Working with Plywood


DavidC

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I have a few sheets of warped 3/4 Birch ply laying around and was wondering if they were worth anything more that firewood.  I've been considering installing a French Cleat system for wall storage and was wondering how to safely cut these sheets on my table saw.  Any ideas anyone?

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Lets just say beyond use on any project - which is why I figured they'd be good for cleats (bolted to wall).  I'm figuring I've got about a 1 in bow in them, in the middle. 

 

I thought about attaching something straight to them to "pull" out the bow - like a jointed 2x4 - and maybe it will straighten it out enough to keep it from kicking back in the table saw.

 

Cutting them down with circ saw first is a good option though...

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Particle Board - why are all the good screen names used? 

 

Anyway.  I'm using a "hybrid" saw.  It's the Ridgid R4512.  Basically a shop saw - not job site.

 

The size or outfeed is not my concern.  I've recently watched Marc's vid on shop safety (love it when the gods come down to our level  :D ) and am a bit concerned about kickback.  I've experienced it a few times on cutting very long boards (like 14 footers) with an inexperienced helper on the outfeed side - don't want to experience that again.

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a 1" bow over 5 ft doesn't seem like that much to me. i would cut the strips with the outside of the bow facing the table saw and the bow parallel to your fence, so you can grip the back edge of your sheet. you can raise the blade high enough that you won't need to push your piece down at the end. a decent out feed table will help eliminate any variables from shop helpers ;)

 

if you decide to break it down with a circ saw first, clamp the bow down in the center with cauls running across/ near your cut. make several scoring cuts first to release the tension in the board or you could get kickback on the circ saw if you try to cut it perpendicular to the bow. 

 

do you still have the splitter that came with the rigid saw? that will greatly reduce your kickback. 

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spencer_J - yes, absolutely plan on using the splitter AND the kickback claws.  It's only 48"-ish long.  good advice on running it cup up and parallel to the blade.  think I'm going to give that a try this weekend. (hopefully I won't be reporting back from the ER)

 

I'm probably overthinking this - but with the price of lumber now days...I have a hard time throwing such a piece away.  although I'd never use it for a project - it's probably perfect for the shop French cleat system.

 

I'll likely cut it down into more manageable sizes before cutting 45* angles.

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Have you tried weighing them down ??

If you raise the two ends and put a heavy weight or clamp in the middle so that it forces the bow in the opposite direction it might pull the warp out if your board ... Just check it every day.

Like spencer said 1" in 5' doesn't seem like that much and a circular saw would ride over the outside of the curve easily, then just pin / screw / clamp your strips down to a flat surface and cut your bevel

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I'll likely cut it down into more manageable sizes before cutting 45* angles.

i'd recommend doing so. if there is still a bow when you're ready to cut the bevel, you can make your screw holes (for the wall) and screw it down to a sacrificial straight edge to hold the baltic birch parallel to your table saw top while you make the bevel. 

 

baltic birch is pricy, you can make many nice things out of it :)

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