should come down for breakfast with the local Modern Woodworkers Association guys. We meet 2nd Saturdays of the month in Norcross, and we usually get 5-10 people. Info is here: http://www.modernwoodworkersassociation.com/2012/09/mwa-atlanta-monthly-breakfast.html Cochese, I have let the blog sit idle for too long. It was always just a "for fun" thing, and life gets in the way. We have had 2 little girls in the past couple of years, so you can imagine where that time goes these days. I have hopes of getting back to it though, and I'm building out a new shop after a recent move. I'm itching to get back to woodworking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imcmahon Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Can any of you guys give me some info on how the benchcrafted vises are set up at the handwheel/flange end of the screws? Are there bearings captured in those flanges, or does the screw ride directly on the flange on one side, and the handwheel ride directly on the flange on the other side? I'm thinking it could be as simple as this: But there might (should, really) be a bearing in there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imcmahon Posted February 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Made a bit of progress last night Bored the nut block through at 1-1/8", and 1-5/8" blind to 3/4" depth Milled a hex into the block and pressed a brass acme nut into it. Turned the end of the screw to 5/8" Picked up the center of the handwheel and drilled/reamed to 5/8" Perfect fit! I still need to cut the wagon plate down to width, drill it for the nut block attach screws, drill and tap the nut block, make a flange, and drill the handwheel/screw for a cross pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Wow! Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopnhack Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 That's looking great Ian. Is that the 5" diameter wheel? Are you planning on adding a handle to the rim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imcmahon Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Yeah, it's 5". There's a pad to drill to add a handle, and I likely will do so. I don't have a wood lathe, just three metal lathes, so I'm not sure what to do about a handle just yet I picked up an 8" unfinished iron wheel and a right hand thread 1" acme screw and nut from mcmaster the other day as well, so I should have most everything I need to do the leg vise also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopnhack Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Yeah, it's 5". There's a pad to drill to add a handle, and I likely will do so. I don't have a wood lathe, just three metal lathes, so I'm not sure what to do about a handle just yet I picked up an 8" unfinished iron wheel and a right hand thread 1" acme screw and nut from mcmaster the other day as well, so I should have most everything I need to do the leg vise also. Just make an octagon out of square stock and knock the edges of with sandpaper. Doesn't have to be round ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post imcmahon Posted February 11, 2014 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Wagon vise is complete! It's not as beautiful as the benchcrafted offering, but it's quite functional. Much like my poorly constructed yellow pine split-top: not the prettiest thing out there, but hopefully it'll serve well 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Awesome work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 I think that's pretty darn cool that you can do your own metalwork alongside woodworking in the shop, I wish I was that handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 +1, Freddie. That is fantastic! Metalwork is a can of worms I have neither the space nor the desire to open, but it sure is cool. My only complaint: I think I would have inlaid the plate for the hand wheel into the end cap. I know the plans don't call for that, but the BC ones are a pretty diamond shape...the rectangle looks a bit clunky. But I'm being super picky, as usual. Great job, man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopnhack Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 Beautiful Ian! Really just is perfect, great job on all! Yellow pine is a great wood for a worktop IMHO - its softer than many of the woods you will work so the top will dent and not your project, a good quality!! Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imcmahon Posted February 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 +1, Freddie. That is fantastic! Metalwork is a can of worms I have neither the space nor the desire to open, but it sure is cool. My only complaint: I think I would have inlaid the plate for the hand wheel into the end cap. I know the plans don't call for that, but the BC ones are a pretty diamond shape...the rectangle looks a bit clunky. But I'm being super picky, as usual. Great job, man! I considered it; I even thought about that when I was watching Marc install his benchcrafted hardware. I'm not locked out of doing it in the near future, I'll just need to shorten the screw on the far end by a quarter inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imcmahon Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 Last night I turned the leg vise screw and bored the handwheel. My leg chop is made, and I'm about to start on the parallel guide. I'm trying to find something I can use to make the roller brackets. We're all iced in here in Atlanta, and I can't leave the house, so I'm hoping I can find something lying around that I can use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 Make the criss-cross. Easy peasy for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imcmahon Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 I might be able to, but I'd want to lay hands on one or at least see a good drawing. I don't have a good enough idea of how it works! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imcmahon Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Greasy but functional! Metalshop and Woodshop don't play nice with each other. It's hard to keep the greasy side greasy and the dusty side dusty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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