Dnorris1369 Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 I just bought first set of chisel from woodcraft the other day and bought work sharp 2000. What is the correct angle for sharpening Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 The "magic" happens at 30deg for most work. Shallower for light paring, steeper for whacking. Some have the whole bevel at the angle, others apply a small secondary bevel to a grind angle. Further reading on the forum here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mds2 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 25 degrees for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 25 for me as a general use angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Trip Posted April 21, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 ==>What is the correct angle for sharpening Depends on the steel, width of chisel, how its driven (pushed by hand, struck with a carving mallet or struck with a mortise mallet) and intended purpose... There are influences guiding bevel edge angle. For example: 1. If a chisel is struck with a mallet, a steeper the angle to put more steel behind the edge. The heavier the mallet, the higher the angle. 2. If a chisel is used for paring, a lower angle gives favorable 'angle of attack'. 3. If a chisel is very narrow, a steeper angle is used to reinforce the edge and prevent folding. 4. Some steels require a steeper angle to inhibit edge break-down (Ex, A2, D2, etc)... The recomended angles are for guidance only and far from definitive. As a general rule, final edges should end-up between 25d and 35d (Note: there are exceptions for fine dovetail, paring and heavy mortise chisels): Mortise chisels: closer to 35d. Some Japanese Mortisers are 40d. Bench chisels: between 25-30d (depends on type of steel). Many folks compromise and use 27d. Dovetail/paring: closer to 25d on a 25-30d scale (also depends on type of steel). Chisels 1/4" or narrower - closer to 30d Hard steels (A2, PM-V11, D2, etc) typically 30d or more -- some 35d+ Softer steels (O1, O2, etc) typically around 25d Notice I say 'closer', 'up to', 'typically', etc. Don't obsess about angle -- the wood doesn't care if you're chisel is 29d, 30d, 31d, etc. Close to a target OK and folks tend to do more harm than good trying to hit the 'perfect' angle. Just get close and don't worry about it. Again, the wood won't care. Many folks grind a primary bevel a few degrees lower and maintain a micro-bevel at the angle mentioned above. Secondary bevels are a personal choice. Some folks love them, some folks don't. I personally use them on most of my chisels... There are cases where you shouldn't use a secondary, but that discussion is out of scope. There is also one school of thought that teaches a tertiary bevel for optimum results.... But this is debated. I only use a tertiary angle on D2 chisels... As an example, a LN Bevel-edge chisel in A2 used as a general bench chisel and struck with a light mallet would normally have a primary grind of 25d-27d and a micro-bevel of 29d - 32d. While the general rule of thumb would be a 25d edge for bench chisels, the need for 30d is driven by the requirements of the A2 steel. If you purchase the same chisels for the same purpose but in O1, then a primary grind of 23d-25d would be fine and secondary bevel of 24d-27d would work well. If the same chisel set in O1 steel is not going to be struck with a mallet, then a final bevel of 23d-25d would work even better -- until you hit it with a mallet Remember, it's all a compromise... There is no 'perfect angle', just a range of angles that balance trade-offs... Also remember, don't obsess about how sharp you get chisels... The more a chisel is intended to be whacked with a mallet, the less sharp it needs to be. It's rather pointless to polish an English-pattern Mortiser on an #8000 grit stone... Hay, there are folks who 'sharpen' mortisers by rubbing them on the concrete floor... Good luck... 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 hhh, Could you be a little more precise? Good job, thanks for the info!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 My LN A2's are at 30 and my O1's are are 25. Both types of steel have a micro bevel probably of about 2 degrees (I don't stress about measuring angles of secondary's) I use A2 for general bench work and O1s for paring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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