used jack plane - flatten the iron back, or replace ir?


nod

Recommended Posts

I picked up a Stanley no 5 off ebay a couple weeks ago. Haven't had much time to do anything to it, or with it. But I did a quick assessment and I see that the iron back is definitely NOT flat. Checked chip breaker, and it's flat. Now, my question is, do I spend a day trying to flatten the bugger, or just buy a replacement blade? 

 

I watched a RenaiWW vid about some used jack planes, and just letting em do their thing with a sharp blade. He didn't fuss with flattening the frog, sanding this and that and the other. Just let it rip for the rough work. I had every plan to try that as well, but everything I've read and heard from you all is that the iron back MUST.BE.FLAT. I don't have a dia-flat (yet). I've tried a bit with some sand paper on granite, but seems like it will take days to get done. I've got water stones for sharpening my knives, but know they are not dead flat for a use like this. I realize a dia-something is in my near future. BUT, what suggest you oh benevolent and wise ones? buy a diamond plate and get to flattening? or buy a new blade? or something else?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried flattening just the first half inch or so on the granite block with some 80 grit? How far do you get after 5 minutes?

 

From personal experience I would say it takes significantly longer to flatten the sole of a plane than flatten the back of the iron.

I've tried. and it's not very far. There seems to be some significant convex to the blade back. I'll try and snap a pic if I can to post. I don't have any feeler gauges, so not sure how bad is bad. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

McQ, not sure how much I'll need to take off to get this sucker flat. Looks like a bit, eh?

 

Wow! Used on a very very hollow sharpening medium! I think I'd buy a new blade or find one secondhand.

Kind of negates the great deal I got. Or at least thought I got. oh well, rather get this baby working!

 

Hock? Veritas? other?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't think that way. If this is the worst part of your user, look for another cheap user. Try to wait for one that is not collect able or even particularly useful. Look for a non-pitted iron but damaged tote and knob or a cracked casting. Even look for the cheap units with stamped steel frogs. You may even find a useful iron on EBay without needing to buy a whole plane. You don't need to jump all the way to a boutique iron. Having said this, I do not think you will regret a new iron if you invest in one.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is this going to be set for coarse or fine work?  If coarse work then just get a modern Stanley iron off of Amazon or a $2 buck bros iron from Home Depot.  Your tolerances don't need to be tight for a scrub or fore plane.

Thanks guys, I hadn't really thought of just looking for another used setup. Mainly since I am worried I'll end up with the same result. I have a "no4" (not really, it's one of their 80's models), that has a decent iron with some camber already in it. I've done some work to flatten it, but it's not quite there yet. Perhaps I'll just work on that some more and put it to use in the no5. I'll have to double check, but it seems like the irons are similar in size. 

 

Gilgaron, I think it'll be for rough work to start. From what I understand, I don't need to sweat the setup too much. As long as the iron is flat and sharp, yeah?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I missing something or is the blade actually bent? If so grab three dowels, two for the concave edges, and one centered on the other convex side, then squeeze it a bit in the vice. Might work. otherwise you'll be better off with a new blade - it'll cost less than the sandpaper you'll need to flatten the thing.

 

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I missing something or is the blade actually bent? If so grab three dowels, two for the concave edges, and one centered on the other convex side, then squeeze it a bit in the vice. Might work. otherwise you'll be better off with a new blade - it'll cost less than the sandpaper you'll need to flatten the thing.

 

John

John, the whole thing is pretty uniformly convex/concave (depending on your reference to top or bottom). I don't have a large vise to apply enough pressure I think, but worth a try. If that doesn't work, to the bench sander it goes!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

update. smacked it a few times with a hammer. Ground it a little on the sander. Getting close. I think when my DMT shows up, it might clean up ok with some more elbow grease. still haven't ruled out a new upgrade blade, but from what I'm learning, having a couple blade options for a jack isn't a bad idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was just reading one of the old Fine Woodworking books where they address this problem. The suggestion was place it convex side up on an anvil and use a large dowel and mallet to give it a few whacks.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2

Now you tell me! D'oh!  :wacko:  at first I just hit it direct with the hammer. and though, hmmm, this isn't so smart is it? So I placed a small piece of mdf i had over it and took a few wacks. Definitely helped. it's mostly flat at this point. mostly. They I hit it on the belt/disc to get it uniform. NOw it's much less pronounced, but of course not dead flat. DMT extra course is arriving this week. I'll spend some time working the back on that and see if we get there. 

 

thanks everyone for the input. I'll post up some new pics later in the week once i get time on the new stone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it is pretty close to flat now you could always sharpen it before putting more work into flattening it and see how it does, since this is for rough work. 

 

Are you going to radius the blade or leave it flat?  If you put a radius on it, Lie Nielsen has some good videos on youtube for sharpening scrub plane irons that will show you the technique, and I really doubt a slight curvature is going to hurt anything.  Not being flat would be a problem for jig sharpening, but shouldn't be a big deal for freehand.  Look on youtube for Paul Sellers freehand sharpening for my favorite way. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 50 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    31.2k
    Total Topics
    421.8k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    23,759
    Total Members
    3,644
    Most Online
    R Parekh
    Newest Member
    R Parekh
    Joined