Feedback on New Table Saw


JoshC1501

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I have posted several times about the challenges I have had getting my used Delta tablesaw aligned and cutting accurately.  

 

I have had enough, figure I think can sell it for close to what I have in it.  I had been holding out for a PM or Sawstop, but since I need to pull the trigger a little sooner than expected, going to have to get something less expensive.  The reality is, that considering what I do it will be more than adequate.  

 

So I am looking at several of the Grizzly options in the $1300-$1600 range.  The one I have kind of locked onto is the G0690.  I was also looking at the G1023RLW with the router table attached.  

 

Anyway, feedback on any of the Grizzly saws would be appreciated.  Any other brands I should be looking at?  

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Hey Josh, check the South Bend Craigslist. You can usually find a used Unisaw for around $600.00 You should be able to fully rehab for less than your budget. The difficulty is that driving to inspect would be prohibitive from your location. (West of Indy?) There are lots of cabinet and door shops for the RV industry up here that went out in the downturn. You likely would want to budget new bearings etc but could make out well enough.

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Hey Josh, check the South Bend Craigslist. You can usually find a used Unisaw for around $600.00 You should be able to fully rehab for less than your budget. The difficulty is that driving to inspect would be prohibitive from your location. (West of Indy?) There are lots of cabinet and door shops for the RV industry up here that went out in the downturn. You likely would want to budget new bearings etc but could make out well enough.

Thanks for the info.  That is 2-3 hours from me, very do able but hard to walk away once you drive that far.

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Unlike Freddie, I'm very happy with my 0690.  He's pissed that the cast iron "scratches easily."  Boo hoo.  LOL.  The fence is crap but I have no complaints about the rest.

 

You're ready to buy a new saw...why would you even consider anything but a 3HP?  Buy a tool once...you're already on number two. :)

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Unlike Freddie, I'm very happy with my 0690.  He's pissed that the cast iron "scratches easily."  Boo hoo.  LOL.  The fence is crap but I have no complaints about the rest.

 

You're ready to buy a new saw...why would you even consider anything but a 3HP?  Buy a tool once...you're already on number two. :)

Im not unhappy Eric, i like the saw just fine. One day I do plan to upgrade, whatever that means. :)

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grab the vsct fence, I added it and I love it. Now i have no complaints whatsoever with the saw. The old fence got me by while it lasted though. I used it to do those long miters on the teak cabinets, and you couldn't squeeze a fart through those things. Point is, the saw performs to every extent that i need it to. My problem is Im going to add the PM hcm to my shop soon and my ocd will kick in hardcore. See where I'm going with this?

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HCM?  Dude, that's an obsolete tool.  Domino baby.  Domino.

Yea, so is woodworking, ikea baby!

 

I am inspired by Matt Wolfes work, and I want to use integral mortise and tenons in my work. I made 28 of them on my cradle build, with a forstner bit in a drill press then chisels. Trust me, I would love to have a domino, but I wouldn't want to use it for everything.

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One more question on HP.  What kind of difference is noticeable between 1 3/4hp and 3hp?  What can't the 1 3/4 do the 3 can?

 

I am using an old unisaw from 1950 with a 1hp motor. It gets done everything I need out of it ripping 1.5" oak in one pass without bogging down. Assuming you don't need to go to 3phase, then a 3hp motor is presumably better, but I suspect you would be able to do most things with a 1.75hp motor without trouble. 

 

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I watched an old unisaw resto and the guy briefly talked about the low hp motor. He said it would perform as good as the higher hp motors today. I guess that means that "HP" really does vary between companies, time periods, and market claims. I'm not sure if all the companies claims today are side by side comparison. I'm sure there is fluctuation. As for 1 3/4 and 3 hp, the main difference is you can wire the 1 3/4 for 110 or 220. If you are set up for 110 only, then you are kinda stuck to one choice. If you have 220, I say go for the 3hp, it will be more than you will likely ever need. For any demanding cuts your saw won't bog down. 

 

Another good question to ask is are the trunnions in the 1 3/4 saw the same as the 3hp, or are they lighter duty? If they are lighter duty, then just spring for the 3hp.

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Josh,

Consider a SawStop contractor saw with the cast iron wing upgrade and 36" t glide fence upgrade. I'd put this setup against any cabinet saw out there. These things r built like tanks but in a Ferrari factory. I believe this configuration is around $1800. Of course, best of all, you get the safety advantage.

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Yea, so is woodworking, ikea baby!

 

I'm trying to think of what woodworking and IKEA have in common?  Definitely not wood. :)

 

The Domino does exactly the same thing as a HCM, only faster and cleaner, no sharpening of chisels, no tenons to make, and takes up no space in the shop...something I know is a factor for you as it is for me.  Dominoes are just as structurally acceptable as integral tenons and it's a far more versatile tool.  And when a project does call for integral tenons, there's always the router to make the mortises.  Just sayin'.

 

For the longest time I thought I wanted a HCM and had always planned to buy one.  Then one day I just realized it doesn't do anything I can't already do without it.  I'm glad I did because I have neither the throwaway funds nor the space for one.

 

Sorry OP for the hijack...

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One more question on HP.  What kind of difference is noticeable between 1 3/4hp and 3hp?  What can't the 1 3/4 do the 3 can?

 

IMO, in this price range it's tough to beat the amount of saw you get for the price with a G1023RL (or RLW) or G0690...especially for a hobbyist.  They're a full step up in class and duty rating from a hybrid or contactor saw.  The G1023"R" is a more updated design with the threaded vertical elevation mechanism that has dovetail ways, which gives it excellent precision.  It also has a more efficient a serpentine drive belt system, as well as the well proven Shop Fox Classic fence.  The G1023R series is made in Taiwan vs China.  Both saws have been very successful.

 

The jump in horsepower is pretty noticeable....nearly 50% increase.  You'll notice it from the moment you turn it on before you've even cut anything.  It should allow you to dictate the feed rate vs waiting on the saw.  It'll also be less fussy about blade choice and alignment.  The fact that the motor labors less should help it last longer too.  The HP increase is only one aspect that you'll notice....just about every other aspect an operator interfaces with will be noticeable too.  The sheer mass and heft is noticeable, and the mechanisms are more precise.  The hand wheels will work more smoothly and easier, and things simply tend to work as they should.  My GI contractor saw and 22124 hybrid were capable of cutting everything I needed, but my Shop Fox 3hp cab saw does also, but with a lot less effort.  It's just more of a pleasure to use. 

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Josh I too am looking at getting a new saw. Thanks to one of our forum members I got a hands on with a G1023RLW 5hp model. As he said go Big or go home lol. I think its is a very nice saw for the money and it`s only $100 more for the 5hp over the 3hp.The 1023 has a Monster trunion that rides in dovetails and has an assist. The fence, well ok it`s Not a Biesemeyer but it works. The table top is nice although perhaps not as nice as a Powermatic. Overall it`s a very nice saw, smooth, quiet, powerful. For the money it`s Hard to beat. JMHO.

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Yea, so is woodworking, ikea baby!

 

I am inspired by Matt Wolfes work, and I want to use integral mortise and tenons in my work. I made 28 of them on my cradle build, with a forstner bit in a drill press then chisels. Trust me, I would love to have a domino, but I wouldn't want to use it for everything.

 

I use the Domino in everything from making jigs, shot cabinets to a lot of finished work. It just simply saves times and allows for a suppior fit and finish.

 

 

Thanks for the info.  That is 2-3 hours from me, very do able but hard to walk away once you drive that far.

I bought a motorcycle because of that. Drove down to Houston to look at the bike and brought it back. Bad mistake. If it had been local, I would have slept on it. Turned out the head had been R&R'ed under warrenty and the new? head gasket was leaking, and the bike started to backfire badly after about 200 miles.

 

Luckily some guy in a parking lot ran over it and it was fully covered under his insurance, so I did not have to sell it  :-)

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As far as the saw, if I had to do it all over again, I would get the SawStop contractor saw, with 52" fence, and build a full length cabinet underneath for storage

 

lg76374.jpg

 

I like the above setup, but I would not build in the router on the RS of the fence, I would have larger shelves to store sleds.

 

When I first moved to TX I bought a Jet contractors saw, and was reasonably happy with it, lived in an apartment with an over sized  1 car garage, so it worked. Almost tipped it over once or twice trying to cut plywood, not good. But the top warped, yup, noticeably, by about 1/8" in the center. and it would cause small piece to bind against the fence, which caused me to care more about the wood than my finger. Luckily all I have to show for that is a small scar and a slightly jacked up nail bed.

 

So, with that saw to never, ever be plugged in again, I bought a Unisaw right before the current generation was rumored about, and before the Saw Stop was really available. And now I just don't have the heart to take the loss and change.

 

With that said, even with a Festtool TS, as long as I have the space, I will never not have a good size top, 52" fence, and a good outfeed table.

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When I was in the market for a TS, I looked at both the 0690 and the 1023. The 1023 was on sale and the price difference was about $100. The 690 was I think 3 Hp and the 1023 is 5 HP. I can't imagine cutting something where I would need 5 HP but heck, there was really no price difference in my mind so I got the 1023. It's a beast and cuts like butta with a full kerf or thin kerf. It will spin a full stack of 8" dados like they're not even there. I can't speak to the fence as I never installed it - I just transferred my Incra TSLS to the new saw. It took a little modification but was easily done. I've been nothing but satisfied but I also hear that from people who own the 0690. If the 1023 weren't on sale, I probably would have gotten the 0690.

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When I was in the market for a TS, I looked at both the 0690 and the 1023. The 1023 was on sale and the price difference was about $100. The 690 was I think 3 Hp and the 1023 is 5 HP. I can't imagine cutting something where I would need 5 HP but heck, there was really no price difference in my mind so I got the 1023. It's a beast and cuts like butta with a full kerf or thin kerf. It will spin a full stack of 8" dados like they're not even there. I can't speak to the fence as I never installed it - I just transferred my Incra TSLS to the new saw. It took a little modification but was easily done. I've been nothing but satisfied but I also hear that from people who own the 0690. If the 1023 weren't on sale, I probably would have gotten the 0690.

 

Besides color and the 5hp option, what are the differences between the 0690 and 1023, I don't see much?  Thanks for the input, I saw that 5hp option in the Grizzly catalog.  If I go with the 1023, I will probably go that route.  

 

As far as the saw, if I had to do it all over again, I would get the SawStop contractor saw, with 52" fence, and build a full length cabinet underneath for storage

 

lg76374.jpg

 

I like the above setup, but I would not build in the router on the RS of the fence, I would have larger shelves to store sleds.

 

When I first moved to TX I bought a Jet contractors saw, and was reasonably happy with it, lived in an apartment with an over sized  1 car garage, so it worked. Almost tipped it over once or twice trying to cut plywood, not good. But the top warped, yup, noticeably, by about 1/8" in the center. and it would cause small piece to bind against the fence, which caused me to care more about the wood than my finger. Luckily all I have to show for that is a small scar and a slightly jacked up nail bed.

 

So, with that saw to never, ever be plugged in again, I bought a Unisaw right before the current generation was rumored about, and before the Saw Stop was really available. And now I just don't have the heart to take the loss and change.

 

With that said, even with a Festtool TS, as long as I have the space, I will never not have a good size top, 52" fence, and a good outfeed table.

 

You are saying you would build a similar setup if you had to do it again?  That is nice.  I really don't want to do a contractor saw, but then again I don't have any experience with the Sawstop contractor saw.  Anyone have one?  How is it?   

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