Jointer Planes?


RJsumthn

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I am looking at getting a jointer plane but am not sure which one I should get. It basically come down to who makes the better plane, Veritas, Lie-Nielsen, or Woodriver? Veritas only has the low angle jointer. Is a low angle jointer really any better than the standard one? With Lie-Nielsen what are the advantages of the No 8 compared to the No 7?

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I am looking at getting a jointer plane but am not sure which one I should get. It basically come down to who makes the better plane, Veritas, Lie-Nielsen, or Woodriver? Veritas only has the low angle jointer. Is a low angle jointer really any better than the standard one? With Lie-Nielsen what are the advantages of the No 8 compared to the No 7?

Why is woodriver in the same sentence or category as lie nielsen or veritas? Are ya mad?  :blink:

 

I own a no.8 from LN, and I chose it over the 7 purely based on its mass. At 2 inches longer and a bit wider, the surface area compared to the 7 is greatly expanded. (Anybody with a no7 will say that doesn't matter, and thats just because they wanted to save $50  :P )

 

The no7 does have the option to change the frog to york or middle pitch, the no8 does not have that option. But, you can always have a spare blade on hand with a back bevel, that is my next plan for my no.8.

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Hi RJ,

 

Sounds silly, but what are you going to use it for? If it's shooting long edges they will all work great, it's the price that will be main driver. If your going to use it for stock prep a vintage model could be worth a look. They are lighter and therefore less tiring if you're doing a lot of work. 

I have vintage and one UK version on the WR and I have no issue with them.

The advantage of the #8 is the longer sole allows easier shooting of very long edges or truing of very wide boards. If you're projects are small in nature you might be able to get by with just a #5

I have a #7 and would not want to be without it, however others are less convinced. Alan Peters pretty much only used a #7 Record so they can't be all bad!

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I have the low angle Veritas with the regular blade (37°) and find it fine. You can have a selection of blades to get up to York or higher pitches if you find that the going gets a little tough with figured timbers. There is also the option of the magnetic jointer fence (that fits some more bevel up Veritas planes) to keep things square. I have that too and it's very useful although not essential (a bit like training wheels).

 

I'm a big LN fan so I looked at the LN #7 and #8 before I bought the Veritas. The #8 was in cast iron only and too heavy (I like the LN bronze ones) and #7 wasn't in stock when I needed it (in a hurry) otherwise I would have bought that. Hence why I bought the cast iron Veritas.

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Freddie, woodriver is in the sentence because of it's price point and I have heard good things about them especially if you put a better iron and chip breaker on them. 

 

I plan on using it for stock prep mainly. I don't have a power jointer and don't plan on getting one until I get 220 in the shop, which will probably be a while. So rather than getting a cheap 6" jointer that I will upgrade in the future, that money would be better spent on a good jointer plane that will be used my entire woodworking career. But I don't mind the heft of the plane since most of the hard work will be done with the no 5's.

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I used to have an LN #8 and an LV #7 BU.

I ended up sending my LN#8 to a good home as after a while I was only making excuses to use it.

 

With what I do I prefer the #7. (No Freddie, I wasn't trying to save $50.) I find the #7 easier to use and easier to nail perpendicularity with.

 

I also like LV better than LN. The handles on the LN's never feel like they fit my hand. The LV's nearly always "feel" better in my hands. I know, I know, it's blasphemy!

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You can't go wrong with either LN or LV.  If you get the BU then you'll have a more versatile tool, but know that you'll have to buy at least one extra blade so you can regrind it with a higher bevel angle...or just regrind the blade that comes with it...but doing that negates the versatility of the plane.  The standard blade that comes with the BU planes is good for end grain and nothing else...tearout city on long grain.  The BU will also have less mass to muscle through tough grain and long boards.  I personally think the best route is to buy a BU jack and a standard angle jointer/smoother...better yet, a dedicated shooter and standard angle jack/jointer/smoother...but that's me.

 

Wood River is a different category, I don't care what "other people" say. :)   I've used them side by side, and there' no comparison.  If you wanted to save money I'd recommend going vintage/restoration.

 

Getting tired of waiting for that Laguna yet?  I am.  I played with one at Rockler yesterday.  Nice saw.  Still don't understand why the fence rail sticks out so far in front. :unsure:

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"other people" love it :). FWIW my WR is nicer finished than the vintage stuff I have. Eric's tip on just having a LAJ is IMO very wise, standard bevel down with a cap iron is I think the post practical option for a jointer.

 

However, don't over think it too much, as you can see we all have very different thoughts, all of them will do a job.

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Just to throw my hat in this ring...

I like the low angle planes. I happen to have the LN planes. I have the jointer, smoother and the jack. I only say that because I like the consistent feel from each tool.

The low angle jack is the most versatile plane you will likely have. The low angle jointer is my favorite jointer I've used. And to be clear I could care less about saving a few bucks on any of my purchases, much less a plane I use on every project. I know Freddie was joking, but others may not. :)

I have to slightly disagree with Graham on the vintage vs WR. I have a nice old Stanley #5 and #6 that easily beat the WR planes I have seen and used.

As far as the LV debate, I just don't like the feel of them. Although it's been speculated that I have something against Canada ;) In truth I like some of their joinery planes, just not their bench planes.

I think that sums up my thoughts :) Go try a few out, and pick the one that feels good in your hand.

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I've got the LN 8 and love it. I love the weight. Get it going and it will plow through the tough stuff. I also like the ability to change the cut with just a flick of the finger.

 

My jack is an LN 62. I like it but don't love  it. I like the ability to change blades quickly. I don't like the relative pain of changing cut depth. 

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I have LN, WoodRiver, and old Bedrock planes and with very little fine tuning I honestly can't see a difference between the LN and WR, the one thing that is better about them than the Bedrocks they have a lot less backlash.

As for BU vs BD, mass equals ease. The heavier a plane the easier it plows through but on long intervals of use they can get tiring. I have an old Stanley #8 and I just love the thing because of its weight. I use a #6 as a small jointer when the job calls for it but my #8 gets 90% of the workload for leveling and 100%of the shooting.

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I make bigger projects like desks and chests of drawers. I have seen the woodwright episode where he talks about it. I have a couple jack planes each set differently, one with a heavy camber for heavy cuts and one with a slight camber for finer work. I am looking at the jointer plane primarily to get straight square edges. I can get faces flat enough with my jacks to run through the planer.

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