wdwerker Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 A long time client built a new home with a big library . (2) 18' long rows of 12 ft tall bookcases and a grand piano in the middle of the room that made using the usual rolling ladder un-feasible . She found a picture of a wooden rolling staircase and I worked up a seven step proposal that would let her reach the top shelves. I built a jig to route the dados to house the stair treads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stahlee Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Wow, how tall is that going to be? That top step looks close to five and a half feet. Should be pretty awesome for the room! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Very cool project! I look forward to seeing this one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Top step is 66 1/2" off the floor. Top of the railing is 95" high. She is a little lady so we measured her max comfortable reach and designed the height to let her reach the top shelves with ease. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 The dado jig had to be reversible to cut both sides at the 32 1/2 degree angle. You can see the guides on both sides of the jig. I just used some scrap Baltic birch drawer sides and some 5/4 poplar to build it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 The staircase fit together very nicely. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I am quite happy with the fit of the treads into the staircase . Routed the exposed edges and sanded a bit one tap and it slid in place. I actually expected to spend some time getting them in place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 That is a wicked cool project Steve! Looking forward to seeing the progress . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer_J Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 i really dig your jig! also, the curves on the handrails are perfect! good idea on the life size mock up too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Awesome. And it looks like you're using real mahogany, yeah? Great work so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Nice work Steve. Looking forward to seeing the finished project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Jig was pretty simple to build once I figured it out. Space the guides apart with an actual tread, brad nailed one down and add a couple screws then clamp across and attach the other one. Flip the jig and repeat on the other side but make sure the tread spacer is absolutely square. I like to build unusual projects but I hate doing scale drawings. When you draw full size you can visualize the joinery and solve problems as you draw. I added the green tape so I could send a picture to the client. Now I am measuring part sizes straight off the drawing. A few minutes with a sander and I have a clean sheet of 1/4" MDF for the next drawing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Started in on the curves that are really going to make the Staircase a piece of furniture today. Loads of layout work to place the domino 8 mm tenons to carry the load. Bandsaw out the curve after cutting the critical angles and morticing out for all the dominos then a quick pass on the osselating belt sander and I am ready for glue up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Wow! That's not going anywhere! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 After a dry fit I glued them up to the main staircase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Sweet build steve, looking forward to more pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikefoolery Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 For us novices, how do you clamp two pieces on that angle? -josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikefoolery Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Neat. Otherwise without that procuct, I guess somehow clamping or attaching a specific shaped peice of wood to allow a solid clamping surface. -josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 I made some progress today. Cleaned up the angled joints and did a lot of little stuff that will make progress easier next week. You can see the screw hole that held the clamping Blokkz in place to pull the angled joints tight. It will be covered by the next joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Got the treads grooved to improve traction. Just kerfed them on the table saw with the blade up 1/8". Set the fence at 11/16 and ripped from both edges add another 11/16 and repeat....... Rounded over the front edges with a1/8" radius bit and made sure not to ruin the tight fit into the stringers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 My client didn't want to see bolts or screw heads on the outside of the stair stringers. So I came up with some blocking to screw under each tread. 1 1/8" Square scrap strips of mahogany cut, drilled and rounded over should do the job and not be very noticeable. I am going to put a bit of glue in the center and use 2" screws with oversized holes to allow a bit of flexibility for wood movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Comments and input are quite welcome ! I am winging it on this project. I took measurements off of a metal rolling ladder like the ones in the " big box" stores and a few details from a large commercial wooden stepladder to determine the basic geometry. Kinda building the stairs and then building the framework and base off of that with the handrails last. Trying to stay a few steps ahead in plotting out the path and joinery so I don't paint myself into a corner. Using some heavy duty commercial locking casters that lock the swivel and wheel . Rated at 250 lbs each but they are not very attractive so I am sending them out to be powder coated black. I have spray painted the same caster before and they get nicks and scratches so fast. Has anyone ever had stuff powder coated before? I had to remove a plastic lever , the guy said they bake the finish at 400 degrees of several hours. Got some bolts to put the levers back on, they were riveted so I drilled them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Only comment I have other than "damn nice work, Steve," is I wonder if those step supports are necessary? Surely can't hurt, but you don't think the dadoes would be adequate? I know it's too late now since the holes are drilled...just curious about the rationale behind it. It's looking great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Dados are 5/16 deep and I did not want to rely on glue alone to hold the treads in. If age or abuse gets the tread a bit loose the blocking becomes a back up to prevent a failure. You usually see a wooden ladder have a washer and tensioning bolt under each tread to keep the tread tight into the dado. Client didn't want to see all the fasteners at each tread going up the side of the stairs, so I put the blocking underneath. I recommended the black anti slip tape for each tread , but the client wants to see if the grooves will provide enough traction and look better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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