Mahogany Library Rolling Staircase


wdwerker

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A long time client built a new home with a big library . (2) 18' long rows of 12 ft tall bookcases and a grand piano in the middle of the room that made using the usual rolling ladder un-feasible .

She found a picture of a wooden rolling staircase and I worked up a seven step proposal that would let her reach the top shelves.

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I built a jig to route the dados to house the stair treads.

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Jig was pretty simple to build once I figured it out. Space the guides apart with an actual tread, brad nailed one down and add a couple screws then clamp across and attach the other one. Flip the jig and repeat on the other side but make sure the tread spacer is absolutely square.

I like to build unusual projects but I hate doing scale drawings. When you draw full size you can visualize the joinery and solve problems as you draw. I added the green tape so I could send a picture to the client. Now I am measuring part sizes straight off the drawing. A few minutes with a sander and I have a clean sheet of 1/4" MDF for the next drawing.

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Started in on the curves that are really going to make the Staircase a piece of furniture today. Loads of layout work to place the domino 8 mm tenons to carry the load.

Bandsaw out the curve after cutting the critical angles and morticing out for all the dominos then a quick pass on the osselating belt sander and I am ready for glue up.

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I made some progress today. Cleaned up the angled joints and did a lot of little stuff that will make progress easier next week.

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You can see the screw hole that held the clamping Blokkz in place to pull the angled joints tight. It will be covered by the next joint.

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Got the treads grooved to improve traction. Just kerfed them on the table saw with the blade up 1/8". Set the fence at 11/16 and ripped from both edges add another 11/16 and repeat.......

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Rounded over the front edges with a1/8" radius bit and made sure not to ruin the tight fit into the stringers.

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My client didn't want to see bolts or screw heads on the outside of the stair stringers. So I came up with some blocking to screw under each tread. 1 1/8" Square scrap strips of mahogany cut, drilled and rounded over should do the job and not be very noticeable.

I am going to put a bit of glue in the center and use 2" screws with oversized holes to allow a bit of flexibility for wood movement.

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Comments and input are quite welcome ! I am winging it on this project. I took measurements off of a metal rolling ladder like the ones in the " big box" stores and a few details from a large commercial wooden stepladder to determine the basic geometry. Kinda building the stairs and then building the framework and base off of that with the handrails last. Trying to stay a few steps ahead in plotting out the path and joinery so I don't paint myself into a corner.

Using some heavy duty commercial locking casters that lock the swivel and wheel . Rated at 250 lbs each but they are not very attractive so I am sending them out to be powder coated black. I have spray painted the same caster before and they get nicks and scratches so fast. Has anyone ever had stuff powder coated before? I had to remove a plastic lever , the guy said they bake the finish at 400 degrees of several hours. Got some bolts to put the levers back on, they were riveted so I drilled them out.

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Only comment I have other than "damn nice work, Steve," is I wonder if those step supports are necessary?  Surely can't hurt, but you don't think the dadoes would be adequate?  I know it's too late now since the holes are drilled...just curious about the rationale behind it.

 

It's looking great!

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Dados are 5/16 deep and I did not want to rely on glue alone to hold the treads in. If age or abuse gets the tread a bit loose the blocking becomes a back up to prevent a failure. You usually see a wooden ladder have a washer and tensioning bolt under each tread to keep the tread tight into the dado. Client didn't want to see all the fasteners at each tread going up the side of the stairs, so I put the blocking underneath. I recommended the black anti slip tape for each tread , but the client wants to see if the grooves will provide enough traction and look better.

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