YAYARB: Yet another yet another Roubo bench


Warren Hein

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Just started my build this week. Some items, like the Emmert pattern maker vise, I've held onto for over 10 years. Finally I've cleared enough space out of the garage to add a proper tablesaw and start building my bench to replace my woefully inadequate workmate.

The wood: 170 bf of hard maple.

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First leg glue up.

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Need to justify why I need a dust collector.

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If anyone has any recommendations on the best method of cleaning up the patternmaker vise, I'd appreciate the suggestion.  I know some people have used electrolysis to clean up smaller objects, but I don't have or want to build a tank for the purpose.  I was thinking of taking it to get steam cleaned.  My attempts to get the crud off with a wire brush wheel on my drill got some stuff off, but I don't want to be spending several weeks cleaning it up, as I'd rather be building the bench.  I'll post up some better pictures of the vise later.

 

The bench design comes from Benchcrafted, and I'll be using their tail vise on my bench, with the Emmert vise in the place of the leg vise.

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Steam might liquify some of the grease but it will not cut it. Rust is more than just a moisture issue. It is an oxygen issue and as such it's better to think of it as oxidation. Don't leave the vise wet and open to air. The faster you dry the material and then treat it with a preventative the better. There are some coatings like Boeshield (another escapes my brain at the moment) that are gaining attention right now that provide decent oxidation protection without needing to be renewed as often as machine oils.

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That may be an option once most of the stuff is off. Is steam cleaning an option? I don't want to introduce rust so I'd probably shoot it with something to protect it afterwards. I don't think WD40 would be good, as it would attract more sawdust to stick to it.

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Steam is a great option for removing grease provided you get it dried and protected immediately after it cools down.

 

Engine cleaner (I think it's called "Gunk") and high pressure water will do a nice job as well.  Again, dry and protect immediately when finished.

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Do know any local auto garages well? Very useful relationship to build for woodworkers -- bearings pulled, gears/pulleys pulled, access to a powered parts washer, etc... For about $5, I'll bet they would put in their parts washer for you:

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00026765/k-G1727546?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=COiD4L7Z4LwCFcY7OgodfwEA3A

 

Then dunk it in some WB surface rust remover and you're going to look like new:

http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-5-Gallon-P35C1.aspx?UserID=31634168&SessionID=3y6ZKVk5Ye48c8vxIrfG

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  • 3 weeks later...

Coming along nicely! I mis-cut the mortices on a part for my Rolling Library Stair project and had to fill them and recut. We all make mistakes , fixing them where most folks won't notice is the trick.

 

Any chance of a pic of that?   ;)

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Decided to take the emmert vise apart tonight and work on cleaning it up. The tilt cam hub has a broken handle and I've got a replacement coming as well as the tilt mechanism. Going to try soaking the broken piece overnight in vinegar and water and see what comes out of it. No major rust flakes. The worst is behind the dogs on one side.

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I took some caster frames to a local powder coating shop. They blasted them and put on a tough finish and then baked it on. You would need to make sure that moving parts are not finished anywhere that the finish thickness would interfere. But it sure would look nice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I went ahead and took it to a metal shop, where they bead-blasted it and gave it a nice powder coating.  It was pricey, but the results are outstanding.  Going to lubricate and reassemble it tonight and make sure everything still fits and moves where necessary.  Too bad I can't mount it yet to anything.  Guess I need to get started on the top.

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